When installing my radio gear in my new plane I needed to have both ends of a 2-56 rod treaded. One was already treaded and I tried to tread the other and it turned out to small to fit the ends. So I tried another rod which looked bigger and one end was already treaded and same thing happened. What going on? Do I need a larger rod to thread to 2-56? I need help?

Im betting both ends arent supposed to be threaded, probably one should be z bent and the other threaded. If they are, just use 2-56 allthread and put a small carbon fiber tube just barely big enough to fit over the allthread like .187 or smaller. Dont use allthread without a CF or some sort of hollow rod over it or it will snap in two when it flex's.

You could do the following options without being threaded in order of most likely to not fail in flight

1. Z bend (you can do it yourself, but from what i hear, these help alot) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL475&P=ML
2.L Bend with easy links
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAZC3&P=7
3. easy connectors (Can easily come lose)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD929&P=7

RC Ken has a diagram for making Z bends without the special pliers.

I am not trying to use an all tread. I am trying to hook up my ailerons and need to use ball swivels on both ends.

Firewalkerd1,
The problem you are having is because pushrods that are commercially manufactured are actually pressed into the metal and not cut. You'll never be able to cut your own threads on the rod. Your best bet is going to use a threaded rod and solder a threaded connector to the opposite end of the rod. Make sure that you put a lock nut on the rod so that it can't vibrate and rotate out of your ball links.

Here is the link to what you need at Tower Hobbies.

[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD887&P=0[/link]

Hope this helps.

Ken

Do not attempt to thread rods. The manufacturing process is such that any rod threaded will not produce threads deep enough to hold clevises. I would recommend either using a rod threaded end to end or, preferably use a fitting not needing threads, e.g., quick links or something similar.

As an aside, a fellow club member threaded rods and the clevis pulled off during flight with the sad result of a total loss of a brand new plane during its maiden flight.

DaveB

Thanks for the information. I though as much on the factory treads. I do use the coupler and also use the solder links also buy wanted something better looking on the outside of the plane. Guess I'll just stay with what works.

Hey if you want to get serious about something that looks good go with Hangar 9 pro Linkages or carbon fiber pushrods. That is what the pro's use. I have HAngar 9 linkages on my 37% Ultimate and CF Pushrod setups on my pattern planes. What is nice about the hangar 9 linkage is that its threaded so that you can adjust the length of the pushrod just by turning it. Then you tighten down the locknut against the ball link or clevis and you are locked in. You dont have to take things down to make adjustments. They are a little pricey but very clean.

Here are some links to the good stuff that we use on high end airplanes.
[link=http://www.centralhobbies.com/control_linkage/carbrod.html]Carbon Fiber Setup[/link]

[link=http://Hangar 9 Linkage]http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin/rcm/hazel.cgi?action=serve&item=/Models/Accessories/ServoAccessories/Hangar9.html[/link]

Your best answer is right here. I usually use a die on the end that I am going to solder on to the fitting, rather than just rough up with sand paper or a file. This gives the male rod end a better surface for solder to hold on to inside the female brass fitting. I usually flux it and tin it after cutting some rough threads with a die. Haven't had one come loose in flight yet. Many of us are using althread and carbon fiber tube to make really strong push rods for the larger airplanes. There are some really good threads in the building sections on many of the techniques used. DO NOT TRUST A ROD YOU HAVE TRIED TO CUT THREADS IN YOURSELF, it will pull out under heavy load. Good luck and follow Kens advice.

Here is the type of rod BegNed was talking about. Several lengths are available.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...ProdID=HAN3552

Yes, pricey but pretty. I only found 4-40 size so far also.

"Beg"Ned... lol my wife would like that... Thanks for giving a good link, I dont know what happened to the one I added...

most rod they use now is rolled and when you cut threads it gets brittle.if you want to use threaded rod on both ends rod i would suggest using bicycle spokes they are the same size and a solid type rod.when you cut the threads use some type cutting oil to help cool and lubricate the dye.i have never seen ball links used on both ends of a control except for helicopter's

Sorry Mike, just a typo. Was kinda cute though. Must be why I usually copy/paste the names.

If you're really concerned about looks, go to an electronics store and get some heat-shring tubing. It comes in many sizes and colors.