OK,

I am going to begin break-in on my saito .82. I have a 14x8 prop, but I want to know if that is good for break-in or flying or both/neither. I am using the stock Glow plug, and some 10% fuel. I need to buy more fuel anyway, so any recommendations would be helpful.

I have a Du-Bro fueler on the thing and a LONG fuel line with a big loop in it in an effort to keep it from flooding. It's in a UCD .46 with the spray-bar mounted BELOW the tank by nearly 3/4" (a guess).

ANY and all advice will be appreciated. This is only my second 4-stroke and my first saito, although I have a 125a in a box. I keep it in my office so I can gaze longingly at it whenever I feel the need.

Anyway, I want to do a good job so it will last a while. I can't afford to mess it up. And....I need some hands-on experience before I build my Mayhem for the 125a.

I will likely begin tomorrow, (Wed), since I have to meet with clients for most of the day today; so I will have time to get another prop, fuel, PROZAC or anything else I may need.

Any and all Saito and/or 4-stroke engine gurus please help me, especially with the stupid 'tank above the carb' thing, (why did dey do dat)?.

Thanks,

Mark

Mark the book doesn't suggest any different prop sizing between break in & flying. Just the prop ranges for the three categories of flying Sport, Scale & Aerobatic. For that engine under Sport your 14X8 is the last one listed along with 14X6, 13X8, 13X7, & 12X8

It does say that for the 1st ten minutes of running time NOT to exceed 4,000 RPM & to oil the pushrod tubes & the rear pressure fitting then flip it over several times to get everything lubericated before you run it. I skipped this step on my 100 & thought I crashed a valve.[:@] Then I took it apart & oiled it & re-set the tappets. Then it fired up on the second flip, go figure. I got lucky for being stupid & not reading the manual until after I tried to start it. lol

If you still have your Manual for it just go to page 16 for the prop sizes for the kind of flying you intend to do with it. If you don't have it PM me and I'll look it up for you.

Thanks Mark,

I plan to use the 14x8 for break-in because it is one of the recommended props in the manual. I have seen other threads and the consensus is a 14x4W for 3D. I will NOT be flying 3D...yet. I just got back from a meeting and picked up a tach, a 14x4W and some fuel. I have a few other props which match those specifically mentioned in the manual. I think it's strange how they skip a bunch of sizes on some, and give you a range on others in the prop section. I have lubed it with some oil and now I just have to mess around with the spinner so I can use an electric starter. Yes, I am lazy.

Later

Have you looked at this website? http://saito-engines.info/specifications.html It is a great website on Saito engines. It explains on how to break-in engines. I just got a Saito .72 and I found to be a excellant website.

Good Luck!!

Mark yes I noticed that too. With your engine it gives just those props while for my 100 it shows like 14X6 thru 14X10 as one example.


Manny yes I have checked out that sight too. While not being a part of Saito the company, that guy has compiled a great source of information about Saito engines. Good site!.

I just built the plane you are. The kit directions say not to run more then a 6 screw prop! The carb being below the tank has not caused any problems with my Saito FA72. I run 15% omega and it seems to lilke it fine. I run a 14x6 Master air screw " K " prop and it is awesome. I ran mine rich, on the ground, for two tanks then leaned it out just enough to hold an idle and run then took to the sky. With the 72 and this prop, take off roll out is about ten feet then vertical at 1/2 throttle. Keep the CG to the front for a bit this plane realy is Dr. jekyll and Mr. hyde.

DrtJnky, That's good to hear. I've been running 15% in my NexStar & Tower Trainers & was wondering if I was gonna need to step-up the fuel for the new Saito. I can get 15% here in town from $14 to $16 depending on which brand I buy, but it junps to like $22 just for 20% & $28 to $35 for 25% to 30% so that would more than double my fuel cost if I was to run 30%! I think I'll try to stick with the 15% & see how the 100 likes it.

OK,

I have run the first tank....OMG there is a lot of raw fuel coming out of the crankcase vent line. I assume, (hope), that this will be less of an issue when I lean it out a bit. It's fairly cool here so i think 10-15 minutes between tanks should be good. Keeping the RPMs around 3k for the first tank...barely 10 minutes (a little less). I hope this thing will run a bit longer than 10 minutes per tank.

Thanks for all of your help so far!!

Your first tank of fuel will probably run rough and drink the fuel big time. You may notice some smoothing out after that first run. Also, you should see fuel consumption drop quite a bit at some point. I ran my Saitos about an hour before putting them on planes. I have a .82 that needs breaking in soon. I'll put an hour on it and set the HS needle valve then. I may lean out the LS needle valve some but not completely set until I have another couple of hours on the engine. Saitos take a while to break in, but they are smooth engines once there.

