pinned hinges
#1
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From: Calimesa,
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I just got a VQ Warbirds P-51D. It came with what appears to be nylon/plasic? control hinges that have a metal hinge pin. The instructions say to install the hinges using epoxy. Can I use Pacer hinge glue (which seems like it would be less messy) or would epoxy hold better?
Thanks,
Peter
Thanks,
Peter
#2
I have be trying pacer hinge glue on some samples and it works great, even on the CA hinges. If the slot is really tight then I would dip the hinge in water to help it insert in the slot. Easy clean up on the pin area--just a little warm water. I know that others will also have opinions regarding what type of glue to use.
#3
I would use the Pacer hinge glue myself. A lot less hassles and it is much easier to use than expoxy. Epoxy doesn't hold that great because there is a slippery film left on nylon hinges that epoxy doesn't stick to that great. Cleaning the hinge isn't required with the Pacer glue, it works as is! It also won't seize up the hinges like expoxy if it gets into the hinge. The stuff is amazing and its all its the only stuff I will use on hinges myself after using it on my last plane. There is no mixing required and that little bottle goes a long way!!! the stuff starts to set faster than you would expect so don't be trying to reposition your hinges after 20 minutes or it might be too late. Found that out!![X(]
#4
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: mesaflyer
I just got a VQ Warbirds P-51D. It came with what appears to be nylon/plasic? control hinges that have a metal hinge pin. The instructions say to install the hinges using epoxy. Can I use Pacer hinge glue (which seems like it would be less messy) or would epoxy hold better?
Thanks,
Peter
I just got a VQ Warbirds P-51D. It came with what appears to be nylon/plasic? control hinges that have a metal hinge pin. The instructions say to install the hinges using epoxy. Can I use Pacer hinge glue (which seems like it would be less messy) or would epoxy hold better?
Thanks,
Peter
Absolutely use the Pacer.
Just make sure the hinge flats have some holes in them. Most already do. What they do is provide a way for the glue to form a kind of plug. The plug is firmly bonded to the wood on either side of the flat. And no matter if the glue ever releases from the nylon (even epoxy can lose it's grip on nylon over time) the glue plugs will hold the hinge in the slot.
When I use the Pacer, I have a wet paper towel and some Q-tips handy. I want the glue to squeeze out of the slots. It shows there was enough in the slot. It wipes away with no trouble, something that epoxy doesn't do. And it won't freeze the hinge, something that epoxy TRIES to do and does so bloody easily. It's magic stuff.
#5
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From: Calimesa,
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ORIGINAL: da Rock
Absolutely use the Pacer.
Just make sure the hinge flats have some holes in them. Most already do. What they do is provide a way for the glue to form a kind of plug. The plug is firmly bonded to the wood on either side of the flat. And no matter if the glue ever releases from the nylon (even epoxy can lose it's grip on nylon over time) the glue plugs will hold the hinge in the slot.
When I use the Pacer, I have a wet paper towel and some Q-tips handy. I want the glue to squeeze out of the slots. It shows there was enough in the slot. It wipes away with no trouble, something that epoxy doesn't do. And it won't freeze the hinge, something that epoxy TRIES to do and does so bloody easily. It's magic stuff.
ORIGINAL: mesaflyer
I just got a VQ Warbirds P-51D. It came with what appears to be nylon/plasic? control hinges that have a metal hinge pin. The instructions say to install the hinges using epoxy. Can I use Pacer hinge glue (which seems like it would be less messy) or would epoxy hold better?
Thanks,
Peter
I just got a VQ Warbirds P-51D. It came with what appears to be nylon/plasic? control hinges that have a metal hinge pin. The instructions say to install the hinges using epoxy. Can I use Pacer hinge glue (which seems like it would be less messy) or would epoxy hold better?
Thanks,
Peter
Absolutely use the Pacer.
Just make sure the hinge flats have some holes in them. Most already do. What they do is provide a way for the glue to form a kind of plug. The plug is firmly bonded to the wood on either side of the flat. And no matter if the glue ever releases from the nylon (even epoxy can lose it's grip on nylon over time) the glue plugs will hold the hinge in the slot.
When I use the Pacer, I have a wet paper towel and some Q-tips handy. I want the glue to squeeze out of the slots. It shows there was enough in the slot. It wipes away with no trouble, something that epoxy doesn't do. And it won't freeze the hinge, something that epoxy TRIES to do and does so bloody easily. It's magic stuff.
Thanks
#6
"Yes, do exactly what you just wrote and smear the glue on both sides of the hinge. I would also suggest to also use round tooth picks from top to bottom on both sides of the hinge 24 hours after the glue is dried as an additional safety to "pin" the hinge. You can use the Pacer for this and wood glue also works well. I dremel the tooth picks level after and seal with a drop of Ca glue to fuel proof. From what I have seen this may not really be required with the Pacers but it doesn't hurt and insures that there is no way that the hinge will pull out.
#7
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From: Calimesa,
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Thanks for all the tips. The plane is an AFR and already covered. Hate to put holes in the covering, so I am going to pass on the tooth picks, but will use them in the future, as that sounds like a great idea.
Thanks again,
Peter
Thanks again,
Peter
#8
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: mesaflyer
So, do you apply the glue to both sides of the hinge and then slide it in, wiping away the excess?
Thanks
So, do you apply the glue to both sides of the hinge and then slide it in, wiping away the excess?
Thanks
Then I use the bottle and wipe glue on both sides of the hinge, making sure the holes are filled.
Slide it in and feel good about there being excess. Remember when you're taking a second or two wiping that excess, what excess epoxy was like. It often meant you had a screwed hinge. Now, it means nothing, 'cause it wipes off so easily.
#9
Senior Member
I've done a couple of tests of those hinges and that glue, one just a couple of days ago.
The tests show that even a poorly glued hinge won't come out. It takes complete destruction of the wood around it before it's free. Same was true with epoxy when I made sure the holes in the flats were filled before inserting. So I haven't used backup pins or toothpicks or anything since tumbling to what those holes do for you. I've got a number of airplanes I built in the 70's. None have the backup pinning. I fly some of them every so often. I'd bet my car you couldn't get the hinges out. But it's up to you and your confidence in your building ability. And it helps your confidence to try a test installation in some scrap wood.
The tests show that even a poorly glued hinge won't come out. It takes complete destruction of the wood around it before it's free. Same was true with epoxy when I made sure the holes in the flats were filled before inserting. So I haven't used backup pins or toothpicks or anything since tumbling to what those holes do for you. I've got a number of airplanes I built in the 70's. None have the backup pinning. I fly some of them every so often. I'd bet my car you couldn't get the hinges out. But it's up to you and your confidence in your building ability. And it helps your confidence to try a test installation in some scrap wood.
#10
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From: Calimesa,
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"I'd bet my car you couldn't get the hinges out."
da Rock,
What kind of a car do you have?
Just kidding.
Thanks for the info. I have only installed CA hinges before. The hinge glue sounds like a good idea instead of epoxy.
Thanks again
da Rock,
What kind of a car do you have?
Just kidding.Thanks for the info. I have only installed CA hinges before. The hinge glue sounds like a good idea instead of epoxy.
Thanks again



