Best way to break in the engine
#1
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hi guys,
I'm going to take my Nexstar out tomorrow to break in the engine (my first RC aircraft). I was wondering if anyone has any advice or tips on the best way of doing this? What methods do you think are the best?
Thanks in advance.
I'm going to take my Nexstar out tomorrow to break in the engine (my first RC aircraft). I was wondering if anyone has any advice or tips on the best way of doing this? What methods do you think are the best?
Thanks in advance.
#2

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From: Warialda NSW, AUSTRALIA
G'day Chris, again,
Follow the instructions that came with the motor, & don't try to get it screaming too early, & you'll be right.
Follow the instructions that came with the motor, & don't try to get it screaming too early, & you'll be right.
#3

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From: Petaluma, CA
Run a tankful of fuel through it at part throttle, as rich as it'll run, on the ground. I like to see raw fuel spitting out the exhaust. Then just fly it. Keep it on the rich side the first gallon or so.
#4

My Feedback: (13)
if its the RTF version then the engine has been pre-broken in for you just run it in the method outlined in the manual.OS engines require little break in even out of the box a simple run in with some needle adjustments out lined in there manual.
the OS46 fxi runs well out of the box at least mine did before you fly it you should have it thoroughly looked over by a expeirenced pilot and make sure it will pass radio check, my engine ran well on my NEXTAR RTF but would not pass radio check and I had to run the antenna outside of the fuselage to work properly.
a few tanks run in the engine with it tuned rich, before you lean it out for optimal performance.
the ready to fly plane has a needle limiter so you shouldn't be able to lean it out much
as it is.
if its a arf and you have a new engine that has never been run before then do it by the book it came with depending on which engine brand you chose each has there own break in routine some more involved than others.
the OS46 fxi runs well out of the box at least mine did before you fly it you should have it thoroughly looked over by a expeirenced pilot and make sure it will pass radio check, my engine ran well on my NEXTAR RTF but would not pass radio check and I had to run the antenna outside of the fuselage to work properly.
a few tanks run in the engine with it tuned rich, before you lean it out for optimal performance.
the ready to fly plane has a needle limiter so you shouldn't be able to lean it out much
as it is.
if its a arf and you have a new engine that has never been run before then do it by the book it came with depending on which engine brand you chose each has there own break in routine some more involved than others.
#5
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Yeah it is the RTF version. I just started it tonight and noticed that when I remove the glow driver the RPM drops a fair bit. I've heard that this could be to do with the amount of nitro in my fuel (its 5% as I was advised to run a bottle of this through it before I use a higher nitro fuel). I was told the other reason could be the glow plug driver but I'm using the one they sold me when I got the plane so it should be right.
I'd like to know what is the most likely cause and is this something most people experience when starting a new engine or using low nitro fuel?
Thanks guys.
I'd like to know what is the most likely cause and is this something most people experience when starting a new engine or using low nitro fuel?
Thanks guys.
#6
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
eek! you'd think they would have mounted the engine properly. Two of the screws mounting it to the firewall had come loose and one was almost half way out - it can not be tightened fully it just keeps turning so I assume its going to rattle loose again. The other one thats loose is right behind the needle valve so I cant even get to it!
Also while checked the spinner, both screws in the spinner are also not tightening fully and just keep turning, is this a problem?
Also while checked the spinner, both screws in the spinner are also not tightening fully and just keep turning, is this a problem?
#7

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From: Warialda NSW, AUSTRALIA
G'day Chris,
Now you know what we were talking about, so much to learn.
Get help, go to a club tomorrow, you'll be amazed what you will learn.
The reason the motor slows when glow removed is that it is running very rich, don't worry about it, that will be adjusted as required.
Now you know what we were talking about, so much to learn.
Get help, go to a club tomorrow, you'll be amazed what you will learn.
The reason the motor slows when glow removed is that it is running very rich, don't worry about it, that will be adjusted as required.
#8
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Thanks Alan, yeah I will do that tomorrow - you are very right, there is a lot to learn.
Anyway it was still nice to see the engine run for the first time
Anyway it was still nice to see the engine run for the first time
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From: Warialda NSW, AUSTRALIA
G'day Chris
Just wait until you start your first 160, swinging a 17" prop, or a 120 four stroke, man that is worth waiting for.
Enjoy flying, Chris.
Just wait until you start your first 160, swinging a 17" prop, or a 120 four stroke, man that is worth waiting for.
Enjoy flying, Chris.
#12

RTF doesn't mean Ready To Fly.[:@] It means Ready To Fix. OK, it's not that bad but whenever you buy a plane, new or used, always assume the worst and go over it thoroughly and check EVERY nut, bolt and screw for security. Loose hardware is not uncommon. Don't forget what the labor rate is in China and Viet Nam. Would YOU do good work for what they are paid either?
Ringed engines get broke in "sloppy rich" like nickj said but engines like yours do not have a ring and should be broke in rich but not extremely rich. Part of the break-in requires the engine to get to full operating temp which it can't do if running too rich.
Ringed engines get broke in "sloppy rich" like nickj said but engines like yours do not have a ring and should be broke in rich but not extremely rich. Part of the break-in requires the engine to get to full operating temp which it can't do if running too rich.
#13

My Feedback: (13)
mine did not run well on the rich side of the limiter range, and I flew mine on the leanest setting with the limiter on for at least 5 flights after that I had a minor crash and lost the little plastic thingy,I had to lean the engine out anyway to get it to run better, so it didn't matter.
I have retired the old NEXTAR and am planning to use the engine on another plane the 46 is a great little engine and will give you many years of great running as long as you take care of it, of course read all the manuals, the engine booklet should have come in the box with the instructions, it will help alot with understanding your engine and how it works.
as well, bruce hit it on the head check all nuts bolts and screws they might, or might not, be tight and "ready to fly" you will have to loosen and remove some things, muffler,remote needle valve, to get at the hidden screws and bolts they need to be secure for sure, and make sure your landing gear are fully snapped in, give em a good tug to make sure they won't slip out if they do then clear the holes in the gear of paint or any obstruction with a small round file or sand paper so they do "snap in" quite a few have fallen out in mid air because they were not checked before flight. once you have checked out your plane and deemed it air worthy you will be pleasantly surprised how well it flys.
I have retired the old NEXTAR and am planning to use the engine on another plane the 46 is a great little engine and will give you many years of great running as long as you take care of it, of course read all the manuals, the engine booklet should have come in the box with the instructions, it will help alot with understanding your engine and how it works.
as well, bruce hit it on the head check all nuts bolts and screws they might, or might not, be tight and "ready to fly" you will have to loosen and remove some things, muffler,remote needle valve, to get at the hidden screws and bolts they need to be secure for sure, and make sure your landing gear are fully snapped in, give em a good tug to make sure they won't slip out if they do then clear the holes in the gear of paint or any obstruction with a small round file or sand paper so they do "snap in" quite a few have fallen out in mid air because they were not checked before flight. once you have checked out your plane and deemed it air worthy you will be pleasantly surprised how well it flys.



