Jester241

What do you guys do with your engine if you dont plan on running them for a few months? I've never used after run oil. Would it be better to just start them up for a few minutes every few weeks to keep them fresh? Or just use some after run oil,and if so would Marvel mistery oil work well....I heard some say its great? I probably wont run my engines till next spring.

And I know I could probably do searches and spend 5 hours reading through 500 old posts on this topic,but I dont feel like it.....plus this may be informative for other beginners that havent thought about it yet.

rwright142

Some will say they never use after run oil and have not had any problems. Others do use it.
I will probably not run mine for months too so I will put oil in mine. I feel it's better to lubricate the engine to prevent rust, just in case.
I have Marvel Mystery Oil too but I have learned that it is not good for after run oil. Red transmission fluid is what I have heard is the best to use.

flaminheli

I have always used Marvel Mystery Oil, I would never pay the money they are asking for after run oil, and I use it after every day at the field.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

If you know that the engine is going to sit idle for several months then a small shot of oil in it will keep the inner workings from rusting. After run oil, Marvels Mystery oil, or even automatic transmission fliud will do the trick. Remove the glow plug and put a small squirt in the cylinder and another small squirt in the carb, then turn the engine over by hand a few times to work the oil in. Replace the glow plug and you'll be good.

Ken

Jester241

Ok,let me ask you this....How do you use oil? Do you just squirt a few drops in the carb and stick my starter to it for a couple seconds? Should you remove the glow plug? And will it gum up the carb after sitting along time? And does it matter if you run the engine before oiling it or can you just put in the oil anytime? And is it good to re-oil every couple weeks or would that gum it up too much??

Thanks for taking the time on my dumb questions!

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

Wether you are in the "oil camp" or the "no oil camp", either way, I think its a good idea to flip the motor over a few times every week or two. The ball bearings are generally steel. And they are the achilles heel of the engine. IF the engine sits in one position the entire time, only a few ball bearings are protected from rusting.

Flylow

I like the Marvel Mystery Oil made for air tools. I think it is formulated to lube and deal with the water commonly found in compressed air lines. Had a Saito 56 sit over two years that was treated with this and put in a zip lock bag. Started right up and ran fine.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

I put several drops of 3-in-1 oil in my engines at the end of summer when my flying time winds down. I put it into the carb and then flip the prop several times while tipping the plane back so it runs down into the engine. Hope to get a chance to blow some of that outta there here in the coming months when we do get some nice days.

I run Cool Power 15% with 4oz of castor per gallon in my OS and GMS engines... though I will probably do away with the castor.

somegeek

Kow

The way I look at it, spending a few bucks on a year's supply of oil is cheaper than buying a new engine, whether it's necessary or not.

downunder

Here's a clue as to how to protect from rust. Control line fliers never have a problem with rust. Why? Because almost invariably they (we ) use a reasonable amount of castor in the fuel and at the end of every flight the engine runs dry of all fuel at full throttle (barring crashes ). To do something similar for RC, at the end of the last flight for the day keep the engine running, go to full throttle and either pinch or remove the fuel line and wait for the engine to stop. If you pinch the line then keep it pinched for a few seconds after the engine stops to let the residual tank pressure bleed back into the muffler then completely drain the tank.

If you use an all synthetic fuel then you must use an after run oil because synthetics don't stick to metal, they slowly slide off leaving bare metal exposed to air and moisture. Castor (like all good after run oils) is attracted to metal like a magnet to iron so can't run off. Technically it's known as being polarised.

Jester241

Thanks for the help guys! Sorry too Ken,must have been typing while you were posting and didnt see your response till after I typed mine.

DaveInLA

Is the Marvel Air Tool Oil good enough by itself? I've heard some people mix it with ATF.

Also, is this sort of "after run" protection only necessary if storing the engine for a few months, or even if you plan on running the engine again in a week or so?

Jim Thomerson

I use Rislone. It is green and thus goes along with the current go green ideas. Slosh some Rislone in your engine, throw it in a drawer, pull it out ten years later and go fly. Regular Marvel Mystery Oil is not good for long term storage. That good smell will evaportate and leave behind hard red crud. I understand the airtool oil is OK.