Fuel consumption will improve drastically when you lean it out a hair. I still run my HS needle on the rich side and have leaned the bottom end a little for consistant idle. I found, after two tanks, that the engine would run reliable and idle just as good so I sent it up and it has run with out so much as a hick up ever since. The fuel from the breather is coming from the rich needle setting, it will stop with time and leaning it out.

2 tanks through and the factory idle setting is very good. I am happy with it so far.

Sounds way beefy-er than my Magnum .91. I think I am a convert to higher quality engines already. Magnums are great for the price though.

I'm taking the first 40 mins of run-time very slow.

Does anyone know a good spinner for APC 14X? props? I have one that is just junk and I am breaking-in with a chicken-stick and NO spinner.

Thanks,

Mark

http://www.truturn.com/index.html

They should have something to your liking.

Thanks!!

Now I need to save-up some more pennies.

Yep, they aren't cheap but they are nice looking!

I agree with most of the previous advice except the 14x8 is too big. If you want a 8 pitch prop use a 13x8 apc. I have been using a couple of 82's since they came out and like the 13x7 and 14x6 apc's for sport flying. 10%-15% Omega/Cool Power/Wildcat for fuel. Fuel brands do make a difference so if one brand works for you then stay with it.
Make sure you lube the rocker arms and give the valve clearance a quick check while you have the covers off.
Break them in at under 4000rpm as the manual states then start leaning out the low end. They do not need two gallons thru them for break in. A prolonged break-in will let you get more familiar with your engine. I like to get the low end as lean as I can and have a clean throttle up transition. I can fly my 82's for 10 minutes on 7ounces of fuel. If you have any idle problems get an OS-F plug and save the original Saito-H-9 plug to loan out or give away.
If you don't already have one then get a good tach or borrow a good one. Don't waste money on a cheapo.

FEB

I use the glow plug that comes with the engine for break in and then put in an OS 8 when I am ready to fly. I never fly with the break in plug.

I don't really look for a good idle until it has flown a few times, and gotten good and hot with full throttle runs. I guess I settle for something around 2600 at first. When I break in this .82 I'll set the needle valves the best I can before putting in on a plane. Then, I'll check it again before flying. Things change going from test stand to plane. I'll probably put an hour on the engine before taking if off the stand and I'll give it more full throttle runs than my last ones.

I would go with a 14x4W prop not the 14x8. I think the 8 is too much pitch for the UCDo I have been flying an 82 Saito in my 46 UCDo for quite a while now and it does great with that prop. Big thing is you don't want to fly too fast with the UCDo or it won't hold up.

I have the fourth tank through finally. I had to re-mount the engine and shim it for tue-ness. I have been leaning it out just enough so it will run without the glow starter on the high end. The factory idle setting is around 3300, a bit fast, (any lower and it misfires a bit).. I will begin leaning out the low end after the 5th tank. It sounds very good and I am using a 14x4W prop for break-in. Lotsa air moving at my place even at idle.

I also installed a remote glow head. Now THAT is convenient. I think I will use these remote things on every cowled engine forever. I do not want on-board glow for this application, and I do not fly scale, so I will likely never use one. But...before last year, I had never flown at all, so I may become interested in scale at a later time.

I have begun running up the engine briefly and I think I can fly it after the 5th tank and some much needed needle tweaking. (insert advice here if I am wrong).

It hasn't even gotten hot yet, but I will take my time. I need the practice. I have 2 more arfs and a glider, (delta wing), to build and 2 more, (oops 3), more engines to break-in.

Hey, I am interested to hear how the remote glow works out for you. I put one on my UCD when I first got it but it kept vibrating to pieces and falling apart. Now I just reach underneath and attach the glow starter. Kind of a pain but it works.

LOL Rob,

I haven't flown it yet, gotta give it time to vibrate to pieces. I do like the remote glow thing though. It seems way easier.

BTW I have installed the 14x4W on the UCD and I took the 14x8 and put it on my Kadet today. I have a magnum .91 in there and it flies much better with the 14x8 than it did with the 13x8 I had. The next step is maiden for the UCD. Probably Monday. I still need to tidy-up the electronics and balance it, but that should be fairly simple.

I would like to get the engine tuned, at least well enough to maiden with the cowl. I can make any adjustments with the cowl on except the LS needle. I'll just drill another hole, I guess.

I hope there is enough cooling inside that cowl for my 82. The hole I have for cooling is only 5/8" square.