ok im just about ready to start flying but what items should i have in my field box?

Glow stick and chicken stick.

Then whatever else you have in the box you will always need the thing you left at home.

Fuel pump, fuel line, fuel bottle cap kit, glow ignitor w/ charger, 4-way prop/glow wrench, chicken stick

Add fuel and go fly

a quick charger and leads ar fantastic, When you get to the field and your batts are dead, just pop it on the charger.

don't forget spare plugs and props and wing bands if applicable.

I always have one of these with me [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWW16&P=0]Load Voltmeter[/link] and use it between flights . After seeing 3 planes lost to battery issues so far this season , it has become part of my preflight routine.
Another item would be a restraint for starting your plane, most Clubs have it in their rules. I used a cargo strap and a long screwdriver or the hitch on my truck.
Special, lucky flying hat and pair of sunglasses and a iced down cooler of beer for your RCU flying buddies and your good to go.

it is always better to have an electric starter and a panel...but its not necessary. When i first started flying all i had was a glow igniter,fuel,pump,chicken stick and some screwdrivers.

Here is what I have and found it to have everything I need at a reasonable price. (my wife bought me this for Valentines day. What an awesome wife.) Only thing you you have to buy at this point is a glow plug. Everything else is here.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL419&P=ML

oh yeah. something else that is nice to have is a timer. just a small $5 - $7 cooking timer. You can get them in the cooking section of the grocery stores or stores like Walmart. I took the magnet off of it and glued a clothes pin on the back and then clip it on my antenna when I am flying. That way you aren't always looking at your watch and they have a nice loud beeper on them so you can hear it over all the other noise.

cool thanks all

For safety and convenience, pass on the electric starters that have cords. They are tied to your flight box by that cord. That cord is a hazard that winds up in spinning props every so often, with predictably bad results. The battery in the flight box makes that box a pain to handle. The "portable" starters are safer and can be carried anywhere. They're good for restarting models that shut off while taxiing etc.

Also for safety and convenience, same deal with the glow plug ingiter. Cordless.

Get rid of the cords to both tools. Flight boxes with two cords, one for glowplug one for starter, are accidents about to happen. You can't use both tools at once without one cord having to pass around the prop fan.

No cords: lots less risk, massively more convenience.

I use two cords, one for the starter and one for the glow driver, and have NEVER had either of them come anywhere close to the prop. I put my flight box to the left of the plane, when looking at it from the front. I always route the wire that goes from the power panel's glow driver to the plug under then over the wing. This keeps the glow wire away from the prop. The starter wire, on the occasions where I actually use one, is then easily routed away from the prop. Bottom line, it's not at all difficult to develop techniques that will keep both wires away from the prop. Eliminating wires is a preference.

i've been in the hobby since '62. done everything from competition Free Flight to Pylon racing...........i've always used corded accessories, and never had nor seen an accident involving cords.
are you saying that cords are the problem, or is it the newbie themselves?

I don't know about spark plugs unless you are going gas, but if you are going fuel, perhaps a few spare glow plugs would be in order?

I'm glad you've not had any problems and never seen any accidents. I haven't had any accidents either, and have used a corded plug battery since the 50s with no accidents. That was until I saw the first "remote" ones. And my first electric starter was a corded one. But now I use no cords and there is no possibility of hooking a cord at all. I've also never stuck my hand in a prop when adjusting a needle valve located at the carb, but see the value of the remote needle valve locations that some engines come with today. And buy that configuration when available.

I have seen cords in the prop a couple of times. One was done by a very experienced modeler on his last flight of the day. He was practicing and planned to pack up after two more flights. I guess he just got careless. And wound up putting in no more practice flights that evening. And wound up destroying a beautifully painted prop and cracking a Nats winning paint job it'd taken him weeks to apply. Which is why it's better to remove risks that can be removed. And in this case, removing the cords gives a couple of real advantages as well as completely removing the risks.

[color=#FF0099]Hdwideglide03,
I bought the deluxe kit as well, although after I built the field box, I think I painted it just a little differently than the other gentlemen at my field.

I would suggest a couple of spare wheel collars, zip ties, some clear tape, needlenose pliers, american/metric allen's and an adjustable wrench for starters. That and every servo screw and machine screw you find on the ground.....great trading items!
Oh, and don't forget the CA and kicker!

Also, Wallyworld has a nice Stanley rollling toolbox for about $24. Home Depot has the slightly upgraded verson for about $35. I love mine.

Bev

Bev. I bet no one mistakes your box for thiers. LOL

Bev... yes I really like mine and the braces so you can get your plane up a little higher and a lot less back strain.