Deans Micro End on Lipo Battery
#1
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From: Park HIlls, MO
I am picking up a used electric heli that I made a trade for.
Here's my question and problem. The lipo battery that is coming with this heli has had a lead pulled out from the dean's connector on the battery. Does anyone know how to properly repair this or have a link to a good site ?
Looks like you may have to have a special tool or something, I don't see a way to solder the wire back in like I would on a regular deans plug.
All Help apprciated,
Pete
Here's my question and problem. The lipo battery that is coming with this heli has had a lead pulled out from the dean's connector on the battery. Does anyone know how to properly repair this or have a link to a good site ?
Looks like you may have to have a special tool or something, I don't see a way to solder the wire back in like I would on a regular deans plug.
All Help apprciated,
Pete
#2
If the wire is disconnected from the Deans connector itself, then the repair is somewhat trivial.
Ideally you should use a 25 watt soldering iron with good low temp solder.
Place a new sleave of hit shrink onto the wire first. Make sure that the heat shrink tubing will cover the soldered wire and the connector stub.
Move the shrink tubing as far AWAY from the end of the wire as you can... e.g. all the way to the battery if possible.
Heat the end of the wire and "tin" it by applying a bit of solder until it flows onto the wire.
Do the same for the remaining connector stub.
Now heat the stub ( you need THREE hands for this, or a helper vise/clamp... ) and hold the iron against the stub to keep it hot.
Put the tinned wire on the stub and hold both the wire and stub together along with the iron until the solder from both "flows".
Remove the iron and with the wire immobilized temporarily, let the wire and connector cool.
After 20 seconds the wire will be firmly attached to the stub. Let things cool further.
Once the connector is cool to the touch, slide the heat shrink tubing over the area you just soldered.
Heat the heat shrink tubing with an air dryer until it grips the soldered area.
Let cool.
Done.
Ideally you should use a 25 watt soldering iron with good low temp solder.
Place a new sleave of hit shrink onto the wire first. Make sure that the heat shrink tubing will cover the soldered wire and the connector stub.
Move the shrink tubing as far AWAY from the end of the wire as you can... e.g. all the way to the battery if possible.
Heat the end of the wire and "tin" it by applying a bit of solder until it flows onto the wire.
Do the same for the remaining connector stub.
Now heat the stub ( you need THREE hands for this, or a helper vise/clamp... ) and hold the iron against the stub to keep it hot.
Put the tinned wire on the stub and hold both the wire and stub together along with the iron until the solder from both "flows".
Remove the iron and with the wire immobilized temporarily, let the wire and connector cool.
After 20 seconds the wire will be firmly attached to the stub. Let things cool further.
Once the connector is cool to the touch, slide the heat shrink tubing over the area you just soldered.
Heat the heat shrink tubing with an air dryer until it grips the soldered area.
Let cool.
Done.
#3
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From: Park HIlls, MO
Thanks for your reply, but maybe being new to this I mis named the plug. What you described to me is the way I would have added deans plugs for my electric cars and batteries.
I tried to paste a picture of the battery, but it would not allow me to do so. Anyway the exact battery is the one that comes on the Blade CX shown on this site. The picture the guy sent me of the pack shows the black lead pulled out of the plug on the battery.
Is this not a Deans Micro ? Perhaps I have called it by the wrong terminology.
Please look at that battery and tell me the type end it has on it and the correct way to repair. I can't see by looking how you could solder that plug. All help appriciated....
Pete
I tried to paste a picture of the battery, but it would not allow me to do so. Anyway the exact battery is the one that comes on the Blade CX shown on this site. The picture the guy sent me of the pack shows the black lead pulled out of the plug on the battery.
Is this not a Deans Micro ? Perhaps I have called it by the wrong terminology.
Please look at that battery and tell me the type end it has on it and the correct way to repair. I can't see by looking how you could solder that plug. All help appriciated....
Pete
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From: frimley,surrey., UNITED KINGDOM
that's a jst connector,i don't bother with them as you can't pull many amps through them,i would use regular deans.
#6
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From: Park HIlls, MO
Alright, now I am getting some where, they are JST connectors. I understand the Deans, preference, but for a quick fix, how would I go about making that repair ? I have no clue at all...any ideas..?
Thanks to all that have already helpped.
Pete
Thanks to all that have already helpped.
Pete
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From: frimley,surrey., UNITED KINGDOM
once the connector is in the block that's it,you're better off just getting a lead with a jst on it and cutting the old one off and soldering it on.
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From: Park HIlls, MO
Thanks Bigchap, I had no idea, but it did not look like the JST connector would lend it'self to soldering. I will change to deans plugs latter, I just wanted a quick repair for this weekend.
Thanks,
Pete
Thanks,
Pete
#9
To fix the JST.
Use a PIN to release the terminal connector which is in the plastic.
Normally this connector is crimped around the wire.
If the wire has pulled off, you may be able to open the crimped area with a sharp knife ( CAREFULLY! ) and then use pliers or a crimping tool to get the wire back into position.
I always give these a touch of solder as well to prevent re-occurance, but you have to be extremely careful not to change the basic shape of the terminal due to excess solder, etc.
Use a PIN to release the terminal connector which is in the plastic.
Normally this connector is crimped around the wire.
If the wire has pulled off, you may be able to open the crimped area with a sharp knife ( CAREFULLY! ) and then use pliers or a crimping tool to get the wire back into position.
I always give these a touch of solder as well to prevent re-occurance, but you have to be extremely careful not to change the basic shape of the terminal due to excess solder, etc.




