DominicM

Would appreciate some advice. I have flown ARTFs for a couple of years but would now like to build from a plan.

This may be a really dumb question but what is the most effective way to cut the pieces I mark out on the sheet balsa ? Use a very sharp scalpel ? Is there a wizard piece of equipment out there that makes the job easier.

No I can't afford a laser cutter.

Any help appreciated.

Also, are there any good sites for getting free or plans for 3D/aerobatic/profile planes for a fair price ?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

You may want to try building one of the newer kits before jumping into a venture like this but...

To answer your questions, a scroll saw is what I use for cutting most pieces. In many cases (like if your ribs ar all the same shape) stack the pieces, cut, and sand to a uniform size.

Kevlar

My Feedback: (47)

Depending on the thickness and intricacy of the wood you’re trying to cut (e.g. ribs vs. formers), may I suggested looking into something like a scroll saw or band saw. There have been discussions on versatility of these units, do a search on either scroll saw or band saw.

Hope that helps.

Goinstraightup

My Feedback: (26)

I've built 4 planes from plans and built about 25 kits. There will be some contention about this, but usually a kit is cheaper. Case in point: I spent about $160 for everything to build a Cloud Dancer 60 from RCM plans (this is with all of the parts and hardware). This was before Ace Kitted, then ARF'd it. The kit was way cheaper and then you don't have to do all the work. If you are looking to save money, as it looks like from the bottom of your post, then you should buy a kit. The ONLY case where I have ever heard of people saving money by building from plans is when a club gets together and buys a large amount of wood and makes many "kits"for one design.

If you decide to spend the money and go for it, then an exacto knife will do fine for a small plane or a glider, but for anything 40 sized or bigger you will want to have a band saw and a belt sander. Put your plan on your wood with 3M double stick tape. They even make a kind that comes off good. Then cut around the lines leaving about 1/16th of an inch. Then belt sand right to the lines. Make yourself a "kit" then just build it like any other. I'm sure a search on "plans building" here on RCU will give lots of info.

TerrellFlyer

if you build a kit plane from the plans then most if not all of the wood is already cut out,if you are going to scratch build from plans then with the limited amount of building experience and tools I think you'll be fighting a losing battle but you'll need the wood and glass parts,band saw,razors,drills,sguares.I do not buy prints unless they are from a reputed seller,most on the web are copies which to me is thieft.

DominicM

Thanks for all the replies.

A prime reason for wanting to build from plan is down to the availability and cost of kits in the UK. Looking at US prices I can understand the reasoning behind buying a kit but over here with prices being 50% to 100% more I'm sure building from plan would work out cheaper.

Does anyone know where I can download plans online ? I want to try a profile based model first.

ctdahle

Ditchit,

For your first couple of plans-built models I'd refrain from buying a scroll or band saw, not really worth the money unless you are going to do a LOT of plans building, especially with prices being what they are in the UK.

The thin parts, up to about 5 mm, you should be able to cut out with an x-acto knife (a fine modelling knife, similar to a scalpel). Thicker than that, use a coping saw, which is a fine cutting frame saw with a thin blade. For fast straight cuts, use a razor saw, which kind of looks like a small meat clever. Another good tool to have on hand is a carpenter's utility knife. These use a fairly large, reversable razor blade. All of these tools are available from your local DIY shop, and shouldn't cost you more than a dozen Nuggets all together.

For (in my opinion) a good article on what tools to buy to get started and how to set up a workshop, see Setting up a Basic Workshop at http://webpages.charter.net/rcfu/Beg...cWorkshop.html

For a few good plans to get started in scratch building, see the plans section at the Charles River Radio Control Club http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles.htm

Also, check your news stand for copies of Aeromodeller International. It always has lots of good tips on plans building and usually includes a full sized plan as a centre spread. It's too bloody expensive for me to buy over here, but it's relatively cheap on your side of the pond.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Ask aroung in the "Fun Fly" forum. There are lots of profile fliers there.

Trucker-RCU

Here is somewhere you can look for plans, http://www.rccombat.com check out links to plans and kits.
Turnkey.com has what they call short kits, have all the hard stuff already cut out. Looks pretty cool. Might want to chk some of the other AMA SIG groups, many have links to plan sites.

DominicM

Thanks for all the advice on this one. Found the guys at 'The Aussie Shed' with the Sirex Wasp plan. Full plan with an illustrated manual as well. Just waiting for my balsa to arrive before I get cracking.

Slug

Ditchit,

I have built a couple of models from plans and am part way through two more. My reasoning is the additional choice of subject this allows where kits simply do not exist.

Don't worry at this stage about power tools like band saws, I do not have one (more on grounds of having nowhere to put it rather than cost) and have not felt it a problem.

I do have a Dremel type mini drill, very useful.

When you are cutting shapes out of wood, cut slightly oversize and sand back to your line, I find it easier to be more accurate that way, (one slip of the knife and it's all over, you can' add material back to an undersized component!).

For sanding etc take a look at 'Permagrit' tools they make several sanding blocks and profiled files, these are the most useful items in my tool box and are in use during every building session, not cheap but well worth it in the long run. They do have a website, do a search on 'Permagrit'.

