NOT SURE IF ENGINE IS FROZE UP??
#1
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From: Charlotte,
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I have not flown my RC trainer plane in 2 years. I am going to start being trained on it again soon. I have a .46 TT Pro engine in it. The leaver that is hooked to the steel rod to the servo is the leaver that opens up the carb. when I try to push on the rod to get it to push the leaver to open the carb, the carb will not open or budge. The leaver does not rotate to open up the carb. I am not sure if it is froze shut or rusted shut or just because it has not been fired up in a long time? Does anybody know what may be wrong with it, or should I go buy a new engine?
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From: Green Cove Springs,
FL
This happened to me when I stored my planes last winter. I find that I can usually fix the problem by adding some after run oil to the carb and letting it soak and trying to break it loose. Also, I have never done this, I have seen members at my field add heat with a lighter and it comes loose. Once you get it loose see if you can take the barrel out of the carb(with help if needed) and make sure nothing more serious has happened than just being gummed up.
#4
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For the price of an engine i would try a couple more things before yng a new one.
First are you sure the servos is not keeping it shut. try unhooking it from the servos, any luck there?
there is also a possiblity that the motor is gummed up with castor oil. im sure someone will ringing in on the proper way to clean the whole engine but i have been told that if you can poor some FRESH fuel onto the crab (so it can sit/soak) there it would help losen the carb up. but this also leads to the qusetion, if the carb is stuck shut was does the inside look like?
Id think some will definitly chim in unteell then you cantry placing a fue drops of glow fuel in the carb and let it sit there
First are you sure the servos is not keeping it shut. try unhooking it from the servos, any luck there?
there is also a possiblity that the motor is gummed up with castor oil. im sure someone will ringing in on the proper way to clean the whole engine but i have been told that if you can poor some FRESH fuel onto the crab (so it can sit/soak) there it would help losen the carb up. but this also leads to the qusetion, if the carb is stuck shut was does the inside look like?
Id think some will definitly chim in unteell then you cantry placing a fue drops of glow fuel in the carb and let it sit there
#5

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well sounds like the old rusty carb trick to me most well all my glow engines are OS so my TT knowledge is limited, I would think get some WD-40 un hook your servo wire and carefully rotate the lever would be my first guess if its frozen with rust you might have to replace it (the carb).
does the engine turn over using the prop? do you hear obvious grinding sounds then yes probably get the visa card out and there you go. I have not ever had this happen to my self lucky I guess.my os carbs have a lever on one side and a nut like thing on the other not sure about the TT but if you have to really work hard a freeing up the barrel in the carb, turn it using a wrench not the lever, especially if it happens to be plastic.
you live by the ocean? I do and when I store my planes for long periods, I just oil them up and bag em with a rubber band to seal the plastic over the motor. going to check tower and see if they have a exploded view.
does the engine turn over using the prop? do you hear obvious grinding sounds then yes probably get the visa card out and there you go. I have not ever had this happen to my self lucky I guess.my os carbs have a lever on one side and a nut like thing on the other not sure about the TT but if you have to really work hard a freeing up the barrel in the carb, turn it using a wrench not the lever, especially if it happens to be plastic.
you live by the ocean? I do and when I store my planes for long periods, I just oil them up and bag em with a rubber band to seal the plastic over the motor. going to check tower and see if they have a exploded view.
#6
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From: Charlotte,
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I just put some 3 and 1 oil on in the carb area. When I turned the prop..it seems like the cylinder moves up and down freely with no grinding. just the carb hole will not open and close. I am guessing it is gumed up. Thanks for your help
#7

