Construction Techniques!?
#1
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From: Hobart, AUSTRALIA
i was wondering if using tissue paper for covering is any good? does anyone here use it?
and about glues, how do you guys make ur planes? all with CA? anyone else use alternatives? what about hot melt glue
haha?
and about glues, how do you guys make ur planes? all with CA? anyone else use alternatives? what about hot melt glue
haha?
#2
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From: Hamilton,
ON, CANADA
never tried tissues as covering, don't see why it wont work. Getting it to stick may be a problem. As for glue, 30min. epoxy for strong spots such as fire wall and landing gear blocks. and Ca for fibs and etc.
Dave trimmer
Dave trimmer
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From: va beach,
VA
i used tissue paper to cover rubber band models.you use dope the same as silkspan to get it to adhere to the wood.but unless you are making an ultralight type airplane there are much better coveing materials.the general glue i use is carpenters glue the brand i use is called tightbond.and like dave trimmer said for strength where needed 30 minute epoxie.
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From: Hamilton,
ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: horace315
and like dave trimmer said for strength where needed 30 minute epoxie.
and like dave trimmer said for strength where needed 30 minute epoxie.

#5

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when I was a kid tissue was a prefered covering material for smaller planes as well as 1/2A control line, and silk span was the heavy duty stuff.
then came the monocoat iron on stuff, not much use for tissue any more unless you are building ultra light.
then came the monocoat iron on stuff, not much use for tissue any more unless you are building ultra light.
#6
To do a tissue and dope job on a wing, lightly paint all the edges of the wing with a thin coat of butyrate dope and let it dry. Then spread the DRY tissue over the under-surface and lightly brush more dope along the leading edge to get the tissue to stick. Then pull the tissue flat and paint only the trailing edge and whatever portions you need to wet of the wing tip area. When the dope is dry, use some fine sandpaper and lightly sand the edges to remove the overhanging edges of tissue. This produces a "feathered" edge to the tissue that will disappear later. Tissue will shrink as it dries to a size smaller than the dry material originally was.
Now do the same thing on the upper surface of the wing, including gently sanding the edge to remove the excess tissue.
When you are ready to coat the wing, brush the dope on the under-surface of the wing, but be sure to keep that surface DOWN as much as possible. The dope will soak through the tissue and collect on the lowest surface, and you want that surface to be the outside to minimize the amount of dope needed. Apply just one coat.
Now coat the upper surface of the wing, but turn the wing upside-down so that surface is always facing earthward. One coat only.
After it dries, you may need to apply another coat to the wing, but again do the bottom surface first, then the top.
If you were covering the wing with Silkspan, you would do so with the material wetted with a mist sprayer, because Silkspan stretches when wet and re-shrinks as it dries to the original size.
And make sure you have good ventilation.
Now do the same thing on the upper surface of the wing, including gently sanding the edge to remove the excess tissue.
When you are ready to coat the wing, brush the dope on the under-surface of the wing, but be sure to keep that surface DOWN as much as possible. The dope will soak through the tissue and collect on the lowest surface, and you want that surface to be the outside to minimize the amount of dope needed. Apply just one coat.
Now coat the upper surface of the wing, but turn the wing upside-down so that surface is always facing earthward. One coat only.
After it dries, you may need to apply another coat to the wing, but again do the bottom surface first, then the top.
If you were covering the wing with Silkspan, you would do so with the material wetted with a mist sprayer, because Silkspan stretches when wet and re-shrinks as it dries to the original size.
And make sure you have good ventilation.
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From: Hobart, AUSTRALIA
Thanks guys for your help...
As for the tissue stuff i decided to use it just because i already had some and i glued it first to the leading edge, wrapped it around the wing back the the leading edge then glued it again with a 1" overlap and then after a mist of water i sat it under my lamp to dry - the result fom this somewhat home made attempt...PERFECT. It turned out really good!
As for the tissue stuff i decided to use it just because i already had some and i glued it first to the leading edge, wrapped it around the wing back the the leading edge then glued it again with a 1" overlap and then after a mist of water i sat it under my lamp to dry - the result fom this somewhat home made attempt...PERFECT. It turned out really good!
#8
I am in the middle of my first tissue covering job. I used a 3M glue stick to attach the tissue, and a light mist of 50/50 water and iso alcohol to shrink it. So far, so good. It's a Sterling 22" DR1 triplane, I am hoping to convert for indoor electric flight.
#10
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ORIGINAL: piper_chuck
Our 4 year old daughter has started fibbing a bit. Could you help me understand how I can use CA to fix this problem? 

ORIGINAL: Dave trimmer
...and Ca for fibs and etc.
...and Ca for fibs and etc.






Ken
#14
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If you are using dope to adhere your tissue, use Nitrate (NOT BUTYRATE) dope. Also use the nitrate for the first coats--all but the last coat--of dope to control shrinkage and get a good finish. The only reason for Butyrate is to fuelproof the paint job if you are using glow power. Otherwise, just stick with the nitrate dopes. If you are in a humid climate, you may also have to add some anti blush to the dope to prevent that milky look after it drys.



