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BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

Old 12-15-2006, 07:24 PM
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shd3920
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Default BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

TOWER HOBBIES TOWER TRAINER 40

This is the perfect high-wing .40 size trainer for the first-time builder.

Since Winter is coming in about a week or so [:@][:'(] (Merry Christmas to all) and flying is off til Spring (I finally got my field equipment, all but the fuel, and I am now eagerly and excitedly ready to finally learn to fly) I decided to do a beginner's thread here, with one of my early Christmas gifts I got myself, for you members who want to join this great hobby but are afraid to try your hand at building. Although I am no longer a beginner to building, this thread is to show those of you new to the hobby the thrill of building with your own hands, and to see that it really is quite simple.

I will be using a O.S Max 40LA .40 engine for the power, and a Tower Hobbies System3000 4-TH 4-channel radio system. I will be covering it as close to the original scheme as depicted on the box, using Towerkote white, red, yellow, and dark blue. Since they do not show the undersides of the wing or stabilizer I will have to do my own design with that, unless a member in this forum can show me a sample of the ORIGINAL design from the manufacturer so that I may copy it.

I will be using some new tools I just acquired for this build, which shall include Hayes clamps, House Of Balsa 90-degree alignment jigs, Fourmost Mitre cut tool, and a Slot Machine for the CA hinges.

So enough of the chatter, let's get to building:

Although the manual instructs you to cut the stabilizer section (as well as the other sections) away from the rest of the plan, I highly recommend keeping the plans in one piece.


Photo 1) The Tower Hobbies Tower Trainer 40
Photo 2) Necessary components
Photo 3) Take out all the necessary pieces to build the stabilizer and elevator.
Photos 4, 5 & 6) Be sure to measure all pieces prior to using
Photo 7) Mark the angled lines as shown on the plan onto the 1/4"x1"x10" balsa where you will cut the piece to shape
Photo 8) Cut with a razor saw outside of the line you drew, then sand it smooth to proper shape
Photo 9) Forward part of stabilizer now sanded to final shape and ready for next step
Photo 10) Outside frame and corner gussets glued and pinned in place using the 1/4"x1/2"x36" balsa sticks, 1/4"x3"x4" stab center, & shaped forward part just completed in past step.
Old 12-15-2006, 07:34 PM
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gumhead
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Default RE: BEGGINER'S BUIULD - Tower Trainer .40

Oh boy a local build! [8D]
Old 12-15-2006, 07:59 PM
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Default RE: BEGGINER'S BUIULD - Tower Trainer .40

Go get 'em Tiger . . . dude . . . 426

I will have to do my own design with that, unless a member in this forum can show me a sample of the ORIGINAL design from the manufacturer so that I may copy it.
Do it in a solid color which contrasts the upper surfaces and you'll have a MUCH better time of flying it. Easier to obserive it's attitude. Solid dark blue with white blaze stripes near the ends of the wings, for instance.
Old 12-15-2006, 08:00 PM
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shd3920
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Default RE: BEGGINER'S BUIULD - Tower Trainer .40

QUESTION: Where do I find the decals depicted on the box that did not come with the kit? In order to duplicate the design on the box I need the wing decals, fin decal, and another fuselage decal for the opposite side. All they provided was a fuselage decal for one side. Also can I purchase the window decals that are shown on the box? If anyone knows of where to get them please let me know. As well as show me the ORIGINAL design of the wing and stabilizer undersides that is depicted by the manufacturer.

Thank you.
Old 12-15-2006, 08:25 PM
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Default RE: BEGGINER'S BUIULD - Tower Trainer .40

Tower Hobbies?

You can cut the window "decals" out of black or silver trim Monokote sheets. Make paper mock-ups until you have a design you like and then use them as templates to cut the trim sheets (they are sticky-backed).
Old 12-15-2006, 08:35 PM
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RCKen
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

There is no underside design. On a Tower Trainer 40 ARF that has the same design on the top of the wing as on your box, the underside of the wing is pure white. No design at all.

