Glassing Avistar Wing Joint: How To.
#1
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From: Folsom,
CA
I'm thinking of glassing the wing joint of my Avistar. Has anyone done this on an Avistar, and if so, can anyone give me some instructions?
Thank you.
Thank you.
#2
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From: Nettleton,
MS
first off (i'm assuming the wing is already joined) decide on how wide your glass colth will be. for this example say 2 inches. from the center of the wing you need to come 1 1/4 inches in on both sides and remove the covering, top and bottom. the 1 1/4 on each side will allow a 1/2 gap to work within. after the covering's removed you have two options
option 1
tack the cloth in place with thin ca all the way around the wing top and bottom. i usually start at the trailing edge on the top OR bottom. after the cloth is tacked just go back with a epoxy brush and "tap" the resin (some use epoxy thinned) into the weave. another light coat may be needed to completely fill the weave.
option 2
take a brush and brush a thin layer of resin around the part where the covering is removed. lay the cloth, centered on the joint line, around the wing. take a plastic scraper, bondo spreader, or one of those "fake" plastic credit cards you get in the mail and squeege the excess out from under the cloth. go back to the brush and go over the cloth again to fill the weave.
option 3 (almost forgot this one)
you can actually use thin ca for the entire process, however, don't expect it to fill the weave all the way. just make sure the cloth is firmly against the wood and flow enough ca into the cloth to saturate the cloth good. you'll know when you get enough, the cloth will become "translucent" or almost see through.
hope this helps
option 1
tack the cloth in place with thin ca all the way around the wing top and bottom. i usually start at the trailing edge on the top OR bottom. after the cloth is tacked just go back with a epoxy brush and "tap" the resin (some use epoxy thinned) into the weave. another light coat may be needed to completely fill the weave.
option 2
take a brush and brush a thin layer of resin around the part where the covering is removed. lay the cloth, centered on the joint line, around the wing. take a plastic scraper, bondo spreader, or one of those "fake" plastic credit cards you get in the mail and squeege the excess out from under the cloth. go back to the brush and go over the cloth again to fill the weave.
option 3 (almost forgot this one)
you can actually use thin ca for the entire process, however, don't expect it to fill the weave all the way. just make sure the cloth is firmly against the wood and flow enough ca into the cloth to saturate the cloth good. you'll know when you get enough, the cloth will become "translucent" or almost see through.
hope this helps
#3

My Feedback: (13)
checked the manual, I have a NEXTAR and they are close in const.
really there is no need, really you would be adding weight instead of helping your self .
if you are wanting to do it for a lesson on how to do it, then remove the covering only to where you need to apply the glass aprox.1" to2" from center seam.
mix some 30 min epoxy thinning with alcohol about 10% so it flows easy lay glass over the seam so it overlaps aprox 1" on each side or more if you like, and saturate glass so the fibers are wet you don't need to leave too much extra use a card, either credit or playing, to spread epoxy smooth thats pretty much it the glass provides the strength so you don't need to over load the glass with resin it just adds extra weight.
really there is no need, really you would be adding weight instead of helping your self .
if you are wanting to do it for a lesson on how to do it, then remove the covering only to where you need to apply the glass aprox.1" to2" from center seam.
mix some 30 min epoxy thinning with alcohol about 10% so it flows easy lay glass over the seam so it overlaps aprox 1" on each side or more if you like, and saturate glass so the fibers are wet you don't need to leave too much extra use a card, either credit or playing, to spread epoxy smooth thats pretty much it the glass provides the strength so you don't need to over load the glass with resin it just adds extra weight.
#5

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From: Malden,
MA
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXL493&P=K
"5 oz: Perfect for wing reinforcement"
Quoted from Tower.
"5 oz: Perfect for wing reinforcement"
Quoted from Tower.
#6

My Feedback: (13)
#2 to #4 oz glass would be fine the strength is in the cloth, but when you get into heavier glass it soaks up the resin/epoxy and adds weight and you have to squeegee out the excess.
less than 1oz and you are not getting much for your effort
less than 1oz and you are not getting much for your effort
#7
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From: Fort Mohave,
AZ
Timex10... I did the bottom of my wing when I put mine together over 3yrs ago, she
has been in alot of stressful situations and she's still together today, IIRC, I just got
the thinnest cloth I could find at the hardware store, removed the covering and epoxied
in place, weight was no problem... I started with the LA 46, and now she has the 46FX.
Here's a pic...
has been in alot of stressful situations and she's still together today, IIRC, I just got
the thinnest cloth I could find at the hardware store, removed the covering and epoxied
in place, weight was no problem... I started with the LA 46, and now she has the 46FX.
Here's a pic...