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didnt take long, first don't heat anything up with any flame!!! second it is 88$ to replace that engine from towerhobbies not to bad in case it is bad, if I was going to do that I would get a OS 46AX for 115$ but thats just me.
first looks as though the carb has a nut on the end of the shaft opposite the lever take some oil 3in1 is fine sewing machine oil is good or some fuel and just gently wiggle the barrel loose then rotate the lever until it feels smooth just don't manhandle the thing to break it free, you don't want to break the carb body.here is a shot of a OS 46 the nut on the carb side is by the lever yours should be opposite the lever, just use a small wrench to lightly wiggle the barrel until it loosens
first looks as though the carb has a nut on the end of the shaft opposite the lever take some oil 3in1 is fine sewing machine oil is good or some fuel and just gently wiggle the barrel loose then rotate the lever until it feels smooth just don't manhandle the thing to break it free, you don't want to break the carb body.here is a shot of a OS 46 the nut on the carb side is by the lever yours should be opposite the lever, just use a small wrench to lightly wiggle the barrel until it loosens
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ORIGINAL: StoneDeaf
I just put some 3 and 1 oil on in the carb area. When I turned the prop..it seems like the cylinder moves up and down freely with no grinding. just the carb hole will not open and close. I am guessing it is gumed up. Thanks for your help
I just put some 3 and 1 oil on in the carb area. When I turned the prop..it seems like the cylinder moves up and down freely with no grinding. just the carb hole will not open and close. I am guessing it is gumed up. Thanks for your help
If this doesn't work, put the engine in an oven at about 300 degrees for about 10 minutes. The heat will loosen the oil. Once the engine is hot, take it out, the carb will move while it's hot. Immediately apply some alcohol and move the throttle back and forth. Keep adding alcohol and moving it until the alcohol comes out clear. At this point, put it back in the oven for another 5 to 10 minutes to evaporate the alcohol, and then oil it up. I've had to do this to a couple engines, worked like a charm every time.
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From: Charlotte,
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Thanks for that Piper.
Do you think more then likely the engine is just gumed up and there is no rust? I did not drain the little bit of gas that was in it the last time I used it 2 years ago. I know nobody knows if it is rusted from not looking at it but might know for experience and if I get the carb loose it should run like it did when I last used it? Thanks for the help.This really is helping me
WOuld maybe a the heat from a hairdryer being put on it loosen it too?
Do you think more then likely the engine is just gumed up and there is no rust? I did not drain the little bit of gas that was in it the last time I used it 2 years ago. I know nobody knows if it is rusted from not looking at it but might know for experience and if I get the carb loose it should run like it did when I last used it? Thanks for the help.This really is helping me

WOuld maybe a the heat from a hairdryer being put on it loosen it too?
#10

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It's possible that you have rust on the bearings, but you may not. Based on the gummed up carb, it sounds like you were using fuel with castor based oil, which is actually a good thing. I had a bunch of engines that weren't used while I was out of the hobby. Out of all of them, the only one that had rust inside was the one that was run with synthetic lube fuel. The ones with castor were all fine.
Use alcohol to clean out the inside of the engine. Pour some down the carb and in the exhaust outlet. Turn the shaft back and forth a bit and then pour it out into a clean bowl. The color of the alcohol will give you a clue if you have rust or not. Once the alcohol is coming out clean, and before you lube it up, note how it feels when you turn the shaft. If you feel the slightest bit of roughness or grinding when you turn the shaft, it would be worth inspecting/replacing the bearings. A new set typically runs about $20-30, cheaper than a new engine.
Bearing replacement isn't too hard, but if you've never done it before, there's the potential for reassembling the engine wrong. See what you're up against before deciding what you need to do.
Use alcohol to clean out the inside of the engine. Pour some down the carb and in the exhaust outlet. Turn the shaft back and forth a bit and then pour it out into a clean bowl. The color of the alcohol will give you a clue if you have rust or not. Once the alcohol is coming out clean, and before you lube it up, note how it feels when you turn the shaft. If you feel the slightest bit of roughness or grinding when you turn the shaft, it would be worth inspecting/replacing the bearings. A new set typically runs about $20-30, cheaper than a new engine.
Bearing replacement isn't too hard, but if you've never done it before, there's the potential for reassembling the engine wrong. See what you're up against before deciding what you need to do.
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From: Charlotte,
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Thanks guys. I did see your posts big tim. THanks and thanks piper. I am going to run some alcohol through it after work today and see what happens.



