Greetings

Welcome to the best time of your life. I have been flying for about 1 year. I started of with electrics, I bought my first Glow plane about the first of the year it is a very nice trainer and fairly well priced. Sky raider Mach 1 high wing semi-symmetrical for greater control

armody

Your transmitter has a low battery warning built in, so you could disscharge with the TX turned on until the warning comes on then fully charge. As your equipment is fairly new I would not get too concerned about the cycling of your batteries just yet, by the time you need to do this you will be so into flying and rc that you will have so many sets of gear rx and bateries that you would have to by a different charger, when you do get one that has the facility to cycle batteries, you would not belive how many chargers disschargers and ballancers I have for all the batteries I have for my fleet of aircraft, I would hate to add up the cost over the years.

Mike

Mike,

Thanks again for your advices. TX means transmitter? T stands for transmitter what does x stand for? RX similarly receiver, so again x comes? you mean to say that I should turn on both transmitter and receiver until they go dead as they do and then charge it back? manual says I should charge it overnite which is 16 hours, should i charge 16 hours or more? and for how long I should charge the glo plug? should be 6 hours or 4 or more than 6? well, Im very new in RC world, but Im slowly slowly learning. One thing I also wanna ask that Sub Trim and Travel adjustment should not exceed from 80 for aileron, rudder, throttle and elevator or it should be more than that? Im not pretty much satisfied with the manual of JR radio, but personally I love JR radios, as compared to Futaba, they are more pretty in look and shape, but everybody has their own choice as you are Futaba man, well mike I would need your advices again.

Thanks

Mody

armody

DO NOT DISCHARGE THE RECIVER BATTERY BY SWITCHING ON AND LEAVING IT. The receiver battery does not have the low battery warning built in only the transmitter has this facility and even then you have to switch off manually. As I said before as your equipment is new don't bother with the discharge charge cycle yet.

Convention and the stupid English language has added the x to Tx and Rx its just the way everyone reffers to them.

The charger that came with your equipment has a very safe and low charge rate this allows charging overnight without problems. Your glow plug energiser battery charger also will have a low charge rate, so over night should also be OK.

On the sub-trim and ATV are you refering to % if so they can be up to 100%, but if your sub-trim is up that high, I would suggest you need to adjust the control surfaces on the aircraft to bring them back to sonewhere approximating 0%. ATV as Travel Adjustment is normally refered to in manuals is an adjustment to allow maximum throw of the control surfaces without stalling the servo. If you need to reduce the throw of the surface move the control rod out at the surface/control horn or in on the servo arm, this will give you better resolution on the servo rather than cutting down the amount of movement.

Hope that is clear, but I repeat do not switch on the receiver and leave it to discharge.

Mike

Hey all... I've just read the first two pages and would like to add some comments...

I, personally, like electrics... foamys. Being 13, the LHS people tried to get me to buy a Hobbyzone Firebird Scout... I ended up getting the Parkzone J-3 Cub. The person said that i'd crash it within 5 minutes guaranteed and if i didn't he'd cover 20% of the cost of my next plane!

Well... first flight behind the LHS in the corn field... First time on any real airplane (not counting 6 years of sim experience) and I get 10 solid minutes of flying in, mostly racetrack patterns but a couple of figure eights also. Now I'm comfortable flying with the Cub, and think I might move on to the typhoon!

We had a fun-fly/try the planes type thing at the LHS this weekend. I did get to try out the Typhoon (great on low rates, but a bit squirrelly on hi rates... it can torque roll on the standard NimH pack though!) and also the Hangar 9 PTS Mustang. With all the trainer features, I'd say that it was the same difficulty, if not easier, than the Cub. It slices the wind better, and doesn't want to noseover on a perfect landing like the cub does with it's 1 inch wheels and 1.5" prop clearance. It IS faster than the Cub, (duh) but its large size really helps with the visibility. With trainer functions removed, the Stang is great! Loops, Immelmans, and point rolls are fine... knife edges are hard to hold, but most aerobatics are a breeze. For a pilot who's only flown a Cub and just test flown a Typhoon, the PTS Mustang was really a breeze, both trainer style and hi-rate, Warbird style. I would say that you can't go wrong with a PTS Stang!!!

PZCubflyer

Thanks for your comments on the PTS it is nice to be vindicated some times, I think the PTS is a major break through in ab-initio involvement no longer do you have to have a boring plane to learn on. One of the suprising facts on the PTS is that someone has reported in a magazine that they where able to resart the engine in flight, in one instance five times, this was an instructor so he new when he was dead stick, this I must try.

