I recently purchased the RTF Hobbistar select 60, and am going through all of the steps that I have read and can think of and have read about to "properly" set up the plane and learn how to fly. I say this because normally I would try to cut corners and do it as cheap as possible. With this specific thread I plan to, if it is ok with everyone, and there is any interest, chronicle all of the stuff involved with getting, what is supposed to be a RTF into the air. Along the way I hope to get some of my questions answered, I have already asked and gotten answers to a couple of questions. Of which had I just done a search I would have gotten the answers. And I apologize for that... I know that is an issue on every forum. Any issues that arise that I do get the answers to I will post here.

The first thing that I did was purchase my Hobbistar 60 RTF, and then wait anxiously for a week for it's arrival. When it finally did arrive I was like a kid at christmas opening the box and assembling it. Which brings my first question. The instructions suggested I might use a drop of Elmers or similar white glue while putting in the screws for the landing gear etc. Is this commonly done, and would I benefit from removing these screw and doing this?

This brings me to my thread title, the RTF isn't really that ready to fly. I did not have fuel or a prop to break in my engine, which is my fault but something to keep in mind for other newbs.

I did not have the suggested tools to adjust the throws and to balance the CG, let alone the weight to do it with. So now I am eagerly awaiting there arrival.

I have rambled on long enough for now, I have to eat now. but will post later to catch up to all the stuff I have done so far.

That is unless no one cares to hear anymore about it. If so let me know

Caleb

First of all I would love to hear your story on getting your rtf actually ready to fly. Secondly instead of white glue I would use threadlock on the landing gear as well as any screws that screw into metal, especially on the engine mount. Good luck!

He is right blue locktite is your friend! The world can vibrate loose on these things.

Interesting post. IMHO you can use white glue any time you are putting screws into wood- it will help keep the screws in high-stress areas, like the straps over the landing gear struts. I would NOT use it for things you may want to eventually remove; like servo mounting. Use lock-tite for metal nuts on metal bolts.

Let me vent a little about the terms RTF and ARF (and all their variations). It makes me crazy when the manufacturers use these terms- when their products are anything but! Your typical "Ready To Fly" plane still requires you to remove it from the box, assemble a few pieces into one plane, charge batteries, add fuel (if required), start the engine, and ONLY then can the model traverse the atmosphere! I'm not complaining about having to do the work, but don't call it "Ready To Fly"! To me, "Ready To Fly" means it's assembled, with the engine running, sitting on the runway pointing into the wind! And "Almost Ready To Fly" means it's assembled, in the pits, waiting to be fueled and have the engine started.

There! I feel better now...

Anyway, keep us informed of your RTF adventure!

ho2, that is exactly what I meant about RTF, not ready to fly... Because once the prop is put on, it is balanced, the throws are set up, and the batteries are charged( the manual says to cycle them) which will either take a few days, or you pay for the fancy charger,then you put fuel in it so you can break in the engine. Of course once you have a starter and battery and glow starter. Then I guess, unless I have missed anything, you can fly the plane.

Which leads in good to the post I was going to do today...

This is a list of everything I either already have, or is on the way...
The "RTF" Hobbistar 60 kit
Electric Starter
12v Battery
Glow Starter
Power Panel
Electric fuel pump
I gallon of 15% nitro... the guy at the local HS said this would be fine for my engine, but from my reading it might be overkill. I guess I could of got away with using 5%
Field Box
Iron and 3 socks: not sure if the socks are a necessity, and kids, dont' forget to iron out the wrinkles.
3 extra glow plugs
6 propellers
Incidence Meter
CG Machine
Finger propeller balancer
Lead weights oh by the way, you need these to balance the plane
Extra Rubber bands
Radio neckstrap, Do alot of people use these?
After run engine oil

I think that about covers it, I am sure I have forgot something though. All told I guess it is about 600-700$'s worth of crap, I sold my wife on the 400$ RTF kit because in my words "I'll have everything I'll need hunny"

If anyone sees anything I should definately have that I have missed please chime in. This is not a gripe session, I hope this will help someone who is just thinking about RC, to give them an idea of all the things they will need. I am sure you can use alot of the stuff I ordered from other people at whatever field you choose to use. And yes, join the AMA and join a club, EVERYONE is going to tell you that. At our field instruction is free and they are very accomodating. They even seem excited to help as I am sure it is most clubs. And if the 150 or so that it costs for these membership saves just one plane it has paid for itself...

