bruce88123

Just let us know when you need some help. We'll work both of you into one thread if you don't mind.

jmneissa

Thanks bruce88123 i will try and get on more often but working a full day job it is some times hard to get on every day or even other day. Ok now that this is behind us lets get back on the build. I got the kit as a present and have started to put together the wing however i am a slow builder and like to take my time which i do not have much of. Right now i am doing the right side of the wing and have a few questions. On the leading edge how do you guys make it round. I was thinking of getting a big tube cutting it down the middle and linning it with sandpaper but mabe there is anothr way to do it. Please post

Matt

jobraer

i dont mind sharing the thread. i didnt mean to hijack this one out from under Matt either..lol. but it didnt seem to make much since to start another thread on the same subject. But never the less Matt if you notice the plans state not to round the leading edge until you have fitted the wing to the top of the cabin. or atleast thats what mine says. and good luck on yours. i get to continue mine tomorrow.

jmneissa

Lucky you I cant get back to mine until Sunday I am out of town for the week on bussiness so I thought I would clear up some questions I had so when I get back I can get som good work done. What type of power do you use in your plane I am using a O.S. 40 LA but now thinking of changing it to a saito 56 also what model and brand fuel tank do you use I was planning on using a great planes but they were on temporary halt so now I am thinking of getting a sulivan any input would be good

jobraer

i have a great planes tank for mine, also was going to run a .40 LA. but soon change my mind to an OS .61 FX i want the extra added power for later on when my skills improve so that lite areobatics wont be lacking in power. but from what i understand a .40 size will fly this plane well though. but that is still a ways off for me. i havent gotten the wings joined yet...

bruce88123

There are any number of ways to shape the leading edge when the time comes. Sanding blocks. rough it out with a razor plane and then sand, a contour sander (home made or store bought). Start out with a coarse (80) sand paper and go finer as you get closer to the shape desired. You can make a contour guage from the profile view in the plans either on cardboard or tougher material.

iflynething

YAY, jmneissa's BACK!! Thanks for clearing everything up. Like everyone said, we are more than happy to help you with whatever you need. An answer will be found no matter what (I think so!)

Where did you live in London?

Keep up the building!

~Michael~

jobraer

i am having trouble getting the wing half joined together, they fit fine until i get to the leading edge. there is a gap in between them about 1/8th inch. when i try to fit them together the leading edge is out of alignment. any suggestions?. i may have to redo the last wing rib possibly but im not sure.

iflynething

On this wing, how exactly to you join the wing. I have tried to look in the manual but can't find anything. What I have right now for the plane that was given to me is just two spars with the dihedral built in. How is this joined. Are the two innermost spars just joined together, and how is that done.

I don't plane to finish this plane, but I'm just wondering about how this is done

Thanks

~Michael~

jmneissa

I live in Kensington London to anwser your question. Also for the problem on the wing half I would think that you should fill it with puddy or when you iron on the monokote it will be inviable to the eye.

Matt

aerospot

How's the Kadet build going?
I'm putting the finishing touches on one that I had begun last year. It sat in mothballs until my grandson indicated he wanted to fly it so, I have scrambled to get it in flying condition so that he can fly this year...
As stated, I have opted to make this a tail dragger as well as other modifications. I have added ailerons and taken out the dihedral from the wing. These mods are fairly easy to do. I can take pictures of mine and make some drawings if you are interested.
IMHO a good BB .40 is sufficient for power. Unless you want a rocket-ship that will launch vertical, a .60 is way too much. These things are like powered kites and dont handle very well in moderate / stiff winds.
A steerable tail wheel is nice but not necessary. With the large rudder a free-wheeling tail wheel works quite nicely. It takes some of the effort out of the tail dragger configuration. Ailerons are a necessity in my book. Roll is a must. And if you have some pryor experiance a flat wing will enable mild aerobatics much better.
I use white glue as much as possiable however, building the truss-work is alot quicker with CA. Do avoid the vapors as stated. Stings the eyes something terriable.
As far as the fuel compartment access goes, its quite easy to make a hatch on the bottom of the fuse that will allow access to this area. I would recommend doing this as I have had occasion to remove the fuel tank in the past and the hatch makes it possiable.
I'll try and remember to take some digital pics and have them ready if you want.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Can you post a picture of the gap for me to look at? There are several different places you can have a gap, some are easy to fix and others are not. If your problem is what I think it is there shouldn't be any big deal to fix it, but I want to be sure that they problem is what I think it is. Post a pic and I'll see what I can do to help.