Mike

Hi Mike,

First sentence of mine starts with thanks, well Thanks again for the suggestions. I have understood clearly about not leaving the receiver and the charger turned on to get discharged or drained out. I understood it pretty well. Now Come to Travel Adjustments and Sub Trims, yes they are with % and my plane's trims are not adjusted manually on 0Zero on my radio i have to move aileron trims right or left in order to adjust the plane during flight, my trainer drags or drifts on the right side, I have to move trim on my radio to make it fly straight, and on the other hand a lot of wind is there I dont know the speed but it gets pretty bad in the afternoon. So the point is my travel adjustments and sub trims are normally adjusted in minus -120% value like this, right aileron and elevator get outta setting sometimes elevator doesnt give enuff lift to the plane. This sunday I was flying my trainer due to wind I had a hard landing, my plane bounced and hit the ground second time and flipped over, I had a doubt engine came out, when I saw the wooden mounts of engine were broken, I tried to get another mount I got it but it seems a pretty cumbersome job, I got aggravated, and re-assembled my P51 Mustang to fly this sunday, just having a doubt that again right aileron would do trouble, but after completing nearly 10 to 12 solo flights over the trainer I feel much comfortable cos, despite of higher winds I didnt let the plane crash, I controlled it pretty well, and I think, I can control plane and won't let it crash, despite last sunday, one boy's small pattern plane crashed, one spitfire or zero plane crashed, and one helicopter crashed, mine was broken mount. As mustang is a precious gift of my wife, I didnt wanna put it on stake/risk but I feel myself that I would be more comfortable with tail dragger rather than tricycle landing gears. Im confident now, not over but Im gonna fly my mustang this sunday, I hope I would bring it in one peace, and I know I won't let it crash at any cost. I would keep you all posted after this sunday.Any other suggestions about sub trims and travel adjustment, I would really appreciate it.

Flying high without crash.


Mody

armody

Good on you for your continued flying and enjoyment. On the trims issue I'm not sure I understand what you are saying, but if you are saying that the trim of the aircraft keeps changing from one flight to another I would suspect a binding linkage, I suggest you switch on your plane and tansmitter on the ground and move the elevator and aileron controls and observe the surfaces to ensure they return to the same position each time they are operated, if they do not return to the same position that is your problem, check for binding linkages. loose servo's, loose control horns and or servos not returning to centre, if the latter remove linkage and check again. Let me know if this helps.

Mike

Mike,

I understood you what you mean, I have now completely re-assembled my P51 Mustang and bought TT's 11x4.5" 2 bladed prop. My rudder was not aligned so was the elevator, so I had to physically change the servo arm its position and clips which are attached at the end of pushrod to move rudder or aileron, I changed the positions of clevices and rudder and elevators are good, as well as electronically on my radio. Ailerons seem to be working fine and but left one doesnt come back aligned after turning of the receiver, rest I hope its ok, and it would I hope fly good,. I have removed airbrakes and straightened the flaps rather than being tilted/downwards. Im gonna fly it hopefully this sunday and let you know. Thanks again for your all the help.

Talk to you then,

Mody

armody

Straintening the flaps will make the P51 fly faster, if that is what you want OK, but be carefull, do not worry if the control surfaces are not in the correct postion when the radio is off, they should re-aline when you turn on the Tx and Rx.

Good luck this weekend.

Mike

Thanks Mike,

Well, Yes I want my P51 Mustang to fly fast, well, I know flaps help plane to take off and also help in landing, but with the flaps down, I was told that it would take its nose up with a 90 degree angle, well, with the flaps up, I think it won't have any problem in flying. Well, I would see once again if this sunday wind is a lot, I won't fly it otherwise, Im ready to fly it by myself. I have changed the prop from 3 bladed to 2 bladed 11x4.5# Thunder Tigre Nylon one. Im sure it would help it more to fly fast, otherwise, I have my old 3 bladed prop and I broke two props already, and thats my last 3 bladed prop. I'm still unable to understand why people prefer 2 bladed props, despite I saw people using 4 bladed props too, i think once again its a choice or speed. I have a question again, Does RPM have anything to do with speed? or if the RPM is higher speed is higher or rpm is lower speed is lower, kindly clarify me about it.

Happy Flying with safety

Mody

Mody, with respect to multi-blade propellers -- other than scale appearance (your Mustang, for example), the technical applications for multi-blade propellers are: to increase aero-braking (your Mustang again), reduce prop noise (many aerobatic competitions now have noise limits), or to enable the full output of an engine to be used in a situation where the diameter of the propeller is constrained by some factor & a two-blade cannot deliver the full output. However, the use of multi-blade props incurs performance penalties -- such a loss of performance is the price for meeting the other relevant criteria.

