i got a new crock pot for 4.00 at wallmart. so i found that most people are just use green antifrezze. ok fist i know the carb must come off glow plug. what else do i need to pull off the bearing valves or springs ???. it's a saito 125

thanks

Take off the valve covers
carb/intake manifold
Back plate
Glow plug

Do not let it boil. Just hot

anything made of metal you can just leave on. All you really need to worry about is anything made of plastic, rubber, paper, etc.

The antifreeze is not very good if it eats up rubber radiator hoses?

Any rubber O-rings must come off as well. Fuel tubing too.

And NEVER prepare food in the crock pot again.

Ken

Dragnbye,

Would you mind taking some before and after pics? I'd like to see what a difference the crock pot makes!!

ya i will take some pic's it wont be for a few more weeks though

I also like to pull the piston sleeve, piston, and crank out and then put everything (all the metal parts that is) in the crockpot at once. This allows you to fully inspect bearings after the cleaning, as well as make sure you have ALL the antifreeze out of the motor before reassembly.

Brad

Bearing are not repairable. Due to the effort required to remove them, they are replaced with new ones upon disassembly

Y'all go to a lot more trouble than I do to clean an engine.
Removing the glow plug, the backplate, and the valve covers should be plenty of disassembly to get the job done.
Why remove the carb and o-ring?
Why completely disassemble the the engine ?
The gunk is only 'burned' oil, the anti-freeze will get into all the nooks and crannies without taking it all apart, you might turn the crank 1/2 a turn just to move things a little bit inside. The crock pot will be well below the operating temperature of the engine so you don't have to worry about melting anything, the reason not to boil the engine is that the anti-freeze will discolor the aluminum if you boil it.
Once it is clean, drain it good, then blow it out with compressed air, or WD40 if you don't have compressed air, then oil it up real good with something like air tool oil or gun oil and you should be good to go.

I completely disassemble because its easier. "Gunk" between the cylinder liner and the engine housing doesn't get removed unless you remove the sleeve. You don't get really good access to the bearings to remove any remaining anti-freeze without pulling the crankshaft, and you have to pull the sleeve to pull the crankshaft.

Complete disassembly (without removing the bearings) takes about 10-15 minutes. I'd probably spend at least that much time trying to make sure I had all the anti-freeze out of the engine.

And w8ye - I agree that if you remove the bearings, replace them. But for a quick teardown and cleaning, there's no reason to remove the bearings unless they are suspect.

But then again, I usually don't even bother with the cleaning unless I'm changing the beaings anyway.

Brad

The OS FS-40 is untouched.. (it didn't need cleaning)
The Saito has been through the crok pot... It was completely castor locked..
Now it's loose and runs great..

I find the low setting works fine and only takes about 4 hours.
After them come out I'll blow them dry with air, and squirt some ATF down the carb , on the crank, and in the plug hole
Then reassemble and turn it over a 9 or 10 times to get it all lubed up.

Don't do this in the house or the fumes and vapors could be hazardous to your health