The below thread is a discussion on injuries caused by props over in the Crash and Rebuild section. Gives you an idea of the injuries that these plane engines can cause(with some pics) when folks aren't paying attention or doing as their instructor taught them...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4762505/tm.htm

Good reminder of the need to be safe! Let that knowledge your instructor shares soak in. Practicing safe handling of your plane will help ensure you and those around you have a positive experience with this hobby.

Also not a bad reminder for experienced folks. Opened my knee up roughly a year back with an OS 46 AX. 12 stitches across the top of my kneecap and a month later I was able to start walking somewhat normally again. The recovery process sucked and was very frustrating. It's a lesson that'll be with me. If posting the above helps one single person remember to safely handle their plane, then I'm happy.

somegeek

Thanks for the link. I knew that electrics were dangerous but I didn't realize that an electric that small could hurt someone that badly. If a Park 480 brushless powered by a 3 cell lipo can do that, imagine what the E-flite Power 60 turning a 15x10 prop and using a 6 cell lipo in my plane can do. I think that from now on, my plane is going into one of the engine starting stands at our field before I plug in the battery.

OUCH! [:'(][&o]

Good plan. Even the 5x5s on the modded strykers have been known to bite requiring stitches when folks launch under power. Bottom line is to respect the prop and throttle control on your radio just as much. Practicing securing your plane while working on it is a good idea as well. When I am working on my planes at the field, they are tied off until I am ready to carry it to the taxiway.

The pics in that thread linked above are sobering for sure. One is of a hand that had five or six lacerations across the palm with each requiring ~10 stitches to repair. [:'(]

Practice safety first and the fun will follow.

somegeek

As far as I'm concerned, electrics can be more dangerous than fueled engines. Gas and glow tend to stall with a lot of prop strikes, they knock hell out of you and then quit, but an electric won't. Just like the Eveready Bunny, it keeps going.....and going.....

I agree, fuel burners also won't start up by themselves and go to full power because someone accidently bumped the transmitter. An armed electric plane should be treated like a loaded gun.

I use a safety shunt on my big EP planes, anything of 40 size or more. I always check everything is fine and I am clear of the prop before I plug in the shunt. After each flight the 1st thing I do is to remove the shunt. My first big EP is the 80" MidWest CAP, it felt really weird when I put in the batteries even when the shunt is disarmed. It felt very uncomfortable. The 20" prop can just come to live if we are not careful.

Even with the small ones its dodgy. Just last week I brought out my GWS Slow Stick, its got a nice 175W motor on her for unlimited verticals. I selected the correct model on the TX. I noted the throttle was on zero. I plugged in the battery and the prop went on full! Fortunately I was in a pair of Denims and the prop cleared my thighs (I cradled the plane when I plugged the battery in). What happened? I got no idea. Yeah ... 4.75 x 4.75 props on pusher planes can take some skin off your fingers. My UF Hawk clipped 3 of my fingers and it was bleeding bad enough.

In Malaysia about 3 weeks back one TRex pilot lost an eye. Flying by the seaside ... the heli went into his face. This is the reality of EP. Sometimes we let our guard down. Its a small thing, no noise ... should be ok. Its not ok and it should never be ok.

From the sounds of it, I would add to your description: Treat it like a loaded gun with a faulty trigger or a hang fire. You NEVER know if its going to go off or not!

I took a papper clip and used a screw on the back of my TX with a rubber band hooked to it, run it under the radio and up to the throtle to hold it in the idle pos..
When I'm ready to fly, I just unhook the rubber band and let it hang.

This is a simply solution to ensure that your transitter's throttle stick stays in the low (idle) position.

Ken

That's it Ken.

Sounds like a Deadman's Handle or Switch on the trains.