What would be the best WW1 kit to build?
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What would be the best WW1 kit to build?
Well I'm looking for a first build from a kit and I always loved the rustic look of the WW1 planes... Was wondering what kit would be the easiest for a novice builder and also be easy to fly?
Lot's of choice out there and don't want to buy something I can't possibly finish...
Thanks all and keep up the good work...
Eric
Lot's of choice out there and don't want to buy something I can't possibly finish...
Thanks all and keep up the good work...
Eric
#2
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RE: What would be the best WW1 kit to build?
Eric:
As you said, there are an awful lot of nice kits out there. Do you have a favorite, like F4U Corsair, P51 Mustang, and so on? Great Planes and SIG make very nice kits. They are complete and the instructions are very thorough, but you must follow the instructions, not cut corners, nor start in the middle and work your way out... start at step 1 and go from there.
Now, as far as flying them is concerned, this all depends on your flying skills. Warbirds are, by design, not very stable. That's why they are so 'maneuverable'. They can tend to be a hand full and often land hot (fast). If you tend to slow them down, they may tip stall on you and that's that.
Hey, when I was a real novice.. meaning, I had not yet even solo'ed nor had I flown more than three or four flights on my trainer, and this goes back a few years, I got into a project to build a F4U Corsair. I loved that design. Well, I got through the wings and started the fuselage and then I was transferred across the country from northern California to New York City, and that was that. I ended up selling the incomplete Corsair to one of the guys that was really interested in building it. He was leaving NYC for parts unknown, but to where they did fly RC at the time.
Good luck.
DS.
As you said, there are an awful lot of nice kits out there. Do you have a favorite, like F4U Corsair, P51 Mustang, and so on? Great Planes and SIG make very nice kits. They are complete and the instructions are very thorough, but you must follow the instructions, not cut corners, nor start in the middle and work your way out... start at step 1 and go from there.
Now, as far as flying them is concerned, this all depends on your flying skills. Warbirds are, by design, not very stable. That's why they are so 'maneuverable'. They can tend to be a hand full and often land hot (fast). If you tend to slow them down, they may tip stall on you and that's that.
Hey, when I was a real novice.. meaning, I had not yet even solo'ed nor had I flown more than three or four flights on my trainer, and this goes back a few years, I got into a project to build a F4U Corsair. I loved that design. Well, I got through the wings and started the fuselage and then I was transferred across the country from northern California to New York City, and that was that. I ended up selling the incomplete Corsair to one of the guys that was really interested in building it. He was leaving NYC for parts unknown, but to where they did fly RC at the time.
Good luck.
DS.
#3
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RE: What would be the best WW1 kit to build?
Dick, he said WW ONE
Eric, Unfortunately, "WWI" and "EASY" don't usually go together.
You also didn't mention size, but here's is one of the "Easier" kits available - It's a 91 (4-stroke) size SE-5
http://www.dynaflite.com/airplanes/dyfa3045.html
Eric, Unfortunately, "WWI" and "EASY" don't usually go together.
You also didn't mention size, but here's is one of the "Easier" kits available - It's a 91 (4-stroke) size SE-5
http://www.dynaflite.com/airplanes/dyfa3045.html
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RE: What would be the best WW1 kit to build?
I'm in agreement with Mike, WW1 and Easy do not fit in the same sentence.
As rustic as the planes may look the designers were in the throws of developing a new science - as such the planes were basic and dangerous to all (especially the pilots).
As we are in the 'Beginners' forum I must assume that Eric is just getting into the hobby so he has a few wild ideas about how things work ... sorry guy; but we will have to burst a few bubbles here... [&o]
The WW1 planes were Tail draggers, this is a fine design but it takes some time to master the ground handling - they tend to ground loop if you use too much power too fast.
They had thick wings in order to give maximum lift as they were under powered and with the tail dragger they sat at a high angle of attack which means you have to be careful on your roll out or you could 'jump' into the air before you have achieved flying speed and then they stall ... (trust me on THAT ONE) []
The bottom line here is that they are a poor trainer and take a fair amount of skill to master - I would suggest that you continue to look for a WW1 plane to build over a season or two, and take a bit more time to hone your flying skills. [sm=thumbup.gif]
Good Luck!
As rustic as the planes may look the designers were in the throws of developing a new science - as such the planes were basic and dangerous to all (especially the pilots).
