Someone suggested that instead of using the Red Gold N Rods or the supplied black ones that come with a four star 60 kit, use dowel rods instead.

I think the object is to drill a hole through the center of a 1/4 in. or so rod, bend a 2-56 wire through it. Tie the wire down against the rod with thread and epoxy it.

Can anyone show me a picture of this? I'm having trouble seeing how to actual hook this up to the servo and control horn. Does the rod actually not secured in the fuselage? Is this any better than the Red Gold N rods? Seems like it will be heavier.

I used the Gold N rods in my first four star and although it worked, it was kind of hard to get it to look good at the rear.

They are a little heavier, but they don't change length with hotter/colder weather as bad as gold N rod. And no they aren't secured in the fuse by anything. They are strong enough to not bend so there is no reason to route them through anything. Sorry I don't have any pictures. I don't currently have any models using that technique. Used it in my trainer and easy sprot though....worked great.

Hi Hoppy,

Here is my setup for this wooden dowel setup.

I used a 14" long x 1/4" thick dowel rod. Drilled a hole 1" from each end of the dowel rod wide enough for a 914mm pushrod to go in, then used a 1/8" piece of brass tubing and cut a slot from the end of the dowel to the hole that was previously drilled deep enough for the pushrod to lay in real good. Took one piece of pushrod bent one end down to where I had less then 1/4" bent wire. I installed the bent end in the hole and kinda heavily CA'd it in place. Took a 1 1/2" piece of heat shrink tube and placed that over the two ajoining rods and shrunk the heat shrink tube. Once I did that then I put medium CA in the tubing area where it is over the metal pushrod to seal that end shut.

Do this on both ends of the wooden dowel rod. MAKE sure you have the pushrods cut to exact length or do all the above first and then make your cuts on the pushrods.

See pics.

here is another pic of it as well. Couldn't put 2 images on same page so I added a link to the other.

RS,

914mm that's about 36 in. So the total rod lentgh was roughly 14 + 36 about 47 inches? I guess I'm still kind of confused. Either you have a big plane or I don't understand.

Sorry wrong measurement. looked at the first number on the package.

You need to make the whole pushrod assmbly to the size that you need. I used a 14" dowel and the metal pushrods are about 12" long on one end and 8" - 10" long on the other, but these measurements will be different on your plane. This is actually for my Tower Trainer 40.

Sorry about the confusion.

Also I do not have these mounted to anything as like said in an earlier post they are very strong when designed like this.

Hope this helps out alittle more...

RS,

Thanks that clears it up somewhat. So at the rear of the plane the metal rod is the only thing exiting the plane? Did you have to bow the metal portion at all? Thanks for your help.

Hoppy,

Yes the metal pushrod is the only thing exiting the plane. As far as bowing the metal, well I had to bow it just alittle in order to get it out of the rear side of fuse.

Hope this helps. Any other questions feel free to ask.

what do you have against the pushrods provided in the kit?

On a four star 60 the pushrods provided will be better than a wood dowel pushrod (more rigidity).

if you absolutly want to put a other system, switch to fiberglass pushrods

that's only my opinion

leroifort,

I haven't tried them, but I read various postings here at RC Universe that they should be avoided because temperature changes will expand and contract them causing your trim to change.

my opinion is that before you can feel the trim change due to expansion or contraction you will be flying much more complicate planes than a four star 60.
But I am in belgium and here the temperature variations are not enormous, I have to admit that.

four star 60 is a serious bird, to me wood pushrods are good for low speed planes only , not for a 4*60 because they flex easy switch to fiberglass or carbon fiber.

I succesfully use wood dowels on planes like a kadet senior, and I don't have anithing against them, but on a 4*60 I think it's not judicious.

That's my opinion only

Does this help?

I thought that these types of rods were supposed to be better because the DIDN"T flex as much. Is this not true?

MinnFlyer, Yes that helps. So basically the wood rod is only attached to the metal, and the metal rods are only attached to the control horns and servo arms. Is that correct? If so, I would think that you would want to keep the metal as short as possible.

Leroifort, do you know where I can see examples of fiberglass or carbon rods?

here

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUF89&P=7


but ask somebody living in USA where you can find exactly what u want

Hoppy, You would put the metal rod on both ends of the push rod. But to be honest, I would just use the goldenrods. Yes, they do change with extreme temps, but unless you're flying Pattern or some other serious competition, I wouldn't worry about it.

I can only concur with minnflyer, I had already told you that in a previous post