Can i use threaded rod for pushrod application without any issue? I was told the rods are weaker because they are threaded all the way up the length of the rod. What do you guys think? Here is a link as an example

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV06&P=0

Probabaly work just fine for a plane that does not have alot of force being applied such as 3D stuff for just flying and having fun they would work fine, I would think.

I don't have much experience with planes, but have been in the hardware/construction field for lots of years.

Aside from the lesser strength of a threaded rod vs. a solid rod, also consider the fact that a threaded rod sliding back and forth across balsa (or any other surface, for that matter) is going to chew through it like a saw blade.

why not just get something like this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD867&P=7

I don't think you will have any problem with these. As for rubbing against balsa, that would be a lousy installation in the first place.[sm=thumbs_down.gif] Pushrods of this type MUST not contact anything of course. DUH!!!

There isnt any contact on wood. However it would be for a Showtime which is a pattern/3D plane. I am trying to make a control linkage so that I can use a clevise on once side and ball link on the servo end. Any suggestions?

Use non-threaded rod. One end will be threaded and you can use a solder-on thread on the other for a special length.

Dr.1

Vibration may snap it. Not a good idea unless it's some POS of a plane that you don't really care about.

Is there a proper technique for soldering a threaded coupler to a smooth push rod? Id like to make sure its done right and it holds.

Use silver solder and a hot iron.
Sand the end of the rod to roughen up the surface.
Test fit.
Apply flux to the rod before soldering (use flux made for silver solder)
Method 1: Get the adaptor hot and fill the opening about half way with solder (IF the adaptor has a hole in the side follow method 2) keeping heat on the adaptor insert the rod into the adaptor (be very carefull to not allow solder to spill onto the threads)and keeping them together remove heat.
Method 2: same as 1 but instead of filling the adaptor you assemble the rod into the adaptor first then apply heat and allow the solder to wick in.
PS: IMO it would be easier to use a solder on clevis and if you insist on using a ball link put that on the threaded end.

You might be right about using the link on the threaded end. Thanks!

It is not difficult to solder to a threaded rod and, you do not have to use silver bearing solder, regular electrical solder works fine. The main thing is to have the threaded rod very clean. Use alcohol or even better, Acetone, to clean off any oil or grease on the rod and coupler first. Put a bit of paste flux if using electical solder (if using the silver solder use the flux supplied with the silver solder). Slip the coupler over the rod in the position to be soldered. It is best to make a jig to hold everything in position at this point. Wooden clamp type clothes pins work well here but it is quite easy to make your own jig with some scrap wood and clamps. Now, after all is in position, heat the rod and coupler where they connect until solder held on the junction melts and wicks into the joint. Remove heat and let cool a bit before removing from the jig. If you used the silver solder, wash the joint thouroughly to remove the acid else you will soon have a rusted rod. The flux from the electrical solder will not rust the rod but you may want to wash it away for appearances sake. Any connection made with electical solder will be adequately strong if done properly.

if you have never used solder before just remember to not get the rod red hot,apply just enough heat so the solder will start to flow into the clevis.solder will always follow heat.and like these guys said make sure the parts are clean of any oils and dirt,dont touch the ends with your fingers and sand the parts lightly to roughen up the surfaces.

Thanks for the tutorial guys. Much appreciated.