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2/56 to 4/40 swap

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Old 11-14-2007 | 12:59 PM
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Default 2/56 to 4/40 swap

I had posted a while back asking about using 2-56 threaded rod so that I could use a clevice on one side and ball link on other side for pattern flying. Learned that threading entire rod weakens it. So would it be safe if i switched out all of my 2-56 push rods and used 4-40 threaded rod instead? Would the extra thickness make up for the difference in strength? Its for a patter plane that originally called for 2-56. Thanks!
Old 11-14-2007 | 01:05 PM
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Default RE: 2/56 to 4/40 swap

What size pattern plane?

I used 4-40 on both of mine, where it was called for. The Excelleron 90 uses pull-pull for both the rudder and elevator so the only place for the rods were on the ailerons, where I did use the larger size rods. They were threaded on one side and I soldered on the other side.

The Venus II also has 4-40 rods for the ailerons, but I used Sullivan Carbon Composite flex rods for the elevator, a pair of them side by side, and one of their large ones for the rudder. The tube has been secured in several locations along the inside formers. Very sucure and responsive.

CGr.
Old 11-14-2007 | 01:05 PM
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Default RE: 2/56 to 4/40 swap

If it called for 2-56, then 2-56 should be fine
Old 11-14-2007 | 01:54 PM
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Default RE: 2/56 to 4/40 swap

2-56 is fine IF you don't use full-thread rods. I'd use a threaded clevis on the control surface end and a "Z" bend at the servo. If you want to use ball links, get a solder-on threaded coupler for the unthreaded end.

Dr.1
Old 11-14-2007 | 02:36 PM
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Default RE: 2/56 to 4/40 swap

The threaded one rods from Dubro and others have rolled threads on one end. The main body is a smaller diameter than the nominal thread size. If you try to thread the body, a die will leave jsut a trace amount of threads. SO, the ideal solution is to sloder a clevis on the unthreaded end and use your ball joint on the other.

I recently replaced the elevator pushrods on a 3d plane. They were 2-56 and I found that handleling and my table tie down were bending the rods. I went to carbon fiber and use the brass solder on thread extentions and epoxied them into the carbon fiber rod. This gave me a very stout pushrod, but the brass threads are very weak I found. They are more prone to bending that the orginal rods. I suspect my solution is going to be to solder a steel 2-56 thread into a brass tube that I can in turn epoxy into the carbon fiber.

Don
Old 11-14-2007 | 10:04 PM
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Default RE: 2/56 to 4/40 swap

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV07&P=7

or

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...s494&search=Go

Would something like this help?
Old 11-14-2007 | 11:38 PM
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Default RE: 2/56 to 4/40 swap

HOME RUN BRUCE! THANKS!
Old 11-15-2007 | 06:10 AM
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Default RE: 2/56 to 4/40 swap

Yeah, that's a keeper, Bruce. Thanks.

CGr
Old 11-15-2007 | 09:20 AM
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Default RE: 2/56 to 4/40 swap

Glad to help.

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