How to paint a cowl?
#1
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I want to change the color scheme of my WM Mentor, the cowl is fiberglass already painted.
What kind of paint should i use?
Do i have to remove the old paint?
Any advice is wellcome [&:]
What kind of paint should i use?
Do i have to remove the old paint?
Any advice is wellcome [&:]
#2

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From: Chesterfield, MO
If the plane is powered by a glow engine, you need to use a fuel-proof paint. The hobby shops sell a line of fuel proof spay paint. if it is powered by electric or gasoline, then you can paint it with most any spray can (rustoleum, Krylon, etc). You don't have to remove the old paint, but you could save some weight if you sand off the old paint, re-prime, and paint the new.
#3
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ORIGINAL: joesabido
I want to change the color scheme of my WM Mentor, the cowl is fiberglass already painted.
What kind of paint should i use?
>I would recommend an acrylic enamel (fuel proof ), although
>any type of paint will work if you primer the cowl first and if
>needed, clear coat it afterwards.
Do i have to remove the old paint?
>It depends on what shape the old paint is in AND what type of
>paint you plan to put on.
>
>The MAJORITY of factory painted parts are done in enamel.
>If you plane to put a lacquer over it, you either need to strip the
>old paint off or put a primer over the old paint.
>
>If the original paint is in decent shape AND you will be using an
>enamel paint, just sand the surface with some 320 or 400 grit
>paper, then THOROUGHLY clean the cowl with ALCOHOL, NOT
>PAINT THINNER OR LACQUER THINNER. The thinners WILL affect
>the underlying paint. Depending on the underlying color, you
>should be able to paint right over it since the sanding will give the
>new paint something to "bite" into. If you will be going over a
>dark color with a lite color, you may want to shoot a THIN coat of
>WHITE primer OR a THIN coat of silver first.
>
>If you plane to remove the old paint, BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT
>USING STRIPPERS. Many of them WILL AFFECT the fiberglass.
>I suggest sanding the old paint off if you want to remove it.
Any advice is wellcome [&:]
I want to change the color scheme of my WM Mentor, the cowl is fiberglass already painted.
What kind of paint should i use?
>I would recommend an acrylic enamel (fuel proof ), although
>any type of paint will work if you primer the cowl first and if
>needed, clear coat it afterwards.
Do i have to remove the old paint?
>It depends on what shape the old paint is in AND what type of
>paint you plan to put on.
>
>The MAJORITY of factory painted parts are done in enamel.
>If you plane to put a lacquer over it, you either need to strip the
>old paint off or put a primer over the old paint.
>
>If the original paint is in decent shape AND you will be using an
>enamel paint, just sand the surface with some 320 or 400 grit
>paper, then THOROUGHLY clean the cowl with ALCOHOL, NOT
>PAINT THINNER OR LACQUER THINNER. The thinners WILL affect
>the underlying paint. Depending on the underlying color, you
>should be able to paint right over it since the sanding will give the
>new paint something to "bite" into. If you will be going over a
>dark color with a lite color, you may want to shoot a THIN coat of
>WHITE primer OR a THIN coat of silver first.
>
>If you plane to remove the old paint, BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT
>USING STRIPPERS. Many of them WILL AFFECT the fiberglass.
>I suggest sanding the old paint off if you want to remove it.
Any advice is wellcome [&:]
Hope this answers your questions.
#4
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From: Whidbey Island, WA TX
yup... use blue masking tape and just about any type of spray paint.. I'd recommend you primer it first... then go over it with Top Flite Lustrecoat clear or a similar hobby type clear that's glow proof...
Casey
PS you can also do latex paint if you want custom colors... but you'll have to REALLY make sure you do the clear as latex is not glow fuel proof...
Casey
PS you can also do latex paint if you want custom colors... but you'll have to REALLY make sure you do the clear as latex is not glow fuel proof...
#5

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From: Standish,
ME
Well I just finished painting what is supposed to be an ABS cowl with ultracote and lustrkote. In between the two colors I used some white pinstripe (and blue tape) to avoid getting splatter of one color on another. When I went to pull the pinstripe off, some of the paint came right off[:@]. I've tried priming the cowling 1st as well and neither paint seems to stick to this plastic. Maybe it's not ABS.[&:]
#6
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ORIGINAL: jzinckgra
Well I just finished painting what is supposed to be an ABS cowl with ultracote and lustrkote. In between the two colors I used some white pinstripe (and blue tape) to avoid getting splatter of one color on another. When I went to pull the pinstripe off, some of the paint came right off[:@]. I've tried priming the cowling 1st as well and neither paint seems to stick to this plastic. Maybe it's not ABS.[&:]
Well I just finished painting what is supposed to be an ABS cowl with ultracote and lustrkote. In between the two colors I used some white pinstripe (and blue tape) to avoid getting splatter of one color on another. When I went to pull the pinstripe off, some of the paint came right off[:@]. I've tried priming the cowling 1st as well and neither paint seems to stick to this plastic. Maybe it's not ABS.[&:]
To prep an ABS/plastic cowl/part for painting you need to do the following:
Sand the item with 320 or 400 grit paper.
Thoroughly clean the cowl/part with ALCOHOL. Make sure you do not touch it after you clean it since the oils on your fingers will get on the piece.
Prime the cowl/part.
When the primer is DRY. apply the paint.
If you are masking, use the 3M blue masking tape. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE "60 DAY SAFE RELEASE" TAPE, not the 14 day safe release tape. The 60 day will not pull underlying paint.
To eliminate any "bleeding", clear coat the edge of the tape and let dry prior to painting.
#7

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From: Houston, TX
I use pin stiping tape myself. I like the nice crisp lines it leaves. And the way it goes around curves. Not to mention that is generally what I have on hand. But as Campy says, it is sticky stuff. To avoid the problem mentioned above, wait about 30 to 50 minutes after painting and then carefully remove the tape. Sometimes there is still a little glue residue left and that needs to be cleaned off. But I wait several days until the paint is cured.
And nothing tops off a cool paint job like clear coat. I have used the LusterKote Crystal Clear and man, oh man, that stuff works great !!
And nothing tops off a cool paint job like clear coat. I have used the LusterKote Crystal Clear and man, oh man, that stuff works great !!
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From: Mission,
TX
How you pull off the masking will also determine how well your finish will look. Foldl it back over itself and at about a 45* offset, pull slowly. Using the right masking tape will make a HUGE difference.
Safe Flying!
Safe Flying!
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Thank you for your replies guys
The cowl will be black, just black, i'll give it a shot, but if i feel i can't do it (i have ZERO experience working with FG, priming materials, etc) then i'll take it to a friend of mine who works with those materials (he builds custom car bodies)
Thanks
The cowl will be black, just black, i'll give it a shot, but if i feel i can't do it (i have ZERO experience working with FG, priming materials, etc) then i'll take it to a friend of mine who works with those materials (he builds custom car bodies)
Thanks



