Well a little info on what im having trouble with here. I have a Alpha .60 BARF that im putting together and the rudder push rod was a little to long. I had the servo turned around so the "arm end" was pointing to the nose but it still wasn't close enough. I tried screwing on the little plastic clevis as far as it would go but it was still a little to long. I am trying to get the rod to go to the screw on the servo arm (for length) but its so long it completely over shot the servo. there is only one easy clevis in the kit, despite the manual showing three. So I measured, and tried to use some Z-bend Pliers on it and the dang thing snapped in two!!! [:@]
Now im in a pickle. I can buy a new push rod set but with out a way to secure them to the servo arm I will be in the same boat. [X(]

My question is, if it were YOU what connector would you buy? a easy clevis? or some thing else?[X(]



P.S. Several of the rods came with a 90 degree angle bent into it, and intended the snap on plastic links to be used there. How do they get the 90 degree bend in 4-40 wire??[&:]

that plastic link is called a fast link, not to sure on how the bend is made. some one else will jump in

You might try using a solder clevis on one end and the threaded clevis on the other, just cut the wire to the needed length.

oh- and it's best to use stay-brite or some other silver solder for critical joints like these for the added strength it brings.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK076&P=0

Maybe this will help, no bending necassary. Just cut the pushrod to the correct length, and solder the clevis to the pushrod. Make sure you get the correct size however, should be 2-56 or 4-40.

I don't have any thing to solder with and really don't have a clue how to do it. Id like to stick with some thing I know for now. I can bend wire and put on the clevis & fast link type stuff.

Just one question, Its a .60 sized trainer and the trouble is on the rudder. will 2-56 wire do the job? the kit came with 4-40 I think.

P.S. I have to order the replacements as I do not have stuff on hand.

dont be afraid of soldering, it's not hard at all & there is lots of info on how to do it on the web & on RCU. short of that, you can use some of [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD930&P=7]these[/link]

I use these, no problems with them...

what about the dubro Z-bender?? has any one used this? how did it work out??

It's definitely NOT 4-40 that came with the ARF. Nobody bends those. It may be 2-56 but more likely metric as are most current production ARFs since the majority are made in China or Viet Nam these days. The connectors recommended by alpiestar are fine for the rudder. Many will say to stay away from them on elev and ailerons though.

I use [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD930&P=7]those[/link] for throttle or nose gear steering but not on a control surface. At one club I belonged to it would not pass the safety inspection.

How about trying another "Z" bend and then snipping the wire and making an "L" bend and then splicing in a length of dowel to get it back to length? I've flown lots of models with 4" of wire on either end of a dowel for a control rod. Set the wire back 1" with the "L" end set in a small hole and heat-shring or wrap with string/thread and glue to anchor the wire in the dowel.

Your inspectors need to get a life. Nothing wrong with these. Been using these on ALL types of controls for decades and NEVER had a single problem or personally seen a plane that did. PROPERLY installed and maintained they are just fine. Naturally, everyone is entitled to their own opinions, even if THEY are wrong.

Maybe so. Sometimes "hits" are closer to home than folks think. I've seen those things fail three ways - bottom "snap" falls off (one petal breaks off on the metal or just re-use & wear on the Nylon), screws come loose (no Loc-Tite) and screws STRIP (see also screws come loose).

I'm not risking $500 (or more) on a 99ΒΆ lazy-man's solution when a "L" bend and Nylon clip or "Z" bend never fails. I don't even use them in my .40 size ARF's. They are the R/C equivalent of driving on a temporary spare tire.

Whatever. I've seen the plastic clips pop off on L-bends and Z-bends break before so I guess we're even.

Charlie,
I agree with you 100% I would'nt use EZ connectors on a $50 foamie. You might as well fly with micro servos.

In fact, I would'nt even use a L-bend, or a Z bend either. Metal clevis or a ball link is a must on a 60 size plane.

If you have to bend wire, just heat it up with a torch.

Bruce,
The law of averages is going to catch up with you.[X(] I've seen it happen dozen times.

EZ connectors are fine with non-critical surfaces like the throttle or the rudder/nose wheel (for those with nose wheels.. ie not tail draggers which I think the Alpha 60 arf is not). You can run the engine dry if they fail on the throttle, or you can fly without the rudder, but not without the ailerons or elevators in full operation. A small amount of lock-tite even works on plastic to hole the keepers in place on the bottom of the ez-connectors.

But, Charlie has a definite point. If you are insecure about the control surface, by all means, make it more secure. I have no problem with that at all. It all comes down to one's intepretation of the safety factor.

I inspect new aircraft all the time at our field and look at what is being used on links at both ends, and make sure there are such things as a small rubber tube on the clevis to keep it closed, (I've lost a plane because the elevator clevis came apart in flight because I forgot to slide that tube over where it belongs after making an adjustment).