Ken
Old 12-15-2006, 09:14 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

wow, I think it is great that others get just as excited about building as they do building...go tiger!
Old 12-15-2006, 09:17 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

Skip the stock color scheme. Be creative. Be bold. A little imagination and you can have a plane that really stands out from the crowd.

Use a distinctly different pattern top and bottom. When it gets further away, you'll lose the color anyway. Its the pattern that makes it visible.

For example, here's a Nexstar I stripped down and recovered when another club member crashed it and gave it away.

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Old 12-15-2006, 11:21 PM
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shd3920
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

Stab bracing glued in now using 1/4"x 1/4"x36" balsa sticks. Starting with the straight pieces, then adding the diagonal.

Nice looking Nexstar bkdavy. How do you keep the black shiny like that? When I cover I still get the disappointing marks, streaks and smudges. As I am not new to building, my covering still needs quite a bit of work to be as shiny and nice-looking as yours.
Old 12-16-2006, 01:26 AM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

Calling it a night, going on 1:30 a.m

Pulled the stab from the building board, reglued all the joints with wood glue (initial gluing while on the board was medium CA) and filled in the small gaps and pin-holes with Elmer's wood fill. Letting it dry til later today, then gonna sand both sides smooth, and then do the fin.

I am still waiting for the accessories for my Slot Machine hinging tool, so the hinging of the control surfaces will be done at a later time.

Good night for now. See yah!!!

Old 12-16-2006, 01:21 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

Photo 1) Measuring the cut of the elevator. Use the ¼”x1 3/8”x30” balsa stick for the elevator and hold the piece against the trailing edge (T.E) of the stabilizer for proper length, don’t assume you will get the proper length by using only the plans as a guide
Photo 2) Keeping the line straight and accurate
Photo 3) Ready for cutting
Photo 4) Cutting the elevator to length with a razor saw
Photo 5) Cut on the outer side of the line, then sand smooth to proper length. The leftover piece is for the rudder
Photo 6) Tape the stabilizer and elevator together for the next step
Photo 7) This step is not mentioned in the manual but to keep the elevator edges flush with the stabilizer edges sand the two ends smooth with sanding bar until perfectly flush
Photo 8) Close-up of rounded front edge and stabilizer/elevator ends flush

Both sides of the stabilizer are sanded smooth but now I gotta go to work now but will be building the fin and rudder tonight.
Old 12-16-2006, 03:41 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40


ORIGINAL: tigerdude426

How do you keep the black shiny like that? When I cover I still get the disappointing marks, streaks and smudges. As I am not new to building, my covering still needs quite a bit of work to be as shiny and nice-looking as yours.
First, keep your work space clean. Second, work with large pieces of covering. When you're done shrinking the covering, clean it. If there's adhesive on the covering, use acetone to clean it (nail polish remover if you don't have straight acetone). Windex is also a good cleaner.

Third, make sure the pictures are taken at an angle in poor light - the scratches and fingerprints won't show as well

Brad
Old 12-17-2006, 09:57 AM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

Photo 1) Built fin and rudder last night. The frame of the fin and dorsal fin built with 1/4”x1/2”x36” balsa stick. The inner framework built with 1/4”x1/4”x36” balsa stick. Gusset in top corner from 1/4”x1/2” balsa. The left-over 1/4”x1 3/8”x30” balsa from the elevator makes up the rudder, which I have here roughly shaped and the top corner rounded. It is important not to glue the dorsal fin to the fin until AFTER the fin is glued to the fuselage
Photo 2) Tail-feathers taped and sanded smooth, edges rounded to shape
Photos 3, 4 & 5) L.E and top of fin, top and T.E of rudder, and top of dorsal fin all rounded to shape. The front and bottom of the fin are not rounded, leave them square for gluing to fuselage later. The bottom and back of dorsal fin are also left square
Photos 6, 7 & 8) L.E and sides of stabilizer, T.E and sides of elevator all rounded to shape. T.E of stabilizer is left square

