Here's some more food for thought. I know you said earlier you wanted to build a trainer from a kit, but you may want to consider an ARF. I fly both ARFs and kits. Each has their value. I get alot of satisfaction from flying kit built planes, but I also have fun with ARFs. My ARFs actually get flown more often than the kit built planes, I consider them a bit more utilitarian, and a bit more expendable. If you get an ARF to learn with you can begin your training soon. Depending on how much free time you have, it could be with a week or two of receiving the plane. You will also spend less money on an ARF. Going the ARF route will significantly shorten the time till you can fly that Cub.

I too would go with the ARF route... Depending on you and how much time you have that kit could take til NEXT flying season to finish! The ARF can be done in dayz and is cheaper than the kit.

I also agree with the ARF route. Less emotional attachment, so more likely to try things you might not try on a plane you've got a lot of time in.

How is that Saito mounted, sideways or inverted? It might make a difference in getting it set up and running well,; my experience is that they are a little more prone to flooding if inverted (at start-up), but once running,, no real difference. I think it has to do with where the tank typically mounts in Cub models (height), and the carb position relative to the tank is usually a tad lower when the engine is inverted. When I built my Sig, I mounted the tank in the recommended spot, and my .65 Saito is inverted. I generally have to use a starter and spin the engine for about 5 seconds, pause, and then it will immediately fire the next time you flip the prop. Starting with the needle at 2 turns out should be plenty on a broken-in engine, and it will probably lean out at about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. If you're using a 14-6 prop, it will probably turn it as fast as Saito recommends for max engine speed, about 11,500. My .65 will turn a MA 14-6 to 9650. I can't really give any suggestions on the low end adjustment. I haven't had to touch it on my .56, .72, or the .80, and my .65 has the older air-bleed low end. It was a ***** to initially adjust, but I haven't had to mess with it once I got it set properly.

There's something about the older Saito's I kind of like better than the newer ones. I have a .56, a .65, a .72, and an .80. The .65 and .80 are both the older design, with the brass cylinder sleeve, longer stroke to bore diameter, and higher compression. They seem "torquier" than the other ones at lower rpms. I run all of mine on Cool Power 15% nitro with great results, plus the fuel also contains conditioners so you don't need after-run oils.

So getchorself an ARF, and then tackle the Cub. Keep us posted on your progress.

Got the engine to run for about 3 seconds or so and it cut off. I turned it over several times without the glow plug attached and it still wouldn't start. It acted as if it had lost compression until I turned it over three to five times. Then it would want to kick back. Maybe the needle valve it not set properly. I had the choke open a little when it first started, and then closed it, no luck, opened it back up, no luck, then all the way open, no luck. Turned it over again several times to clean out the engine but still would start. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

FF Smitty

Just so U know I did have the glow plug heater attached during the rest of the starting attempts.

FF Smitty

I wouldn't worry about using the choke, the newer Saitos don't even have one any more. You might try using an electric starter for a while, so you can really spin the engine rapidly. The carb may be gummed up from sitting a while, how long has it been since it was regularly run? Keep the throttle open about 1/3, with the screw out about 2 turns, make sure you're getting exhaust pressure into the tank, and make sure the crankcase breather is clear (the small nipple on the back plate-- run a few inches of fuel tubing from it to a point beneath the plane so it can dump the oil that will come out as it runs.

While you're spinning the engine with the starter, have someone hold their finger over the exhaust. You should get fuel spraying out of the carb after a few seconds. Also check the glow plug, since the engine did fire, it's probably okay, but you might want to put a new one in just in case. I recommend the OS "F" plug.

If the engine turned without seeming to have compression, it may be that the ring is stuck, or just a dry cylinder. Once the fuel coats the cylinder, it will seal around the ring better and compression will improve. I've noticed this in my engines if they sit for a while, but a few turns and they're fine.

Headed to Augusta, GA today to pickup an electic starter etc. The plane doesn't seem to have compression anymore. Think I have a serious engine problem. Gonna let the guy at the hobby shop look at it, then stop by the field on the way home. Thanks for the advice. The ARF sounds like the way to go to get started quick, I'll probably pick one up if I can't find a used trainer somewhere.

FF Smitty

Saito engines do not have flooding issues running inverted. Mount them straight up, horizontal, at a 45 degree angle, or inverted. This engine loves to run without problems no matter how it's mounted!

Enjoy!

OK guys, I bit the bullet and bought a Hanger 9 Alfa Trainer today, .60 size so I'll be able to see it, and my Saito 80 will work on it as well. Its an ARF and I'm going to put it together an go flyin (with my instructor of course). Then I'll probably be asking you guys what kind of kit to build. Turns out that I had pinched the fuel line when putting the fuel tank in the last time and put a hole it in. Thus, problems keeping the engine running an not starting (air in the line). Last night I tried to defuel the tank and it wouldn't defuel although I didn't see any leaks it was just enough to mess up the flow, that should have given my the heads up. But hey, I'm a green hand and allowed to do things like that right?

FF Smitty