I think I got the wrong ESC... quick question
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Philadelphia, PA
As the parts trickle in from the vendors, I realize the ICS-100j ESC is for a JR receiver... problem is I have a Hitec with feather Rx. Can I just replace the plug to fit the Hitec RX or are there differences other than the plug itself?
Thank you
GP
Thank you
GP
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (76)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Wolf Point,
MT
just pay close attention to get the polarity right when you plug it in, but otherwise the plug should fit, and everything should function normally. the only time they don't is when you use a futaba-style servo plug on a receiver that's not futaba--even then there's only a small tab to shave off so that it will fit.
#3
Senior Member
My Feedback: (76)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Wolf Point,
MT
i don't know how much experience you have with things like this, but also be prepared to reverse the throttle channel if need be. seems to me that my futaba radio is bass ackwards to most brands of esc's, both brushed and brushless, and i always have to reverse the throttle channel, otherwise stick-down will be full throttle. always a pleasant suprise when setting up a new model.
#4
I think most current ESCs are designed not to turn the motor on if the plane is inadvertently powered up with the throttle not at idle, in fact, that's how you enter the programing mode on some of them. Most ESC's just plug in to the reciever as if it were a throttle servo. Futaba servos will work in JR recievers if you cut off that little tab with an Exacto knife. You may also have to bevel one side of the plug. Since the positive (hot) wire is in the center on both JR and Futaba, the only thing that happens when you plug in backwards is the signal and ground wires are reversed and the servo doesn't work.
BTW, the positive and the ground plugs on the reciever are just common busses. You can plug your battery into any unused channel and power the reciever. That's why a battery eliminator ESC does not have a separate "battery" lead coming out of it. It just powers the reciever through the throttle channel.
BTW, the positive and the ground plugs on the reciever are just common busses. You can plug your battery into any unused channel and power the reciever. That's why a battery eliminator ESC does not have a separate "battery" lead coming out of it. It just powers the reciever through the throttle channel.
#6
Just one more thing.
On Futaba servos, the + is red, the - is black, and the signal wire is white.
On JR servos, the + is red, the - is brown, the signal wire is orange.
Airtronics servos and radios do (or did) not have the + lead in the center and can only be used with Futaba or JR after the wires on the plug are interchanged.
On Futaba servos, the + is red, the - is black, and the signal wire is white.
On JR servos, the + is red, the - is brown, the signal wire is orange.
Airtronics servos and radios do (or did) not have the + lead in the center and can only be used with Futaba or JR after the wires on the plug are interchanged.
#8
Even though most ESCs have throttle safety arming built in take caution anyway. I have an ESC in one of my planes that clearly says it will not engage until the throttle is off. I have the Futaba ESC rev syndrome and the first time I powered up to setup servo directions and trims it flew right off my workbench.
edit: Oh and one more thing, provided your ESC safety does work properly it may not arm until both your throttle stick and trim switches are both at their lowest positions.
edit: Oh and one more thing, provided your ESC safety does work properly it may not arm until both your throttle stick and trim switches are both at their lowest positions.
#9
It's not a bad idea to remove the prop before powering up the plane on the workbench to make servo adjustments. Then, if the motor starts by surprise, the plane won't fly off the bench, blow a whole bunch of papers and small parts off the bench, or injure you.
#10
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Philadelphia, PA
I definetly don't need it flying off the kitchen table! (that's my workbench until my wife kicks me off it...)
They are calling for rain all weekend and into next week [>:] so I should have plenty of time to get acquainted with everything...
One more question... when people fly 3 chanel planes, do you stick to the mode 2 layout or prefer the rudder control on the right stick along with elevator?
Thanks
GP
They are calling for rain all weekend and into next week [>:] so I should have plenty of time to get acquainted with everything...
One more question... when people fly 3 chanel planes, do you stick to the mode 2 layout or prefer the rudder control on the right stick along with elevator?
Thanks
GP
#11
I have always used the right stick for the rudder on 3-channel planes that don't use ailerons. The roll that results from rudder use is so similar to ailerons that you can just pretend that the plane has ailerons while flying. You can even do a roll by just using the rudder. If your radio features mixing, you can mix the left stick to the aileron channel so that both sticks work the rudder, this lets you practice using the left stick for the rudder while still having the right stick controlling the rudder.
The rudder on 4 channel planes.....it's not just for taxiing!!! Learn to use it!!
The rudder on 4 channel planes.....it's not just for taxiing!!! Learn to use it!!