Hope this helps.

Simon.

BingoFlyer

I'm not sure where Goinstraightup is buying is materials but When I built my Bingo I had $26 in Materials ($13 of which was for the landing gear) I did reuse the engine mount and some control horns but it was still much cheaper than the $86 that Ace wanted for the kit. I have enjoyed similar savings I every plane I have built from plans.

I used a Band saw to cut most of the parts stacking the ribs and cutting to the outside of mark and the sanding on a vertical belt sander to the exact size.

The Liteply I cut using an Exacto knife and use several pass with each one more pressure. It took about 5-6 hours to cut all parts to make a kit.

At the time I started building from plans I had a 90 mile round trip to the LHS so I built most every thing from plans and got very proficient at cut out kits and still build this way even with a LHS much nearer.

One advantage building from plans gives you is that you don't have to show up at the field with the same plane that every one else thinks is great at the time or you can have them before the become kitted by the manufacture.

Goinstraightup

My Feedback: (26)

Hey Bingo Flyer,

I'd like to know where you by your materials? What size Bingo was that? The balsa supply places are way cheaper than the LHS and they all charge $8 to ship. So you got the materials for your bingo for $5?????

Last winter I built a GP Big Stick 40 from my plans because they don't kit it anymore. I had a huge sheet of 1/8 ply, so I didn't have to order that. My wood cost $25 and $8 to ship. Some parts I had too, but if I would have had to buy wing bolts, landing gears, motor mounts, and every single piece of hardware I would have had close to $100 dollars in it. I'm including wheels, gas tank, lines and everything except engine and radio.

As I said in my earlier post, there are times when a person can save money plans building, but for most people kits are a better value.

I too like to have something different at the field. That's why I was so bummed when Ace kitted the plane I built from plans .

BingoFlyer

Goinstraightup

I buy my wood from either Balsa USA or Lone Star and like I said build only (almost) from plans, so I buy my wood in bulk. I bundle all wood via size and and keep track of the price per sheet. MY orders are usually $150- $300 and that builds about five years worth of planes.

I noticed I your estimate of cost that you included items that are not included in any kits that I have built (Wheels, tank, fuel lines, engine mounts ((I will not use those fiber fill plastic mounts)) etc.). If I included that in my estimate my cost would go up but if I kit built I would still have to buy them also.

The order of wood that I built my Bingo from built a 4-60 (a shoulder winged Bingo) two Bingos and a Goldberg Cub that I built from plans of one that I had built and sold, and a Taurus(Kazmirski's design from the 60s) and I still had a lot of wood left over.

The Bingos were the original Bingo .60 sized I used a O.S. 91 Surpass and the 4-60 uses the same wing but shoulder mounted.

DominicM

OK, thanks again for all the replies. Another stupid question but if I have the plan on paper how do I transfer the outlines of the ribs etc onto the balsa so I can start cutting ? There's normally a good and a bad way to do everything and I guess you only find the best way by asking !

EXCAP232

My Feedback: (12)

Options:
1. Make a copy and use removable contact cement to attach to the wood. Cut through the paper pattern then remove the pattern.

2. Make a copy and put the print side onto the wood. Apply heat from and iron which will transfer the ink to the wood. (This is my fovorite method as it is quick and accurate).

3. Make a plastic template to trace around onto the wood with a marker.

:thumbup:

EXCAP232

BingoFlyer

Take your plans to Kinkko (spelling?) and have two copies made, they may be reluctant if copy righted but usually do it if you tell them what you want the copies for.

Use one of the copies to build from and the other to make templates of parts either of the above posts will work for getting the pattern to your wood, I use a product called SeeTemp, it is a frosted plastic that you can see through and just place over the plan and scribe with an Exacto then bend the SeeTemp and the template falls out. I buy several sheets of it when attending the Toledo show but think it can be ordered direct ( don't have an address).

Save the original plan (I tape or pin it to the wall behind the work bench for referance while building and then keep it for future use).

Good luck with you first plan built.

hobbykid

My Feedback: (10)

Question for Bingo flyer ?

What should a big bingo with a 1.8 moki weigh ?


Thanks Hobbkid

BingoFlyer

Hobbykid;

Sorry I can't help you on that one, my Bingo's have all been the sixty size and powered with a .91 four stroke.

hobbykid

My Feedback: (10)

Morning,, that sounds like a good combination,, I have a big bingo that had a crash. My wing is in good shape. Plane only
had one wing servo connected. I got it down to about 4 ft off the gound,, it was floating along,, I pushed the nose down, it inverted ,went in on it's top. It's very rebuildable. It did seem a
heavy,, moki w jtec muf and snuffer mufflers made for a lot of
weight. Total was 22lbs. Previous owner thought wings flexed
too much. He sheeted the wings with sig lite ply.. It was a
great flying plane. Thanks Tim

Slug

I use good old fashioned carbon paper.

Trace the part from the plan using tracing paper, place on the wood and use carbon paper to redraw.

I guess you colud put the plan on the wood and carbon straight onto it, but I try to keep the plans as unmarked as possible so I can use them again if needed.

Simon.