L.E of elevator, as is the L.E of rudder are left square FOR NOW until hinges are installed, after which you want to bevel those edges to the V-shape
Old 12-17-2006, 09:03 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

I have the Tower Trainer 40 with a O.S. Max 40LA and I think it is underpowered. I have a friend with the same plane and he has a .46 on his. That's the way to go. I've also found that there isn't many second planes that a .40 is worth using on. If I were you, I'd bump up the engine size.
Chopper man
Old 12-17-2006, 09:52 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

ORIGINAL: chopper man

I have the Tower Trainer 40 with a O.S. Max 40LA and I think it is underpowered. I have a friend with the same plane and he has a .46 on his. That's the way to go. I've also found that there isn't many second planes that a .40 is worth using on. If I were you, I'd bump up the engine size.
Chopper man
Thank you for your advice, I welcome advice and comments from all.

Problem I have is the only engine of that size I have available is a Super Tigre .45 (pictures below) that is for sport planes (notice the extra large barrel-type muffler). A sporting engine can't go on a trainer can it???? Would that engine be good to use or too much power???


P.S: The engine I was planning on using was the one that came equipped with the kit as a combo deal at towerhobbies
Old 12-17-2006, 10:01 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

Tail-feathers were very simple to do, weren’t they?

Now let’s get a little more complicated with the build. Well . . . maybe complicated is too harsh a word . . . how about . . . a more technical build, as you have to be very exact in the measurements and placements of the fuselage parts, as the straightness and strength of the fuselage depends on how you place the major components and the gluing job you do. I tend to use a lot of wood glue for the fuselage joints as you will see in the following procedures.

Photo 1) Fuselage parts accounted for and categorized and ready to start construction
Photo 2) 1/8” balsa upper and lower fuselage sides glued together. Manual calls for thin CA to be wicked into the seams but the gaps between the parts are too great so I used professional strength wood glue, which I will use throughout the entire fuselage build, except for the high-stress areas such as firewall, formers, and landing gear plate. I will be using epoxy for those areas.
Photo 3) Four die-cut 1/8” balsa stabilizer bases carefully aligned and laminated into two bases ¼” thick.

It is very important before the next step to mark a right and a left side of the fuselage halves:

Photos 4 & 5) Glue the die-cut 1/8” plywood upper and lower fuselage doublers to the INSIDE of the fuselage halves. Before gluing in place I double-checked the fit and when satisfied glued them in place with wood glue, reinforced all around with thin CA. Got the right side of the fuselage clamped and drying while I take a short break.

Have to use my old clamps as my new Hayes clamps have not come in yet. My Slot Machine accessories are still not in yet either so the control surfaces will still have to wait. Supposed to be in some time tomorrow – we shall see.
Old 12-17-2006, 10:04 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

You could use the Siper Tigre .45 on the trainer but it is a bit much in my opinion. I have the ST. 45 with a Macs muffler on my Sig SE and it flat out screams; a nice engien for that plane. I had a Tower trainer a while back with a .46 LA. It was more than enough. As for your .40, it definitely won't have tons of power to spare but what do you really need for a trainer anyway? The only downside to the .40 is fewer options to put it in later. Just my opinion of course.
Old 12-17-2006, 10:43 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

ChuckW,
I couldn't agree more. I don't think it's so much that you have to much power with the .46 as much as it is that you can't really use the .40 down the road. In my opinion too much power is never a bad thing, you can always throttle back but it's hard to to get more power after the throttle is all the way up[X(] I wish that I hadn't purchased the .40[&o]
chopper man
Old 12-17-2006, 10:59 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

Thank you all for your advice.

RCKen, if you see this thread, what do you think? The .40 that came as a combo with the kit or the Super Tigre .45 sport? I value your opinion greatly, as you have helped me tremendously in the past? Your input matters. So if you see my thread please give your input.

P.S: Keep giving me all your opinions in this matter, as I will regard them seriously up to the point of installing the firewall. I will choose based on the # of opinions here.