But that takes away from the point at hand in this thread. I would recommend the solder method to put the two together. If you have a problem making that connection, perhaps your LHS may be able to help you make that adjustment and solder connection. Just make sure one end has a threaded connection so you can make adjustments.

CGr

Well, I've had EZ Connectors on 120 4-Stroke size planes that lasted over 14 years. So I certainly have no problem using them.

Sarge - Go to Walmart, Home Depot, etc and pick up a cheap soldering gun, a roll of solder and a can of flux. You might as well learn how to do it if you're going to stay in this hobby.

A few years ago I wrote a "How-To" on Soldering. It's a piece of cake.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=172]Beginner's Guide To Soldering[/link]

Your airplanes and it's a free country. Enjoy.

Note that E-Z Connectors for control surface connections are banned at the following R/C Flying events:

AMA Giant Scale Racing http://www.modelaircraft.org/PDF-files/515-A.pdf

SWRA Mini-Reno Racing http://swraracing.com/swra/Year2003/...cingRules.html (http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache...nk&cd=12&gl=us)

SAM Warbird Racing http://sacramento-rc-flyers.org/docu...rbirdrules.pdf

Wasn't going to any of those anyway.

I have used the EZ connectors with no problem at all and would not hesitate to use them again on any flight surface.
That said, I do prefer a solder on clevis.

I do to (prefer a solder connection) but I pursue this because I care.

We are talking about the little set-screw jobbies as in the first image? Not the "L" terminal clamps that you can install with the "L" end facing up through the servo arm and cut long so that even if the connector pops off you still have a chance of survival (especially as the end over the "L" leg is still a tight friction fit).

Well it is funny that you are talking about this, I learned a lesson the hard way today. I was using those ez connectors on most of my control surfaces, had my first flight of the day, tested all controls before take off, flight was going fine, then I lost elevator control, I was lucky I was flying into 10 mph wind and had enough altitude, but the plane went in fairly steep, I thought that it would be totaled. When I found the plane it lost its main landing gear, the tail dragger gear and the tail fin broke off, nothing real major. When I tested the remote i could tell that the elevator was not working. When I inspected it the ez conector had come off the servo arm, it could have happened during the crash but I know that I did not have full control.

In the future and on this plane i am going to either use solder connectors or z bend.

Lesson learned

Jon

All these, "ya but this one time I had this break on me" stories are a perfect example of why I checked every thing on my plane every day I would go up. Now I had worked in Army aviation as a mechanic and they tought a lot of concepts designed to improve safty, but the key thing is they showed me why we had to check every thing. And do it care fully so we don't miss any thing that could cause a crash. I know its nice to take that old nice plane out of your hanger fuel 'er up and go fly just like that. but if you don't do a check on all the (army & air force called the most important areas "flight critical") flight critical parts you are takeing a chance of seeing that model promptly come back down and end up in a garbage bag.
The entire aviation sector learned a long time ago that its impossible to create a machine w/ moving parts that will last for ever and a day. not only is it impossible but it would be impractical as well. the cost of the materials would put the parts far out of reach of even the most wealth private sector. In order to make an air worthy safe plane that was still affordable they opted for parts & materials that were less expencive, easier to work with (less expensive again) but carefully tested the parts to determine its TBO which is the "To BE Overhauled" time. you can not put more hours on that part once it has reached that time limit because thats as long as its suppose to go.

I never saw any thing in any of the manuals which indicated even in the slightest what the TBO was. not in the radio's, not in the engines, and not in the hinges. because of this we don't know how long it will last. That is the exact and only reason why I check every thing before even fueling the plane. before first flight (to insure its airworthiness and thus its safty) and after the final flight (for maintenance reasons).
As any experienced pilot is aware, if you have a problem up high you cannot pull off to the side to check it out or if necessary make a repair. What goes up must come down!

Hey, way back when you also asked how a bend is put in 4-40 wire. I can show you what I use.

Tower sells these Harry Higley benders

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL787&P=ML

Use a steady and firm pull and take it about 5ΒΊ past perpendicular, then flip it and open it back up. For a really tight turn clamp it in the vice jaws and rap it once to form it. You could get by with the vice and casing hammer alone, but the Higleys help me get it accurate and more consistant on larger angles. I don't use "Z" bend pliers or jigs, just the Benders and an assoetment of needle-nose pliers and a big hammer or two.

Use the 4-40 rod, make a 90 degree bend at the servo end, and use the nylon quick links. The 2-56 rods will flex too much for long runs. These are perfectly strong enough for use on a trainer. If you want additional security, put a piece of fuel tubing over the connector to keep it from coming unsnapped.

To bend the rod, just use a pair of vice grips. That will give you sufficient torque to bend the wire. Support the wire along its run to prevent flexing in the middle.

If you need more quick links, hit the local hobby shop. A pack of 4 or 12 shouldn't be to expensive.

Brad