As for the elmers that is what I am using it for, to help hold the screws that go into wood.

One more question, what is a good way to tighten the prop down, I am assuming there is some type of wrench that will hold the engine from turning while you are tightening the prop. And I hope you are supposed drill out your spinner to size to go on the shaft, if not I will be ordering another one of those.

Well enough for now, sorry my thoughts are so scattered I am sure all of this is hard to follow. There are just so many things that keep coming up. I was going to start building a kit once I got this in the air, but think I am going to "baby step it" to an "ARF"

Caleb

I don't see a volt meter in there

I'd suggest a few tools like a prop wrench, small screwdrivers, allen keys for the wheel collars.

a volt meter? is that just to check on how much the battery is putting out?

I do have small allens and screw drivers, but not a prop wrench... I am assuming this will fit over the notched bolt that goes on the prop shaft first? Because that is what I think I am missing

I also keep a short length of fuel tubing in your field box...Oh, did you order fuel tubing? Another thing is a small set of screwdrivers, straight and phillips. Glow plug wrench and for your "Deluxe" panel you will also need some extra banana connectors. Do you have a battery charger for the 12 volt battery, how about an inline filter for your main line to your engine from your fuel container, better if used as the clunk. You can purchase a "Prop Reamer" either standard or metric, most have 3 or 4 steps so one will make 3 or 4 different size holes. A small container of thin CA in your field box is always handy to have with you. I know guys that have tons of stuff with them including an inverter to run all of them

The volt meter is to be sure the batteries have enough power to last through another flight. One like either of these would work well
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWW16&P=0 expensive
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNK81&P=0 less expensive

Prop wrench, I use an open end adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench) and it works fine.

A wrench like this is handy for installing glow plugs, but not necessary if you have a socket or nut driver the right size
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL387&P=0

The incidence meter is not something you'll need for your RTF; you might eventually need it for something but probably not soon.
The 15% fuel is fine; and that's the most popular percentage in this area according to all of the hobby shops. I use 10% because a hobby shop recommended it and it has worked well for me so far.

I do have a battery charger, I use my motorcycle trickle charger... I also have extra banana clips, a glow plug wrench, assorted screw drivers and allen wrenches. As well as a couple of fuel filters. I have plenty of fuel line too. I used a tap and die set for my prop reamer, it worked good for me. But I will probably end up getting one of those too.

The question I had about the wrench for the prop. I was thinking there might be an open end wrench one much like you use to change dremel tips. You know, to hold the shaft from turning while you are tightening the end. Or do you use an adjustable or a regular open end wrench?

Another question that just came up, my fuel tank is pretty much stuck in the fuselage, but it is not secure. It will rattle around in there. Any suggestions on how to keep it from doing that?

Caleb

Ahhhh, that is a good idea, for the volt meter.

Doesn't the incidence meter check the throws of all the control surfaces? I can visually see they are not all "perfect" They are not terrible, it's just that I am sure they could use some adjustment
You guys don't tell the misses about all this stuff. She'd kill me

Sometimes you can put this foam rubber around it to hold it in place and cushion vibration
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL430&P=ML

The incidence meter determines if the wings and tail surfaces are on the same plane. For the control surfaces you can measure the up/down or left/right movement with a ruler. Much easier if you have an assistant.

You can use either 1/4" or 1/2" foam rubber to wrap the tank, battery and receiver. Velcro is a wonderful thing.....it holds all sorts of things, much better than rubber bands. I use a small adjustable wrench for my prop, having several brands of engines could cause me to have several wrenches.








I won't tell yours if you don't tell mine...............

wow, so I didn't really need an incidence meter at all at this point? Definately don't tell her that! I had thought it was an easier and more sure way than just using a ruler.

The hardest part about wrapping the fuel tank is that I can't get it out. There is a bulkhead or whatever you call it between the tank and the opening and where the wing goes on.