As we are in the 'Beginners' forum I must assume that Eric is just getting into the hobby so he has a few wild ideas about how things work ... sorry guy; but we will have to burst a few bubbles here... [&o]
The WW1 planes were Tail draggers, this is a fine design but it takes some time to master the ground handling - they tend to ground loop if you use too much power too fast.
They had thick wings in order to give maximum lift as they were under powered and with the tail dragger they sat at a high angle of attack which means you have to be careful on your roll out or you could 'jump' into the air before you have achieved flying speed and then they stall ... (trust me on THAT ONE) []
The bottom line here is that they are a poor trainer and take a fair amount of skill to master - I would suggest that you continue to look for a WW1 plane to build over a season or two, and take a bit more time to hone your flying skills. [sm=thumbup.gif]
Good Luck!
#6
RE: What would be the best WW1 kit to build?
They're not the big relaxing kites you think they would be!! my BUSA 1/4 scale se5a is one of my few "appropriately" powered planes, meaning it has zero vertical abilities. It's 20 lbs with a G38. It's flown on the wing; turns cost some altitude, and are best done with rudder and aileron together. Landings are actually easy, as long as the tail is kept up until airspeed bleeds off as the high angle of attack when the tail touches down will pop the plane back up in the air. A moderate breeze really shoves these planes around with all that wing & drag. The good news is that with those huge wheels & forward placement, they handle long grass & rough fields very well. OK, a DR-1 triplane may be a different story......
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RE: What would be the best WW1 kit to build?
Hi guys,
I know that most of the WW1 plane are hard to fly, but I was told that the Taube 40 and the Elder 40 was two kit that was easier to build and to fly... What do you think? That is why I was wondering if it was true and also if there was any other kit that was in the same category...
Eric
I know that most of the WW1 plane are hard to fly, but I was told that the Taube 40 and the Elder 40 was two kit that was easier to build and to fly... What do you think? That is why I was wondering if it was true and also if there was any other kit that was in the same category...
Eric
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RE: What would be the best WW1 kit to build?
I was looking at my hobby shop and the two kits are around the same price... The only difference is that the Elder is a Gold Edition CAD engineering and it says that it's made more precise and practicaly dummy proof... (That is a good thing for me...)
http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=TOPA0215
http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=TOPA0215
#10
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RE: What would be the best WW1 kit to build?
For the sake of argument, I'm assuming you have flying experience, but haven't built much. Some great WWI kits to build, and won't break the bank, are, in no particular order:
1-Balsa USA Bristol M-1. It's a monoplane (60 inch wingspan), and I've seen them fly with a .46 two stroke, I have an .80 Saito on mine, more than it needs. The fuse is a box structure up front and a box truss in back, with formers and longerons to give it the proper shape. The most complex part of building it is laminating the outer half of the wing's curved leading edges. It is a blast to fly, and handles like a typical mid wing sport model.
2-BUSA Eindecker 40. Another monoplane, sport scale, like the Bristol, but can be detailed and made more scale. Another simple framework.
3-FunAero SE-5a. 1/6 scale, 60 inch wing. IMAA legal, if it matters; fairly simple structure. The Se-5 has a lot of dihedral and is one of the more inherently stable bipes to fly. This one is similar to the above mentioed Dynaflite, but I believe is a bit smaller. I have one started, and planning on a .91 Saito, but it will fly with a smaller engine.
1-Balsa USA Bristol M-1. It's a monoplane (60 inch wingspan), and I've seen them fly with a .46 two stroke, I have an .80 Saito on mine, more than it needs. The fuse is a box structure up front and a box truss in back, with formers and longerons to give it the proper shape. The most complex part of building it is laminating the outer half of the wing's curved leading edges. It is a blast to fly, and handles like a typical mid wing sport model.
2-BUSA Eindecker 40. Another monoplane, sport scale, like the Bristol, but can be detailed and made more scale. Another simple framework.
3-FunAero SE-5a. 1/6 scale, 60 inch wing. IMAA legal, if it matters; fairly simple structure. The Se-5 has a lot of dihedral and is one of the more inherently stable bipes to fly. This one is similar to the above mentioed Dynaflite, but I believe is a bit smaller. I have one started, and planning on a .91 Saito, but it will fly with a smaller engine.