I'm a FREAKIN IDIOT
#1
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Just cut my hinge slots and glued on my rudder on my Sig SE. Well I forgot to cut my hinge slots and glue on my elevator first.
Man I even read a topic on here the other day where someone did that with a ARF version. Sometimes I just amaze myself.
This is NOT my first kit, shouldn't have posted it in the begginers forum, but thats how I feel.
Man I even read a topic on here the other day where someone did that with a ARF version. Sometimes I just amaze myself.
This is NOT my first kit, shouldn't have posted it in the begginers forum, but thats how I feel.
#4
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From: Tucson, AZ,
Is that a big problem?
Its been a while, but it seems to me you can still feed the metal joiner thru the hole behind the vertical stab, cut the slots install the elevators and you are good to go. a little harder to do it that way, but its not a show stopper.
Its been a while, but it seems to me you can still feed the metal joiner thru the hole behind the vertical stab, cut the slots install the elevators and you are good to go. a little harder to do it that way, but its not a show stopper.
#7
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From: Barnegat,
NJ
After a successful range check, I lined up and took off. The aircraft lifted and turned as it should. Really nice and majestic like... Went out to the end of the field and banked left, well almost. The aircraft rolled and found the only log anywhere on the field, and created the event where I choose my username... Seems I had never extended the antenna after the check and simply flew out of range. Real brainy...
Ed
Ed
#9
Even though I have a lot of experiance with glow engines, including some with 4 strokes, I recently managed to mount the rocker cover backwards, flipped the prop hard, thought it was kicking back, but instead it was the interferance of the rocker arms against the cover. The engine started on the second flip, then wondered why the rocker cover was loose. Ran good but power was off. Stripped one of the covers screws, broke the rocker cover, and bent the pushrods. Felt like a complete bonehead! So I guess I am in good company.
#11
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My Feedback: (47)
Was working on my MT Mustang last night, setting up the Aileron bell cranks so had the wing in right side up in the saddle, plane upside down in a Workmate bench. Well after some time came to the conclusion that a trip to the LHS was in order.
Went to refresh my drink, came back, and decided to work on the air scope. This required the wing bolts to be screwed in and the wing snugged up for a tighter scope to fuse fit. The bolts were totally off, I couldn't understand it, measured, moved the wing around, took it out of the saddle checked for warp....are you getting the picture.
Still standing over it, decided it needed to be re-drilled. In disgust I sat down at my chair shaking my head, wondering how the hell this could have happened. Looked over at the plane and noticed the wing was in right side up. Duh!
Went to refresh my drink, came back, and decided to work on the air scope. This required the wing bolts to be screwed in and the wing snugged up for a tighter scope to fuse fit. The bolts were totally off, I couldn't understand it, measured, moved the wing around, took it out of the saddle checked for warp....are you getting the picture.
Still standing over it, decided it needed to be re-drilled. In disgust I sat down at my chair shaking my head, wondering how the hell this could have happened. Looked over at the plane and noticed the wing was in right side up. Duh!
#13

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From: Benton, KY
Was epoxying my wing half's together on an ARF, Test fit them and then put the epoxy on and cleaned it up. Put some tape to hold the thing together and went back in the house for the night. I came back in the morning and the tape had slipped off and now I have a mess. The wing had rotated so that I was about 1/2" from straight. This is not my fist ARF, or Kit. Just one of those "what the hell was I thinking" Brain fart moments.
Used a dremel to cut it back apart and rejoin and recover that section. Now I just Tell everyone that It was used and the 1st owner was a rookie. HA HA
bh
Used a dremel to cut it back apart and rejoin and recover that section. Now I just Tell everyone that It was used and the 1st owner was a rookie. HA HA
bh
#14
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From: Tucson, AZ,
Woodpile,
I did the same thing once, fortunatly somebody yelled to me that i had forgoten my antenna just as it was lifting off, i was able to ge the antenna up and lucked out!!!
I did the same thing once, fortunatly somebody yelled to me that i had forgoten my antenna just as it was lifting off, i was able to ge the antenna up and lucked out!!!
#16
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My Feedback: (13)
I was thinking maybe I could just mount the engine on a servo controlled tray and just used vectored thrust to control pitch. That way I wouldn't have to cut my hinges. Course I'd have to buy a biger servo, esigne a working control system, modify the firewall.................................maybe I'll just cut the hinges.I guess I could cut the torque rod and run 2 pushrods but I have the fuse covered already and I'd have to cut into it to get the pushrods thru. I think, might look into that alittle more.
#18

