Glueing an ABS Cowl
#1
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From: Mississauga,
ON, CANADA
I have a 2 piece ABS cowl that I need to glue together, does any one know what type of glue would be best to use for this application? Is CA the choice or Epoxy?
Thanks!
manks
Thanks!
manks
#3
Got any pictures? I might be tempted to use fiber glass but that's the auto body guy in me. I have not had to deal with a "FACTORY" two peice cowl yet but have repaired some custom/aftercrash multi piece cowls and like the results I get with glass. Just remember the plastic is relitively smooth and for any adhesive to work effectively the surfaces will need to be roughed up at the contact points.
#4
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I usually tack the 2 pieces together with thin CA (go easy with the CA, all you need is a drop).
Then put a 1 - 1 1/2" strip of fiberglass cloth (I use what ever I have scraps of - usually anywhere between 2 oz - 6 oz cloth. Koverall will work in a pinch also ) over the seam on the inside of the cowl and using a scrap piece of music wire (typically 1/8" - 3/16" ) adjust the glass and wet the glass down with thin CA. Use the wire to push the cloth against the cowl as needed.
I then go over the seam on the outside with spot putty (comes in a tube in the auto section of Wal-Mart, etc ). let dry, sand, prime and paint.
Then put a 1 - 1 1/2" strip of fiberglass cloth (I use what ever I have scraps of - usually anywhere between 2 oz - 6 oz cloth. Koverall will work in a pinch also ) over the seam on the inside of the cowl and using a scrap piece of music wire (typically 1/8" - 3/16" ) adjust the glass and wet the glass down with thin CA. Use the wire to push the cloth against the cowl as needed.
I then go over the seam on the outside with spot putty (comes in a tube in the auto section of Wal-Mart, etc ). let dry, sand, prime and paint.
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From: va beach,
VA
i agree ca is the best way to glue the half's together for abs plastic, I use old dryer static cling pads after they are used, cut and saturate them with epoxy. then the plastic bondo to fill in wide gaps, and then like was said here spot putty called automotive body glaze to fill any imperfections.
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From: Houston, TX
I generally throw the plastic cowl away and buy an aftermarket fiberglass cowl. The AbS cowls tend to crack and break up after a couple of years. By then , any paint you might have had left over from the project is dried up or just got lost or thrown away. Its just easier to get a fiberglass cowl in the beginning. They don't fall apart like the plastic ones. There are several companies that make them. IF you call them up, you can find a cowl in one day and have it in a week. I've even found cowls for kits that were 40 years old and have been out of production for nearly as long. They are seamless and durable.
#7
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BTW, if you're going to use Bondo, mix some microballoons into it before you hit it with the catalyst. It's really heavy stuff and the microballoons lighten it some.
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From: toronto,
ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: PilotFighter
I generally throw the plastic cowl away and buy an aftermarket fiberglass cowl. The AbS cowls tend to crack and break up after a couple of years. By then , any paint you might have had left over from the project is dried up or just got lost or thrown away. Its just easier to get a fiberglass cowl in the beginning. They don't fall apart like the plastic ones. There are several companies that make them. IF you call them up, you can find a cowl in one day and have it in a week. I've even found cowls for kits that were 40 years old and have been out of production for nearly as long. They are seamless and durable.
I generally throw the plastic cowl away and buy an aftermarket fiberglass cowl. The AbS cowls tend to crack and break up after a couple of years. By then , any paint you might have had left over from the project is dried up or just got lost or thrown away. Its just easier to get a fiberglass cowl in the beginning. They don't fall apart like the plastic ones. There are several companies that make them. IF you call them up, you can find a cowl in one day and have it in a week. I've even found cowls for kits that were 40 years old and have been out of production for nearly as long. They are seamless and durable.
There are lots of pics in the kit building section if you can find it.