Regarding efficiency --- staying with the same manufacturer, the same material of construction, the same prop blade geometry (aspect ratio, shape, etc), a 3 blade prop for the same power load will always be less efficient that the 2 blade -- it isn't debatable -- it is simple fact & physics. There is more mass, more wetted area, more frontal area, one more root-transition zone, and for a prop of the same pitch -- less diameter. All of which simply means more parasitic power losses from drag, plus the loss of disc area in the case of smaller diameter. The engine makes the same HP (same load), but it just produces less usefull work.

However, as soon as you start mixing & matching prop performance factors, you can have some 3B props that actually "outperform" some 2B props -- but you are comparing apples to oranges in those cases & this is where much of the confusion & endless debate arrises.

The more efficient the 2B prop design, the smaller the performance differences will be between the particular manufacturer's 2B & 3B props. Conversely, the poorer the 2B performs, the greater will be the disparity in performance (poorer) of the equivalent 3B.


Guidelines for 2B - 3B conversion are simply that -- guidelines. In the prop size-range that is appropriate for your Mustang, for a particular prop manufacturer, using the same material of construction & with props of the same blade geometry (shape, aspect ratio, etc) --- the approximate equivalency is: from 2B to 3B, reduce the diameter 1" for the same pitch, or reduce the pitch 2" for the same diameter.

In the case of a your EVO engine, an 11-5 2B, 11-6 2B, or 10-7 2B is about right for general flying. All of those props will let the engine pull acceptable RPM's & generate reasonable thrust. Staying with the same prop manufacturer etc, an appropriate 3B would be a 10-5, 10-6, or 9-7. If you could find them, you could also use an 11-3 3B, or an 11-4 3B, but airspeed may begin to suffer unacceptably.

If you mix manufacturers, materials, blade shapes & aspect ratios, it becomes very difficult to use anything other than suck-it-and-see testing to determine which 3B prop is equivalent to your favorite 2B, or vice-versa. The guidelines become almost useless, other than for vague ball-park guessing.

armody

The three blade prop on your PTS Mustang is a special made for the engine with its attendant flywheel it is the most efficient for your needs, do not change it at this stage in your flying, it will introduce another variable that you do not need at this moment.

Pitch speed is what dictates the speed of the aircraft so pitch for pitch and diamiter for diamiter pull the same revs and you will get greater speed for a higher pitch, but the loading on the engine goes up so the revs come down, it can take some time to find the ideal prop for a given airframe and engine combination, once you have experience you can hear if an engine is over or under proped whilst in flight, take some advise from your instructor on what prop to use.

I still use the 3 blade prop on my PTS trainer, the flywheel on the prop driver makes the engine very reliable in the tickover, I also use the flaps at a set positive angle to enable slow approuch and to keep the speed in check for the pupil. I have found that the set up by H9 is the best that can be achived with this aircraft for training.

I am afraid that many people think they know better, and they should know better than to question a manufacturer of the standard and stature of Hanger 9, after all they are in buisness to get you flying not crashing and they will do everything in their power to ensure you buy their products again.

Mike

Eagle -- where are you going with that one?

britbat

I am trying not to confuse a beginer with too much information, i.e take notice of the manufacturer and their litrature its the best advise you can get on an airframe they know.

Mike

I'll buy that for a beginner, but there are more than a few tallented folks who can make the manufacturer's efforts look a bit shabby -- easily improving the manufacturer's airframe & powertrain set-up.

quote:

ORIGINAL: armody
quote:

ORIGINAL: bubbagates

I have succesfully trained 6 students on the Mustang and they had no prior experience. As suggested take of the brakes and change the prop.

All planes exhibt the nose drop in a turn, some more than others.

I would also look at the Nexstar while you are roaming around Towers web site. I have flown this plane tons of time also

Thanks a lot bubbagates for your reply, I would take the brakes off, from the landing gear, and about the prop, you suggested me to change, so I should go for 2 bladed prop?

Mody

Yep. change the prop to a 2 bladed APC 11X5. That will give the pull that plane needs and still keep it nice a slow. It really is a good plane. Allot of instructors are leary of it because it's a low wing and I was at first until I flew one with someone on a buddy box.

We made the recommended changes on the second flight and it really improved the flight characteristics and stiull kept it nice for a student

I found the cure for this addiction. Take two planes and go fly in the morning
Bill James

Mike/britbrat.