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From: Columbus, OH
Originally posted by Spaceman Spiff
Is that a big problem?
Its been a while, but it seems to me you can still feed the metal joiner thru the hole behind the vertical stab, cut the slots install the elevators and you are good to go. a little harder to do it that way, but its not a show stopper.
Is that a big problem?
Its been a while, but it seems to me you can still feed the metal joiner thru the hole behind the vertical stab, cut the slots install the elevators and you are good to go. a little harder to do it that way, but its not a show stopper.
#19
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From: Ithaca,
NY
CHassan
Sounds like your elevator is nicely joined together already.
How about this: Cut elevator joiner wire at as severe an angle as you can. Cut section of brass tube at proper length to allow it to fit over wire and let angles come back together. Rough up the rod and or grind a little so the tube can fit over the rod with enough room to get a little slow dry epoxy on the rod and in the tube. As you assemble with the epoxy and the elevator fully deflected should be able to get the hinges bent into the slots. An extra pair of hands might really help!
I've never actually done this but if I was in the same situation I'd probably try it with some scrap first and hopefully avoid CUTTING OFF those nice new hinges. Good luck!
Sounds like your elevator is nicely joined together already.
How about this: Cut elevator joiner wire at as severe an angle as you can. Cut section of brass tube at proper length to allow it to fit over wire and let angles come back together. Rough up the rod and or grind a little so the tube can fit over the rod with enough room to get a little slow dry epoxy on the rod and in the tube. As you assemble with the epoxy and the elevator fully deflected should be able to get the hinges bent into the slots. An extra pair of hands might really help!
I've never actually done this but if I was in the same situation I'd probably try it with some scrap first and hopefully avoid CUTTING OFF those nice new hinges. Good luck!
#22
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From: Ithaca,
NY
MinnFlyer:
With my soldering skills I'd be afraid to use that much heat back there around finished pieces.
How about using JB WELD instead. Also, back up with some wire and, cut a little notch in the center of the brass tube so the JB WELD can release out and key everything together. The brass tube would go the full distance between elevator halves about 3/4"on the SE. It's really the angle(skarf) cut that mechanically keeps the rods turning together.
Cutting the rod could be a bear with a hacksaw. Make a square stick the dimension of the distance between elevator halves and about 7" long. Chuck it in the vise standing up. With the hacksaw cut down from corner to corner the depth of the blade. Cut a slot for the elevator joiner wire in the center of the stick. When you put the elevator assembly in and pointing down you should be able to get a good clean cut without any danger to the elevator assembly.
I know it's just a "matter of time" until I'm going to have to try my own advice!
With my soldering skills I'd be afraid to use that much heat back there around finished pieces.
How about using JB WELD instead. Also, back up with some wire and, cut a little notch in the center of the brass tube so the JB WELD can release out and key everything together. The brass tube would go the full distance between elevator halves about 3/4"on the SE. It's really the angle(skarf) cut that mechanically keeps the rods turning together.
Cutting the rod could be a bear with a hacksaw. Make a square stick the dimension of the distance between elevator halves and about 7" long. Chuck it in the vise standing up. With the hacksaw cut down from corner to corner the depth of the blade. Cut a slot for the elevator joiner wire in the center of the stick. When you put the elevator assembly in and pointing down you should be able to get a good clean cut without any danger to the elevator assembly.
I know it's just a "matter of time" until I'm going to have to try my own advice!
#24
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From: Ithaca,
NY
CHassan
I got real curious about this so I cut some wire and tube and put together with JB WELD. I'll report tomorrow when the JB WELD is good and cured.
I got real curious about this so I cut some wire and tube and put together with JB WELD. I'll report tomorrow when the JB WELD is good and cured.



!