HEY EVERYONE MY NAME IS STEVE,IM FROM SOUTH AFRICA, I HAVE A NEW THUNDER TIGER PRO 25 THAT IS GIVING ME ENDLESS TROUBLE I FIRES UP NICELY AND WHEN I OPEN THE THROTTLE THE MOTOR JUST DIES I HAVE CLEANED IT IN METHONEL AND EVERYTHING SEEMS TO BE CLEAN IT JUST WONT RUN?COULD IT BE THE IDLE SETTING?

Hi Funtana! Welcome to RCU!
I'm assuming you're new to this... I'll try to help as much as possible.
First things first - Make sure the high speed needle is set. Try closing it all the way(turn clockwise until it stops-don't force it), then open it(turn counterclockwise) two full turns.
You may have to prime it before starting by placing a finger over the carb opening at full throttle, and turning the prop several times to draw fuel into the carb(watch the fuel tubing - you'll see fuel go up to the carb as you flip the prop).
Double check your glo ignitor/battery... Should start.

If it will start, but then quits as you throttle up, it could be the idle adjustment. Try richening the idle(not the high speed) screw by about 1/8 of a turn, and try again. You may have to repeat this until the motor will transition from idle to full without hesitating. Adjust, run, adjust, run, etc, etc...

These engines should be "broken in" before you try to fly them, in order to seat all the moving parts. Check the instruction book or website for their reccomendation for this...


By the way, all CAPS is considered "shouting" on these forums.

sorry bout the caps, the motor has been run in and it has always run beautifully untill my brother thought the idle screw was for adjusting the throttle horn how far should i turn the screw out before i start playing around

Sorry, missed your reply as I was editing mine to add more info.

In that case, I would try to adjust it by small amounts each time (1/8 turn or less), and be patient, keep turning and running, turn, run, etc - he may have turned it quite a ways...

when i say idle screw im talking about the one on the left if the prop is facing you!do you know if the kadett lt 25 is a good trainer?

That would be the Low speed screw, and as stated before, just turn it in all the way then bring it out 1/8 of a turn at a time, until you get the idle established. the other screw usually next to the fuel inlet(not always carb) is High speed screw,,,,,turn it out 1 3/4 to 2 turns,,,after it starts and runs,,,,do pinch test to set highspeed screw,,,,,,,,,,anyone wanna elaborate on pinch test???
\

yes little by little will do the trick

Correct. Depending on the engine, you either have an idle screw(a.k.a. low speed), or an air bleed screw. They work pretty much the same, though it takes smaller adjustments to get an air bleed type to behave, in my experience. I'm not sure about this particular engine, as I don't currently own one, but they all work pretty much the same.

The large screw on the other side is the high-speed needle, and only affects the mixture at full or high throttle. However, the LOW speed(idle) adjustment will affect both the idle AND the high speed mixture. So when you get your engine to keep running, and preferably with a good idle(by adjusting the low speed 1/8 turn at a time), then you will need to slightly adjust the high speed needle as well. This is what SoonerAce was talking about with the "pinch test".

The "pinch test"... This is how you can tell if your engine is running too rich or too lean at high throttle... With the engine running at full throttle(be careful!), gently pinch the fuel line to the carb briefly, and then let go. If the engine dies completely(stops), then the high speed is adjusted too rich. Turn the (high speed)needle 1/4 turn clockwise, and try again. If it speeds up(high rpm), and/or kind of "stutters", it's too lean, and you should turn the needle 1/4 turn counterclockwise, and give it another try. Ideally, you want the engine to just barely speed up when the fuel line is pinched(that leans it out slightly and temporarily), then return to normal full throttle RPM when released. Listen for the sound while doing this - it's a good indicator of RPM if you dont have a tachometer handy.

As for the Kadet LT-25 - Yes, it's among the best trainers there are! (All the Kadets are good)

Maybe. Depending on the engine, you either have an idle screw(a.k.a. low speed), or an air bleed screw. They are in different places for different engines. They work pretty much the same, though it takes smaller adjustments to get an air bleed type to behave, in my experience. I'm not sure about this particular engine, as I don't currently own one, but they all work pretty much the same. I don't have a picture of the .25 PRO, but I do have the .25 GP, see below. I believe they are similar.

The large screw on the left side(the engine's left) is the high-speed needle, and only affects the mixture at full or high throttle. However, the LOW speed(idle) adjustment will affect both the idle AND the high speed mixture. So when you get your engine to keep running, and preferably with a good idle(by adjusting the low speed 1/8 turn at a time), then you will need to slightly adjust the high speed needle as well. This is what SoonerAce was talking about with the "pinch test".

The "pinch test"... This is how you can tell if your engine is running too rich or too lean at high throttle... With the engine running at full throttle(be careful!), gently pinch the fuel line to the carb briefly, and then let go. If the engine dies completely(stops), then the high speed is adjusted too rich. Turn the (high speed)needle 1/4 turn clockwise, and try again. If it speeds up(high rpm), and/or kind of "stutters", it's too lean, and you should turn the needle 1/4 turn counterclockwise, and give it another try. Ideally, you want the engine to just barely speed up when the fuel line is pinched(that leans it out slightly and temporarily), then return to normal full throttle RPM when released. Listen for the sound while doing this - it's a good indicator of RPM if you dont have a tachometer handy.

As for the Kadet LT-25 - Yes, it's among the best trainers there are! (All the Kadets are good)