Hey I did what you said concerning soldering the black to the side of the speed control (bec) and I dont have any throttle control when I plug the battery up. The engines just runs wild. Enclosed is a picture of what I did. Can you be of further assistance?? I am trying to get the throttle to respond when I give it throttle on the control stick.

I see what looks like a blob of solder clinging to the "top/upper" side of the one IC (near the red wire) and the black wire on the right side looks like it was soldered in place with a cutting torch.

VERY sloppy work. Sorry.

I expect you have at least one short circuit on the board. Hopefully you have not burned up any components with excessive heat.

I've got to agree with Bruce, poor soldering job is probably shorting out the circuit. I'm not trying to be mean about it, but just trying to help. Do you know anybody that is good with a soldering iron?? If so can you ask them to help you clean up the circuit? Best of the situation is the circuit will run correctly after it's cleaned up. Worst of the situation is you will need to get a new ESC if this one has shorted out.

Hope this helps

Ken

I didn't mean to be cruel either. I solder for a living so I get very critical. Don't take it personally please. It's not easy to solder on a tiny board like that unless you have some experience and you can do a lot of damage getting that experience.
Ken is right about finding an experienced person to help if you can.

> the speed control (bec) <

These are not the same thing. The ESC drives the motor and the BEC allows the motor pack to power the receiver. A BEC can be a stand-alone device or, usually, a component built into the ESC.

themessenjah : dido to the other post but all may not be lost! Go to radio shack or some place like that an get yourself a Desodering tool, (No I'm not kidd'in) It'll clean up that bit of a mess you got there, then next time just tin the ends of the wires then apply the heat to tined ends an while hold'in iron and just as it starts to flow apply, there are folks on this site that are masters at this stuff, Lets hope they chime in, your bub, scoooper

instead of a desoldering "tool" get some of this stuff
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
used with a small iron (NOT A BIG GUN). carefully remove the wire you just attached ( we need to fix it up a bit).
Take the braid and lay in on the circuit board and apply the iron tip. It will absorb the excess solder. If there is too much solder, snip off a section of the braid and reapply. Remember to not apply the heat for too long and to allow the board time to cool between heatings so you won't damage the electronics. That one solder blob might "pop" off with a GENTLE prying but don't push the issue. Use the braid if needed. When done with the braid you will see that it has left a thin tinned film on the contact, CAREFULLY add a little more solder to that contact pad but NOT a lot.
Now for the wire. If the end has become mangled looking it would be best to just cut off a 1/4 inch or so and start over, otherwise gently warm the wire and when the solder flows you can "tap" the excess solder off the end. Be careful as it may splatter. If you cut the wire you need to strip back the insulation about the same amount as the other wire, be careful not to nick ANY of the inner wires or to "un-nest" the wires when you slide the insulation off. Use the iron and solder to "tin" the wire careful to not overheat and damage the insulation, have enough solder though so it will be able to flow to the board.
Now find a third hand, a friend or wife or mother whatever. You need help for this.
Have them hold the wire in place on the board contact while you apply the iron to melt the solder. They need one hand on the board and one on the wire. You need one on the iron and a second to hold solder in case you need more. Do not apply so much pressure that you squash the wire when the solder flows and do not add so much solder that it is excessive and do not overheat the board.
After soldering, remove the iron but hold the wire in place until solder cools. It should cool to a bright finish. If it is dull, pitted or "crackley" then the wire moved during cooling. Gently reheat.

good luck, that should do it if no damage was done before.

bruce88123 : talk about chime'in in! thanks,I for one learned a new trick ( an I'm an OLD DOG), never thought of wicking solder. good post'in my bub, your bub, scoooper

I have to chime in here. I have to disagree with the solder wick for this person. It takes a gentle touch and can require more than one application of heat which we don't want for the electronics.
A good solder sucker desoldering tool will remove all that lump in one heat cycle.
Make sure the board is supported so you have two hands to work the iron and desoldering tool.

You can tape it to an old wood board or stick and put the end of the board in a small vise to hold it steady.

Have the desoldering tool ready so as soon as the solder starts to melt you'll be ready to suck that blob from the board. Use no more than a 25-30 watt iron.

After the bulk of solder is removed, check the board carefully making sure there are no solder bridges
between traces or other components.

Now cut that wire back as all have said and before tinning it, give the strands a twist. It keeps them together while you're tinning. Then solder to board.

what was the cause of this wire coming off?or do you know.its possible it might have overheated and burned out the board and caused the wire to come loose.someone here asked if you did a voltage check in and out of the bec?just a thought.