Quick question....I sort of asked this before, but now I have a better idea of my frequency of flying, etc....I am using Cool Power 15% fuel. I believe it has 18% lubrication and it's total synthetic. Later on I will be flying at least once a week when I can but right now, since I can't fly on my own yet, I'm only flying on Sunday's at the field with an instructor. I don't get to every Sunday. Being that it's hot and humid here in the summer and really cold at times in the winter, I don't want my engine to rust. I've been told by some that the synthetic oils don't keep the engine coated as well as castor. Would it be benificial for me to use an after run oil? If so, how much and where do I put it? In the carb? I don't think I did ask this before, I asked should I switch fuel.....would it hurt to use after run oil even if I didn't necessarily need it? Thanks.

if you run your engine dry at the end of the day it helps to prevent rust, drain your tank and then run it out of fuel, if you are planning to fly the next weekend and you are concerned about rust then a little W-D40 in the carb for 2st engines, works to prevent moisture getting to the berings,there are a bunch of ways to store your engine for longer,ATF fluid works well,along with 3in1 oil, as well as pure castor oil when I am not running a engine much I use 3in1 in the carb and in the plug hole just a few drops then spin the engine without the plug in it a couple of times ,replace the plug and store it in a zip lock bag I am sure there are other ways that will soon get posted.

According to the Morgan Fuels website, Cool Power fuels are made with a corrossion inhibitor as part of the lubricant package so after-run oil is unnecessary:

http://www.morganfuel.com/cp_blends.htm

Simply emptying your fuel tank and running your engine dry before packing up for the day should be good enough to keep your engine in running condition.

Edit: I should admit that I wouldn't trust my engines to the advertising claims of a fuel manufacturer. I run my engines with plenty of thick, sloppy castor oil and I protect them with after-run oil whenever I put them away for more than a couple weeks' time for storage.

So, how much oil do I put in the carb and in the plug hole?

I use the Morgan Fuels Omega 10 or Omega 15, and have never used afterrun oil in my engines. I've opened them up, and the insides are thoroughly oily, so I believe their claims that you don't need after run oil. In fact, the corrosion inhibitor is probably more effective than just after run oil. I run the fuel out at the end of each day, empty the tank, and often leave the engines for weeks at a time (in the winter).

There are vast numbers of threads debating the need for ARO, and what works best. Believe the engineers that designed the fuel or not, your choice.

Brad

Yellowhawk, just a few drops are all that is necessary. Open the throttle, I usually put from 5 to 10 drops in there, and that probably is more than necessary. You can use Mobile 1 synthetic, by the way, (recommended by our club pro and many others) which is an excellent after-run oil. When you are done, leave the throttle open and hit the motor with your electric starter (if you use that) or flip the prop several times with your chicken stick to turn the motor several revs. Then close the throttle.. yer done. That will circulate the oil in and through the engine and give a good coating of protection.

Hey, no matter what the manufacturers of the fuel say about 'no need for after run with their additives', what's the harm in adding a little additional protection like a few drops of after-run never hurt anything, and doesn't cost a lot.

DS.

WD 40 is not recomended for the engines. Another choice is Marvel Mystery oil, available at any auto parts store. As mentioned, a few drops in the carb, prop her over a couple of times and you are done. As for needing to do this, the debate is on. I have been doing it since I got into RC 30 plus years ago and I have never had any problems with rust or engine's being siezed, so I think it is very important and I do it to every engine upon completion of a flying session. Good Luck, Dave

In and out of the hobby for 12 years...have never used an after run oil, nothing against them, just dont see the need..no engine problems...I would NEVER put wd-40 in an engine, I would think it more than likely would cut through any existing oil than be of any benefit...if my fuel doesnt come with castor oil,, I take the top off and fill it to the top with benol castor oil, mostly I fly 1/2A, those little screamers need castor....Rog

NEVER use WD-40, this is NOT a lubricant. Use Mystery oil or better yet "Air Tool Oil" like you would in any air tools at work. Air drills, impact guns or the like. And just a few drops 8-10 is plenty down the carb inlet. Cool Power doesn't really require oiling but if it makes you feel beetter.

Well I for one do trust the sales hype for Morgan fuels. Well, at least it's always done well by me!! I use nothing but Cool Power fuel and I don't use any after run oil at all. I've had engines that have sat idle for more than a year with no special treatment and they have zero rust in them. So my opinion is you are going to be just fine without the after-run oil. Especially if you are only going a week between runs.