Thank you all
Old 12-17-2006, 11:09 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

Ok, here's my 2¢ worth. I actually learned to fly on the Tower Trainer 40, and it had an OS 40 FP, which would be the equivalent of an OS 40 LA. I learned on that plane, and actually have taught 8 or 9 others on that plane. It's got 600+ flights on it and it's still flying to this day. The engine is to the point that I can't start it with a chicken stick anymore, the only way I can get it to start is to put an electric starter on it. So....... a 40 is more than enough for it. Too many people these days think that "bigger is better", which isn't always true. If the truth be known, a smaller engine on a trainer can actually be a good thing. Because the student learns to fly the wing, and not flying the engine. If you put a 45/46 on it you will have too much power and spent most of the time at half throttle anyway, but if you learn to rely on massive amounts of power to get out of trouble then you never really learn to "fly" the plane. But with a 40 on it everything you do will be on the wing.

And if the truth be known, my Tower Trainer with the 40 on it will do just about every maneuver that I know how to do. So the 40 isn't really "underpowered" like some will try to lead you to believe.

Hope this helps

Ken
Old 12-17-2006, 11:22 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

ORIGINAL: RCKen

. . .

Hope this helps

Ken
Yes Ken, as I knew you would, a very big help. Thank you. Your advice is worth well more than 2cents, at least a quarter anyway (just joking of course, you help us beginners alot more than you may think)
Good news ken I finally squared away my issues regarding my house and I now have all the field equipment I need for this coming spring . . . except the fuel!!! I am so excited and can not wait . . . damn this winter, I am already ready for Summer and my RCing experiences.

Although I am in favor of ken's advice I am still interested in others, let's here what you have in your Tower Trainer 40
Old 12-17-2006, 11:42 PM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

OK Tiger, here's my opinion. I agree with Ken, both for his reasons and for some of my own. I like flying on the wing instead of the prop. Everyone wants to let the prop drag the plane around through all of the maneuvers instead of figuring out how to make the plane and/or the wing do the work. I enjoy taking my admittedly overpowered (yes I like my planes fast too) planes and really pulling back on the power until they are just lumbering about the sky. Then I do loops and rolls and the like with them without them falling from the sky. Sure you have to gain a little altitude and then a gentle dive for speed and figure out how much energy the wing is going to need to perform the maneuver and come out where you want it. Not always easy. Once you get that down, do it again with the flaperons down. You really learn the slow speed handling of your plane that way. Low level cuban eights just above stall speed can get your adrenalin going.
Old 12-18-2006, 01:26 AM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

I've actually seen some .40 LA's that were broken in well, using the right prop than run extremely well. Our club races Sky Raider Mach 2's with .40 LA's. I'm sure a few guys have liberally interpreted the rules but you'd be suprised how well these things run. You might be pleasantly supprised. I definitely wouldn't want a ST .45 in a light trainer. If I'd had that on my first plane, it probably would have been a pile of sticks before it ever got off the ground.
Old 12-19-2006, 09:42 AM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

Doublers glued onto left fuselage side.
The next step . . . adding the stick frame.
Old 12-19-2006, 10:16 AM
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Default RE: BEGINNER'S BUILD - Tower Trainer .40

ALL THIS WORK WAS DONE LATE LAST NIGHT, BUT COULDN'T POST TIL NOW

RIGHT SIDE OF FUSELAGE:

Photos 1 & 2) Upper and lower 1/4"x1/2" fuselage rails glued in place. The excess past the stabilizer base will be trimmed off later after the glue is thouroughly dry.
Center stringer and vertical supports of 1/4" square balsa are then added and glued in place.
After the fuselage side is thoroughly dry I will have to sand the whole structure smooth to remove glue bumps and such, then it's off to build the left side.
I am still using professional strength wood glue at this point.
Photo 3) Excess ends at stabilizer base cut off with razor saw, then sanded flush.
Photo 4) Right side of fuselage side placed underneath the plastic film for the next step, the doublers facing away from the film. The left fuselage side is being built directly over the completed right side to insure accuracy.



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