i was wondering could i use titebond wood glue and put a plane together with this and just use epoxy for joining the wings and fuel proofing the firewall or should i use ca glue on some parts thanks mike

lot of people do it that very way.

I use all three. epoxy in high stress and areas that need to be fuel-proofed, thin/medium ca for the wings, medium/thick ca for the fuse, and titebond II for areas with large glue surfaces (epoxy too heavy and ca too expensive). Bear in mind that pieces glued by epoxy and titebond need to be clamped.

Unless you plan to fly off water there is no need to use Titebond II. Regular original titebond is easier to use and allows as strong a joint to be made. I assemble with CA to hold things in place or use "T" pins into ceiling tile or Homasote which is laid over my actual building board and then use a syringe with a large bore needle (sand or file the point off for safety) to add a small bead around joints. This adds very little weight as you can put the glue just where you want it. Once the liquid evaporates the film "fillet" adds a tremendous amount of strength and in not affected by shock loads like CA is. I have seen more than one plane lost to CA failure. There are considerable health risks with CA and virtually none with Titebond. I have glued firewalls into giant scale planes with Titebond and the joint is just as strong as epoxy and maybe even stronger if the joint is a good fit. If it's not then no glue will really add strength. Adding mechanical joints such as box joints (yes I do have a pet peeve of referring to these joints as dovetails when they actually aren't) will add tremendous strength. Pinning with small dowels or skewers (bamboo) is another way to add strength without adding weight. A pinned box joint would be ideal and is used in some model construction.

There is one place however that CA is really a good answer to construction. In open framework where end grain is added to side grain here is the procedure. Add a few drops of thin CA to the end grain of the piece(s) being joined. This will fill the pores of the wood as it acts as a capillary action and pulls the glue into the pores of the wood. If you just add the glue to the parts and assemble without this the joint will be "starved" which means the glue will be pulled away from the joint and strength lost. Finally add medium CA to make the joint. Nothing sticks to CA like CA. I still add the Titebond fillet to this type of joint afterward and have never had one fail. I have had some fail that were only CA.

Clamping of Titebond joints doesn't need to be for very long. It will gain 70% of it's strength in about 15 minutes. If you have stress on the joint then more time may be needed.

EXCAP232

thank you for all the input and help mike

I have seen people comment on using syringes in a couple of different forums and articles, and it sounds like it would be incredibly helpful, but I have yet to see any mention of where to purchase them. I don't know anybody who has a need to use them, nor anyone who works in a field where they can be obtained. If anyone knows where they can be purchased, please post.

Thanks!

Some refill kits for computer ink come with syringes and a blunt needle. You could probably find some in a local drug store. I don't know if they would sell them to you but I know they have them. They give us dosing syringes to give medication to our kids, then you would just have to come up with the needles.

Most wood working places sell the large syringes with a nylon or plastic needle/tip already attached. I used to get them for about .50 - .75 cents a piece but it's been a while since I bought them. I'm sure any wood working place would have them. I haven't checked at Lowes or Home Depot but they may have them also. Very handy to have around just for the purpose stated.

Veterinarian's, feed stores,and small sizes the lhs,all have syringes.

Hi armyrcer! i use elmers glue all and it works great! the one draw back is its slower to set up as compaired to c a glue! but its alot cheaper and it wont make you sick! BEST ED

Talk to your doctor about your need for a syringe... They will often give you one. The huge one you want for gluing a model is obviously not what a "junkie" wants... especially with the huge bore needle.

I use Elmer's Carpenter's glue for most of my wood construction. A quart bttle is inexpensive at the hardware store. (about what they charge for 4 oz of Titebond II in the hobby shop...) A quart will build a LOT of airplanes!

You can also use the syringe that is included with the injectable meat marinades that you find at the grocery store. It is a fairly good sized syringe with a metal needle of fairly large bore. Hey, kill two birds with one stone: get a syringe for your model building AND cook a great dinner!!

Elmers probond [NOT POLYURETHENE] is available in home depot etc. works just as well as titebond and is a lot cheaper I use it in most of my work and use ca only to tack things together. I use a acid brush to apply elmers to both parts and then put them together. It only takes a short time for it to set up good enough to handle carefully. When it cures completly it is about as hard a joint as you are going to get. IMO ca is just to brittle and will shater with a good impact. Maney ca joints in built up tail feathers comes apart just from handling even before the model is even finished. When I said probond there more than one type. You need the intereir use kind yellow carpenders glue not exterior or polyurethene.

Just about all glues are stonger than plywood or balsa. Therefore as long as you got a good bond then the glue joint will not fail but the wood will. The decistion on which glue to use is mostly based on it charateristics of use.

What I use:
-thin, medium, and thick CA
-pro-bond instead of epoxy when I don't mind waiting - also it can be sanded much easier than epoxy
-12 & 30 minute epoxy

I use Weldbond. Is a white (latex based?) glue.
Very resilient, looses a lot of volume when dry, it dries transparent...
DO not use to laminate balsa pieces, it will warp them if you don't
hold them until dry. It takes 24 hours to fully dry but... if you spread it with your finger ig gets tacky very fast and holds onto the piece.
For fuselages I usually tack glue with CA and then complete the job with Weldbond.
Albert

Elmers Probond and carpenters wood glues are good products.
Franklins Titebond is better. It is a stronger glue. I have used both products with good results and commonly use the Elmers Probond Polyurethane to skin foam. The Titebond just works better in the alphatic resin (yellow) glue category. If you search around you'll find they are both priced in the same range.

Be aware of the health risks with all glues. The alphatic glues are the safest. CA exposure can cause various health problems including respiratory and skin irritations. Polyurethane glues produce some toxic fumes and also some skin probelms if contacted as the chemical that reacts to produce the bond is H2O
(yes > plain old water). The reaction that causes the glue to dive into the foam and balsa also will cause it to dive into your skin. Wear gloves and vent the area.

EXCAP232