Engine
#1
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From: Waterloo,
IL
Ok i have a tower hobbies .46 BB engine, i followed all directions in the manual and it just doesnt seem to want to startup and stay running, i put a little fuel into the carb to get it going it will run for 10-20 seconds great and just quit... ive tried everything not sure what to do? Any suggestions?
#2
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How far open are the needle valves ? At least 3-4 turns on the high speed and about 1 1/2 to 2 on the low speed.
Is the fuel fresh ?
What Prop ? What glow Plug ?
Is the fuel fresh ?
What Prop ? What glow Plug ?
#3
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From: Waterloo,
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11x6 i think not sure what the glow plug is it came standard with the tower hobbies trainer 40, not sure where the low is either, back to the manual, the fuel is kinda old... will order some new the high speed is 4 1/2 out.
#4
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From: Waterloo,
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May have found a solution/problem, i notices when i took the wing back off to haul it inside there was a bunch of fuel running everywhere, i had emptyed the tank.... the line either fell of or the tank is damaged, what can i do about this, will the tank just slide out, it looks like its up there pretty far?
#5
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If it will only start with a prime (fuel down the carb) it is seriously starving. I suspect that the low speed needle is fully closed, or very nearly so ( the assumption is that you are trying to start with the throttle at a fast idle setting).
Open the low speed jet ~ 1 1/2 turns from fully closed, then open the high speed ~ 2 1/2 turns from closed. That should at least get you on the map, but it will likely be rich. If it still will only start witha prime, open the low speed another 1/2 turn & try again.
The high-speed jet won't come into play in terms of engine tuning & performance until the throttle is ~ 1/2 open, but it is the conduit through which the fuel reaches the carb jet & the low speed needle. The low speed needle restricts & adjusts the flow from the fuel jet in the carb until the transition to high speed operation. The two adjustments are somewhat interactive for final tuning -- but for starting, if either needle is closed too much, you just won't get it going.
When it is running, go to full throttle & adjust the high speed jet until the engine peaks, then back it off until the engine starts to lose revs. Go to idle at let it run there for at least 30 sec -- if it just dies away & stops fairly quickly, it is still a bit lean on the low speed -- adjust it open in 1/4 turn increments until it stays running at idle.
On the other hand, if it starts to stumble & blubber at idle speed & eventually staggers to a stop, it is too rich. Close the low speed needle in 1/4 turn increments until it at least stays running.
That will let you keep it going for the break-in process --- follow your manual for that.
Open the low speed jet ~ 1 1/2 turns from fully closed, then open the high speed ~ 2 1/2 turns from closed. That should at least get you on the map, but it will likely be rich. If it still will only start witha prime, open the low speed another 1/2 turn & try again.
The high-speed jet won't come into play in terms of engine tuning & performance until the throttle is ~ 1/2 open, but it is the conduit through which the fuel reaches the carb jet & the low speed needle. The low speed needle restricts & adjusts the flow from the fuel jet in the carb until the transition to high speed operation. The two adjustments are somewhat interactive for final tuning -- but for starting, if either needle is closed too much, you just won't get it going.
When it is running, go to full throttle & adjust the high speed jet until the engine peaks, then back it off until the engine starts to lose revs. Go to idle at let it run there for at least 30 sec -- if it just dies away & stops fairly quickly, it is still a bit lean on the low speed -- adjust it open in 1/4 turn increments until it stays running at idle.
On the other hand, if it starts to stumble & blubber at idle speed & eventually staggers to a stop, it is too rich. Close the low speed needle in 1/4 turn increments until it at least stays running.
That will let you keep it going for the break-in process --- follow your manual for that.
#7
Some gas tanks load from the servo compartment and others have a hatch right above the gas tank that would be held on by a screw. In either situation, you should be able to pull out the gas tank. There made to be taken out. You're supposed to check the gas tank before every season just to make sure the rubber stopper didn't deteriorate and that it didn't loosen itself. If the tank came put together with all the fuel lines and everything installed, and you're not sure how to take it apart, ask and someone will help, but they're pretty easy to figure out.
Edit spelling
Edit spelling
#11
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From: Lone Grove,
OK
Hi guys I have a quetion? I have a Saito 150 and it is new but has been in the air 3 times and 3 times I had too tighten the muffler at the motor head.Is there something I can do too keep the muffler tight?Ant one else had this problem please help. Thanks
Joe.
Joe.
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From: Kirkland,
WA
Back to the old plane with the leaky tank. I would do more ckecking than just the tank. I took one of mine out of storage ( 20 years )and if I had just stared it and taken off I would have been flying a firewall. I had to rebuild the nose of the plane because the oil soakage over time had loosened the bond of the epoxy. All I'm Saying is keep an eye on it.
#13
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From: Waterloo,
IL
its only a year old, i got it last christmas, didnt want to fly it until i got some experiece, put it in the basement and forgot all about it... until i stumbled acrost this site, and well, yep, i want to fly it now! Need to get me a cheap electric to learn the basics....



