Proper engine shut down/clean up procedure?
#1
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From: Denton,
TX
Hi.
After a day of flying, what is the proper procedure for cleaning up and maintaining a glow engine (specifically an O.S. .65 2 stroke engine)?
Thanks for the help.
After a day of flying, what is the proper procedure for cleaning up and maintaining a glow engine (specifically an O.S. .65 2 stroke engine)?
Thanks for the help.
#2

I like to taxi in and while the engine is still running at idle either remove or clamp off the fuel line and let the engine run until it dies. Then quickly defuel tank. Some people will then add after run oil but I do not as I fly frequently enough that I don't feel it's needed.
#3
fooseball_movie,
Bruce is correct.
Depending on your airplane, I offer the following:
If the engine and fuel lines are exposed, and most of mine are, I secure the plane, re-start the engine, high throttle, pinch the fuel line and separate it from the engine. This burns the fuel out of the engine faster than the method Bruce mentioned. Then, if it will be a while before flying again, add some drops of After-Run Oil. I use Rislone. Others use Marvel Mystery oil or Transmission fluid, or buy AAO at the LHS. This protects the Ball Bearings.
I do not empty my tank, but merely pull the line off the muffler and connect the two lines from the tank together. This seals the fuel in the tank, as well as if it were in the fuel container.
If the fuel lines are inside the cowl and innaccessible, you can shut off the fuel on most fuelers by inserting the fueling probe. Then follow what Bruce said.
Good Flying,
Ken Erickson
San Antonio
Bruce is correct.
Depending on your airplane, I offer the following:
If the engine and fuel lines are exposed, and most of mine are, I secure the plane, re-start the engine, high throttle, pinch the fuel line and separate it from the engine. This burns the fuel out of the engine faster than the method Bruce mentioned. Then, if it will be a while before flying again, add some drops of After-Run Oil. I use Rislone. Others use Marvel Mystery oil or Transmission fluid, or buy AAO at the LHS. This protects the Ball Bearings.
I do not empty my tank, but merely pull the line off the muffler and connect the two lines from the tank together. This seals the fuel in the tank, as well as if it were in the fuel container.
If the fuel lines are inside the cowl and innaccessible, you can shut off the fuel on most fuelers by inserting the fueling probe. Then follow what Bruce said.
Good Flying,
Ken Erickson
San Antonio
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From: Charlottesville,
VA
I'll add a little to what was posted above. Even after pulling/pinching the fuel line, there is usually enough fuel left in the engine to run a bit more. I connect the plug heat and flip the engine several times until it won't even pop any more. If you have an electric starter, a couple of seconds is all it needs to fully clear it out. Then, like lots of others, a little after run oil (air tool oil in my case), a few flips to distribute it and I'm done.
#5
I do not empty my tank, but merely pull the line off the muffler and connect the two lines from the tank together. This seals the fuel in the tank, as well as if it were in the fuel container.
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From: BERNVILLE,
PA
generally not cansidered a good practice over time. the fuel will eventually soften fuel tubing causing it to deteriorate.-same for the stopper.
#7
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The reason that i have been told to empty the tank is if it were to crak in storage it could destroy your model before youarealize that your tank spilt
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From: Tomball,
TX
I empty my fuel tanks completely, as who knows when the next time I'll fly. As far as shutdown, I first empty the fuel tank, then restart the engine until it quits (out of fuel), and then add my own concoksion of air tool oil/mystery oil mix (two carburators full) and call it a day.
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From: Park Rapids, MN
Nothing to add excepting I'm a proponant of using after run oil. I use Marvel's Mystery Oil. Some people fear after run oil will destroy the O-ring used as a seal between the carb. and crank case. I guess I would rather replace this O-ring seal then damage the internals of the engine (bearings, rings, etc).