Well above is the suggestion of bubbagates about 2 bladed prop, the prop available was 11x4.5" 2 bladed Thunder Tigre which I purchased as advised by so many people to change it. I had 3 bladed props of evolution engine size is 10x6, out of which 2 I broke. Today was sunday but somehow I couldnot go to the flying field as I had fever, cough and cold (flu). It was very windy there as I was told by my friend. I just need to check this 2 bladed prop, what kinda performance its going to give hopefully this sunday when Im gonna fly my Mustang. After that if I would feel to change it back to 3 bladed prop, which I only have one left, I'd change. I have noticed one thing in my engine today, as I started the engine at home, Upon full throttle it gives a great pull but engine shuts down at full throttle, I tried to fix the speed needle but somehow I couldnt set it, otherthing is with the fuel, after few windings/turnings of fuel pump while fueling, it starts to throw out the oil, this only happens when the fuel is ful, after 3 to 4 turns it throws fuel out from the pipe which is connected to the muffler. I thought may be as its nose raises higher and I was fueling with nose straight thatswhy it is throwing out the fuel and tank is not getting fillled, I would check it out again next sunday after having it completely assembled and fly it. I always have a fear of aileron, I think, Im gonna neutral the aileron servos and then fix them on my radio. Mike, britbrat once again thanks for your suggestions.


Mody

The guys at my local club recommend the Phoenix Classic 40 sized trainer. One of the guys at the club sold me his Phoenix Classic with an O.S 46AX for $100 AUD as he now flies only Heli's. The motor has not done much work and starts very easily. I have an old MDS .40 here and that is an absolute pig to start and get to transition correctly without bogging down and stalling.
Have pretty much given up on the MDS.

The Classic has a couple of repair jobs on it (Tape on a couple of small tears and the tail feathers have been repaired fairly extensively with tape), but it should be perfect for me to learn to fly with.

I searched around on the forums, but cannot find much info on the Phoenix Classic trainer.

I am building a SPAD for my Enya SS .25 BB motor.

Spent a few minutes running up and down my friends backyard getting used to taxiing (wing off) and it is strange coming from RC Nitro trucks to planes. Using the left stick to both throttle and steer is peculiar to say the least. Trying to maintain throttle in one position while steering with the same stick is going to take some getting used to.

Im done with my high wing trainer, as its wooden engine mount broke, rather than fixing it back, I re-assembled my P51 Mustang and would fly this sunday hopefully. O.S. engines are best, but expensive whether 2C or 4C, I would like to buy Thunder tigre or Magnum in future, and naturally one OS as well. At the moment Im happy with my evolution .46 engine and which needs little bit setting of the needle, cos on full throttle it shuts down. Well, I hope the best for my Mustang again, its a good flying machine, I dont know it would climb up straight or not, cos for good climbing I know I have to have at least .91 2C engine.

Mody

Hi there all,

Its been a while nobody has posted anything in this forum, nothing's been replied or posted. Well, I have to post something and Im doing it. As I re-assembled my P51 Mustang from H9 and started it flying, and it flew it very well, but since I bought, from the start I had left aileron not responding not moving due to little loose connection of extention, somehow, it flew well before last sunday, but left aileron didnt respond and 2 times it was saved from being crashed, as I had to call senior flyers and they landed it. I fixed the aileron mechanically and last sunday it flew very well, and I landed it perfectly. As I told from the start as left aileron and right aileron servos are connected with extension wire then connected to Y-harness, second flight I did and it took off very well, as it was gaining height, it took a quick left turn, and started diving on the left side and I gave right aileron, it didnt respond so it took a nose dive and crashed[&o][&o]. I didnt even have chance to recover it, as it didnt gain much height, I have lost my Mustang, a friend of mine told me to send it to me, and I would get it repaired, I hope it is done. Rest its a part of this hobby, I hope to hear from you all.

Thanks

Mody

Some of the wreckage pictures

That's a shame Mody. We know how much you valued that model. It looks repairable with a lot of work. Get your trainer fixed & back in the air as well.

Commiserations & good luck

Brit, I dont think its a shame, well, it was not my fault, well, first im worried about my engine to be fixed, infact needle valve is broken, and it needs to be fixed, as I have given it to my friend so he is gonna do something about it in couple of days. Well, yes mustang is repairable another friend of mine who lives nearly 1,000 milesaway, i gotta send it to him and he told me to get it repaired, well, as soon as my engine needle valve is fixed, Im gonna fix back my high wing trainer, it needs a lot of work too, specially to put new plastic mount for the engine. One more bad thing happened is Rx is not working, i checked batteries, when I switch on the Rx servos just make a little jerky movement, when I turn on the Tx and try to check if servos are working nothing responds, my radio is doing good on the simulator, may be Rx's crystal is damaged as well, Im gonna get it checked as well, otherwise, bye bye for a long time. Yes I valued that plane, but its a part of that hobby and nobody can be so sure and confident about not making any crash whether its human error or its electronic or mechanical.

Mody

as a club trainer with about a dozen soloed students i have to agree with the LT 40 promoters.
the darn things just wanna fly and are easy to build and repair. an instructor will save you time $ and agrevation. i have several planes but my Lt 40 is still a favorite. they will roll axially and smoothly and definately will teach you to use rudder.