Ken

ynot1

Gentleman!
I have inherited a Kadet sr. (well its been given to me, its very old, crashed etc!
Anyway as I like to do,
I will fix it and fly it.

Question: where is the CG ?
anyone have the old building plans / instruction for the kit?

jobraer

i will get some pics of this in the morning. just got home from work and what not. but please do post pics if at all possible they help tons. wondering if i can leave the wings halfs as they are. but more courius as to makeing the last ribs at the joint out of 1/4 balsa. the last thing i want is the wing to seperate in flight. i know it will add weight but with a .60 sized engine i dont think it wil be a problem, or will it?. thanks. JT

solafein

I know that this is not the place to mention BARF's but the Kadet Sr. ARF has barn door ailerons that would be easy to copy.[sm=idea.gif]

All you need is a couple extra pieces of balsa, not sure on size as the plane is in the bedroom with the sleeping wife, and I don't relish waking her with a ruler and digital camera in my hands, I might get shot or something.

Find a ARF and copy the layout, or wait until I can post pics and specs. [&o]

Another really cool thing the ARF does is mount the aileron servo flat on its side inside each wing half. They use these cool little ABS servo covers to screw hardwood posts to, mount the servos to the posts, and then you affix the whole works to the opening in the wing half.[X(]

Besides the vertical lines being a little short, nonexistent, because the ol' 46LA cannot pull an 8 lb. monster around like a real engine would, with the ARF layout I perform the Sportsman Pattern sequence better than with my Tiger 60. If it were not for my daughter learning to fly with it, I would be looking at a Saito 100 and going to events with it next year and not the Tracer I am building.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

iflynething

Go for a 100 in this plane. What should the AUW be anyways!

I'm still trying to sell my Senior that's still just framed up!

~Michael~

solafein

The ailerons are the last eight ribs. You can get the covers from your LHS, they are a Sig product. The sheeting covers the whole bay where the aileron is mounted on the servo side only. It has basswood, I think, rails to mount the cover to. Good luck.

jobraer

well guys i know its been awhie since i have posted, been busy with bday's and all. so here is the progress thus far, i put the wing aside for awhile a started on the fuse which at this point is about 80% complete and set it aside as well until i can get it back into the shop for some serious wood working for the conventional style landing gear and fire wall. plus the tank access port. rear stab is complete along with rudder and elevator. pretty straight forward those were. was going to post pics but i have misplaced my camera some where along the way. still debating on what style ailerons to use. the more i look at the barndoor and two servo set up the more i like it. but thats why i set them aside until i make up my mind.

bruce88123

"tank access port" Is that the same thing as a hatch?

ynot1

Please look through you manual and find the CG for the Kadet.

aerospot

If you get that far and still dont have the CG located let me know & I'll take a pic of my plans depicting the location.
I'll try to take some detail pics of my ailerons and post-em if I can figure out how...

Been workin on a Sr. Telemaster that bit the dust on its maiden. That was spring 2001.
It was my last build pryor to this Kadet. Grandkid has been bugg-in me bout teachin him to fly RC.
He got some stick time last Saturday with the buddie chord.

jobraer

"port" "hatch" call it what you want just as long as you dont call me late for dinner. anyway it is my understanding that in order to obtain the correct CG with the tail dragger Mod is that the main gear will have to be moved forward to almost the leading edge or there abouts. but im not so worried about that at this point as i am getting the rest of the parts put together and covered. dang i wish i could find my camera[:@].

jobraer

Oh and speaking of the telemaster line of aircraft. hobbylobby as come out with a new 12 foot wingspan version of the telemaster. had i known this was going to happen i would have waited and gotten that instead. its a monster!

how did your grandson do this weekend?

solafein

3 7/8 inches back from the leading edge, at 6 inches spacing. Pretty much dead on the spar.

bruce88123

The desired CG does not change between tri-cycle gear and tail-dragger configurations. The location of the main gear moves forward so that the plane doesn't fall on it's nose in the tail-dragger config. Equipment/weights must be moved to maintain the orig CG point when converting.