Ken

I agree about the WD40, but a lot of folks still use it. I suggest you also consider using a good AIR TOOL oil, like Marvel AIR TOOL oil., It is very inexpensive compared to "after-run" oils, and its main job is to lubricate and prevent rust in air tools. You can buy those in small bottles almost anywhere and I just bought a case last time, got a LOT of engines. There is no need to pay ridiculous prices for after-run oil in my experience. Better to use it and not need it than to need it and not use it! Otherwise, there is always Boca Bearings. For what it is worth. Terry Joe

some of the orings in these rc engines we use don’t do well with petroleum products I would read what the manufacturer says. with that said I have always added some castor to my synthetic oil based fuels to bring up the oil content to about 20% and before synthetic oils there was castor. if I am planning to store an engine for a season then I will use some type of oil in the engine usually atf.the only problem I have ever had with castor oil is it tends to gum and makes a mess other than that I recommend the use of it.i have motors that are over 30 years old and still going strong. I attribute it to the fuels/oils,maitence and proper storage. friction and heat is one of the main causes of early engine failure. and these new engines with their ball bearings and a lot with abs construction and high rpms a little extra insurance never hurts. day to day flying I would say you don’t need any after run oil, I always use it but you shouldn’t have any problems. for storage over a few months I would use something atf.marvel oil, after run oil.

I have to agree with ken. I have used morgan fuels exclusively in my glow engines, and to date I have zero bearing failures and very reliable performance. I always tear engines down over the winter for a thorough cleanup and to check the condition of the internals,
after teardown I reassemble using royal purple 5w30 synthetic motor oil. I never run the engine out of fuel, I just pinch my exhaust deflector and let the fuel evaporate in the engine.

Want the extra protection of castor oil that you're not getting in Cool Power but like how Cool Power runs and want to stay with Morgan fuels?

Omega is basically Cool Power with some percentage of the synthetic replaced with castor.

It's worked good for me ever since I got back into the hobby. I sold an engine that had one year's worth of flights to a buddy who promptly crashed it. When he continued the disassembly to salvage some parts to rebuild one of his he discovered his had rust and mine was shiny and bright. He switched to Omega then and there.

It is wonderful to see that a number of pilots have figured out that castor, in use for well over 50 years, actually does something in a model engine. Looks sometimes like newer modelers are either allergic to castor or its taste. I always did say it is not synthetic v.s. castor, there are some very good properties of each. If you want a decent engine that will last between a long time and forever, just get yourself an Enya, break it in nicely with a couple of gallons of fuel, and then run either an all-castor fuel or a half and half like SIG Champion 10% in it. The idea that modern engines with better metallurgy and construction somehow need less oil to function is at best and illusion. It is good to see the Tower ads with the race cars next to the liners and pistons.

Another big "DITTO"

To use or not to use afterrun oil depends a lot on your location, in damp climates it will almost certainly help and certainly will not hurt anything. WD40 is a NO NO in engines, especially older ones that may have accumulated some rust anywhere in the interior cavities. It is not a lubricant but is a solvent. Another good substitute is any air tool oil as stated above or Rislone or ATF, all much less expensive than the after run oil sold as such and performs just as well. As to how much to use, more than a few drops. You need enought to coat the innards of the engine, especially the crankshaft and conrod bearings, usually about a teaspoon full put in thru the carb on 2 cycle engines or into the crankcase vent on 4 strokes. Putting it down the carb on a 4 stroke does little or no good.

I am not sure who came up with the WD-40 is bad for engines but here it is off the can first thing listed.

Lubricates-wheels,rollers,hinges, chains and gears.
cleans-grease,grime ,tar,adhesives,gum.
protects against rust-tools,firearms,spoting equip.
displaces moisture-to restore wet or flooded equipment such as;engines,spark plugs,power tools.

isn't that what you want in a lubricant and a protectant.
I don't use it for long term storage but for short term it has worked for me quite well I happen to live in the maximum rust area,4 blocks from the beach and my engines run fine every time I start them up and there not rusty.
I also use air tool oil as well as most all of the afore mentioned oils for my work.
I would like to here from the lubrication experts out there exactly why not to use WD-40, mabee I will stop if there is some compelling evedence why I shouldn't,BTW if you have rust in your motor clean it out before running it,it will not matter what oil you use the motor will be toast after you start it and all the rust particles score the piston and internal parts.
as for Marval Mystery oil if you go to the gas engines forum there are pages and pages of recomendations on not to use it for your engines

i have never used any after run oil before today. i just added a few drops of air tool oil just in case

Thanks fellas...if it can only help and not hurt anything then I'll put some in the engine when it's going to sit awhile.