Having an incidence meter can be an important item when setting up a plane so it wasn't a waste, sometimes the eye's play tricks on us and an aileron may be out 1 or 2 degrees, an incidence meter makes sure that it is set where you want them...read the directions. If you can't get to the entire tank cut sections of foam and slide it between the fuselage and the tank so its tight but not crushed you will also need to install something to keep the tank from sliding back and pulling the line off or causing it to rip. IF your landing rear is attached with steel screws or machine bolts I suggest that you replace them with plastic, that way if or should I say when you have a hard landing you won't rip the bottom out of the plane.......is this helping?????

Is the bulkhead made of rubber or foam (dark in color) if so you may not need anything else to secure the gas tank, and may only need it for the RX. was the tank installed when you received it?

roltech

It is definately helping!! I went with a RTF because my attention span can be really short on things, but RC planes has been something I have been interested in for over 20 yrs. I tried to build a kit a few yrs ago and it is still not finished, so I wanted to get something in the air fairly quick to see the results. And then I started running into all of these things, but you guys are definately helping.
As for my corsair kit I am going to cover here soon for a static model. Do not trust my building skills from 3yrs ago.

Caleb

You will find many helpful people here that will answer your questions, many of which were probably asked by themselves at one point or another. Glad that we can help in a productive way.

After run oil is just automatic transmission fluid (Dextron III) sold in a 2oz bottle for the same price for a quart at the local autoparts store. I run Morgan Fuel's Omega and that apparently has some additive that protects the engine, so I just flip the prop around a couple times after flying, as using after run oil might cause the additive or the fuel in there to crystalize, although I do use it for the RC trucks, since O'Donnel 20% is basically nitro and alcohol.

It has been a little while since I have been able to do anything with my plane as I have had family in town..
I received alot of my parts and tools last week and was pretty excited to get the plane balanced. I understand I can do it without a CG machine but I prefer to do it the CG machine until I know what I am doing. Anyways I receive all of my stuff from Tower and you can imagine my disappointment when I realize that the CG machine was defective. I have contacted tower and they seem to have intentions to replace it and to even reimburse my shipping costs. So I will have to wait a little while longer to be able to do that.

I also tried to start the engine this past weekend without much luck. I am very disappointed in the plastic spinner, the rubber grommet or whatever you call it in the electric starter was cutting into my plastic spinner. Is this common or am I doing something wrong? Would you guys strongly recommend me getting an aluminum spinner. I am thinking of doing it but was wondering if the issues I am having with my plastic spinner are something I don't need to worry about. I was able to get my engine to start but it would not stay running, but alas I was not armed with my trusty OS engine guide. Which I will be the next time I try to start it. I did however burn up the glow plug that came in the engine in just a couple of tries to start the engine. I am glad I bought a few glow plugs and think I will get at least a few more.

Well, I am sure there will be more to come Caleb

Tower is usually pretty good about correcting problems, so hopefully they'll send you a new CG machine.

As for the starter cutting into your spinner; that's perfectly normal. It's a shame to mess up a spinner, but that's what happens. An aluminum spinner does resolve the problem if you want to spend the money. Your plastic spinner will be alright, as long as the groove doesn't get so deep that it cuts all the way through. You can buy replacement inserts for your starter- I have a grey one from Sullivan. I think it's a lot softer than the one that comes with the starter, so it doesn't cut into a spinner, but it does leave a grey ring smudge.

A couple of things about this plane. First this is a great flying plane, it holds up nice in wind and floats in for nice landings. Second get rid of the plastic spinner and get a spinner prop nut. They are only about $8 and you do not have to worry about taking the screws off the spinner everytime the prop comes off. As for balancing you can just make a couple of marks about 3" from the leading edge of the bottom of the wing ( I think it is 3" but double check your manual) and pick it up with your two fingers on the marks. You can double check it when you get your CG machine. I know the manual says you will probably have to add weight, but I did not have to add any.

Chris

One thing I did not see, was a membership to the AMA. Provides insurance and stuff. Also, do you have a flight instructor? I know someone in the bloxom area that may be able to help you with that, and will keep your plane flying for more than 10-15 seconds. It's not as easy as it looks. Alot of the stuff you listed, I don't even own, and have been fairly succesful without it. Anyways, if you want to get up with the instructor, let me know, he's trained alot of flyers in accomac county.

calebep, you have a PM