Proper engine tuning questions...
#1
I hope y'all don't get sick of my questions...when I take up a new hobby I usually try to learn all I can about it. When I was running my engine today and taxing my plane around I noticed that it was rather tough at times to get the idle trimmed to where the a/c would not move forward but not die at the same time. Also, when it would idle properly it wanted to die sometimes when I would try to bump the throttle up. It especially wants to go dead if I try to go from idle to full power without going really slow. I guess I need to get the engine tuned correctly. What's the proper procedure for doing that?
#2
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From: Galloway,
NJ
Yellowhawk, have you completed the break-in process as outlined in your manual? if so go to the engine tuning procedures. and pay close attention to the Low Speed Needle setting procedure, This is the needle taht controls the air fuel mixture at idle up to quarter
throttle.
throttle.
#3
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
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Yellowhawk,
It's going to take a little bit of time before you start seeing a reliable low end idle setting. Sometimes it can take 15-20 tanks of fuel through an engine before it starts to settle in. Even the best people at tuning an engine will have a high idle on a new engine at times. So what do you do to keep the plane from rolling until you can get the engine broken in? Place a small piece of fuel tubing between the wheel and the wheel collar on each axle. You can adjust the tension on this piece of tubing by sliding the collar in towards the wheel. This will act as a brake to keep the plane from rolling as your engine idles higher. See attached diagram.
Trust me, this isn't a work around. Some planes you literally can't get the engine to idle low enough so the plane won't roll without doing a fix like this. I have a World Models Super Chipmunk that I had to do this to, and my engine is well broke in and idles very low. So don't worry about it.
Ken
It's going to take a little bit of time before you start seeing a reliable low end idle setting. Sometimes it can take 15-20 tanks of fuel through an engine before it starts to settle in. Even the best people at tuning an engine will have a high idle on a new engine at times. So what do you do to keep the plane from rolling until you can get the engine broken in? Place a small piece of fuel tubing between the wheel and the wheel collar on each axle. You can adjust the tension on this piece of tubing by sliding the collar in towards the wheel. This will act as a brake to keep the plane from rolling as your engine idles higher. See attached diagram.
Trust me, this isn't a work around. Some planes you literally can't get the engine to idle low enough so the plane won't roll without doing a fix like this. I have a World Models Super Chipmunk that I had to do this to, and my engine is well broke in and idles very low. So don't worry about it.
Ken
#5
I have completed the break in process as outlined in the manual. I did not go through the tuning procedure yet. I figured I could take the info learned here as well as the procedure in the manual and get it right. RCKen, thanks for the idea of the fuel tubing...I'll try that.
#6
It's not uncommon for the .46 FXi to continue to break in a bit after you fly a gallon or two of fuel through it. You'll have it pretty well dialed-in where the idle is a bit fast but reliable, then you go fly it three or four times and the same idle setting will "load up" a bit. You can then turn in the low speed setting another 1/8th of a turn or so, which will result in a lower idle speed.
The basic break-in proceedures in the manuals are important for the initial run-in period. Glow engines will often have a mind of their own, and they tend to settle in when they want to settle in. Just keep your low speed needle turned in enough that you can idle the engine for 10 seconds or so without the fuel loading up so the engine dies when you go to rev it up for taxi or takeoff. Keep your high speed setting turned in so that the engine sounds like it's near peak power with the throttle wide open, but it's still rich enough that you get a steady stream of smoke coming from your exhaust.
The really nice thing about glow engines is that they tend to settle in more and more as you run them. When well maintained, a two-month old engine will run more powerfully and reliably than a two-week old engine while a two-year old engine will be more powerful and reliable than a two-month old engine. A lot of folks on these forums who have been flying for a while are still running old and reliable favorite engines that they've had for many, many years.
The basic break-in proceedures in the manuals are important for the initial run-in period. Glow engines will often have a mind of their own, and they tend to settle in when they want to settle in. Just keep your low speed needle turned in enough that you can idle the engine for 10 seconds or so without the fuel loading up so the engine dies when you go to rev it up for taxi or takeoff. Keep your high speed setting turned in so that the engine sounds like it's near peak power with the throttle wide open, but it's still rich enough that you get a steady stream of smoke coming from your exhaust.
The really nice thing about glow engines is that they tend to settle in more and more as you run them. When well maintained, a two-month old engine will run more powerfully and reliably than a two-week old engine while a two-year old engine will be more powerful and reliable than a two-month old engine. A lot of folks on these forums who have been flying for a while are still running old and reliable favorite engines that they've had for many, many years.
#7
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From: Auburn,
WA
ORIGINAL: bigedmustafa
The really nice thing about glow engines is that they tend to settle in more and more as you run them. When well maintained, a two-month old engine will run more powerfully and reliably than a two-week old engine while a two-year old engine will be more powerful and reliable than a two-month old engine. A lot of folks on these forums who have been flying for a while are still running old and reliable favorite engines that they've had for many, many years.
The really nice thing about glow engines is that they tend to settle in more and more as you run them. When well maintained, a two-month old engine will run more powerfully and reliably than a two-week old engine while a two-year old engine will be more powerful and reliable than a two-month old engine. A lot of folks on these forums who have been flying for a while are still running old and reliable favorite engines that they've had for many, many years.
#8

ORIGINAL: YellowHawk
I have completed the break in process as outlined in the manual. I did not go through the tuning procedure yet. I figured I could take the info learned here as well as the procedure in the manual and get it right. RCKen, thanks for the idea of the fuel tubing...I'll try that.
I have completed the break in process as outlined in the manual. I did not go through the tuning procedure yet. I figured I could take the info learned here as well as the procedure in the manual and get it right. RCKen, thanks for the idea of the fuel tubing...I'll try that.




