Does anyone see a problem with this?
#26
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From: Las Vegas,
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OK. Thanks for all the ideas gang.
Few more questions. Can I bend these brass lines well enough with pliers? What is a fuel tubing bender, nailset and center punch? Where do you get those things?
If you think it's to much engine, it's not. I spent a good part of my training on this plane with this engine. It was so much fun, that's why I want it this way. The plane still flys slow and gracefully with it as well. I'd did see my instructor hover it and he used a three blade prop to allow for a little more clearance when landing. I've got the same prop and spinner.
Thanks again!
Few more questions. Can I bend these brass lines well enough with pliers? What is a fuel tubing bender, nailset and center punch? Where do you get those things?
If you think it's to much engine, it's not. I spent a good part of my training on this plane with this engine. It was so much fun, that's why I want it this way. The plane still flys slow and gracefully with it as well. I'd did see my instructor hover it and he used a three blade prop to allow for a little more clearance when landing. I've got the same prop and spinner.
Thanks again!
#27
It would be tough to bend that much of an angle with pliers without kinking it, but it can be done.
Here is a tubing bender, I have been told it works great.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRS90&P=7
Austin
Here is a tubing bender, I have been told it works great.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRS90&P=7
Austin
#28
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From: swedesboro,
NJ
I got one for all of you guys. Instead of buying a tube bender just get the right size weed wacker line and put it in the tube before bending. It stops the tubing from kinking. I usually do all my bends with my hands, its only light brass.
#29
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From: Las Vegas,
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Hmmm...weed wacker idea sounds interesting, I might have to go out to the garage and get some and see.
Does anyone know if those brass fuel tubes have to be bought at a hobby shop? Can you get those things at Lowes or Home Depot?
I'm tempted to try it as is, although better safe than sorry is probably the best policy here.
Thanks!
Does anyone know if those brass fuel tubes have to be bought at a hobby shop? Can you get those things at Lowes or Home Depot?
I'm tempted to try it as is, although better safe than sorry is probably the best policy here.

Thanks!
#32

My Feedback: (1)
Truth be known in a two stroke just about the perfect size engine for a Senior Kaydet (Any Version Senior) is a .61 when the airplane is to be used in the training environment. Yes it will handle more and I have one with four engines but for this gentlemans senario the 91 will work.
Some considerations will be neccessary such as prop diameter but the solution to this fuel tank fiasco you have going is really very simple. The problem arises from the fact that you are trying to hard mount the tank bung into the firewall with RTV. I don,t care what any instructions may tell you this old method is very problamatic and can cause much heartache.
Consider this while its commonly advised to wrap a tank or otherwise pack in foam to help prevent fuel foaming, this to preclude running problems. Now we go and stick the tank bung in a hole in firewall (The one spot on any airframe to experiance the most vibration) with a little RTV around it. Whats wrong with this picture?
As someone said a little earlier in this thread but was ignored "back the tank up a little". The Senior front end is hugh. There is plenty of room and an as long as you pay attention to the tank/spraybar relationship you will have not problems.
This tank would be ideal for your installation and 13 oz is plenty I would go no larger. Remember most of your flying time will be at just above idle. The hayes tank (genuine hayes not the cheap arf ripoffs) is about the best most trouble free tank you can use and requries no tube bending.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK832&P=ML
John
Some considerations will be neccessary such as prop diameter but the solution to this fuel tank fiasco you have going is really very simple. The problem arises from the fact that you are trying to hard mount the tank bung into the firewall with RTV. I don,t care what any instructions may tell you this old method is very problamatic and can cause much heartache.
Consider this while its commonly advised to wrap a tank or otherwise pack in foam to help prevent fuel foaming, this to preclude running problems. Now we go and stick the tank bung in a hole in firewall (The one spot on any airframe to experiance the most vibration) with a little RTV around it. Whats wrong with this picture?
As someone said a little earlier in this thread but was ignored "back the tank up a little". The Senior front end is hugh. There is plenty of room and an as long as you pay attention to the tank/spraybar relationship you will have not problems.
This tank would be ideal for your installation and 13 oz is plenty I would go no larger. Remember most of your flying time will be at just above idle. The hayes tank (genuine hayes not the cheap arf ripoffs) is about the best most trouble free tank you can use and requries no tube bending.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK832&P=ML
John
#33
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From: Las Vegas,
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John, I would like to do that, however the inside is made to fit the tank that comes with the plane. The only way I believe you could do this would be to remove the firewall and modify the inside.
It would be ideal to put a bigger tank in, I just don't know how to do it.
Thanks!
It would be ideal to put a bigger tank in, I just don't know how to do it.
Thanks!
#34
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From: FrederickMD
Another trick to bending tubing is to fill the tubing with sand, sugar, or other non-compressible powder. Then just let it run out after you bend the tubing.
Brad
Brad
#35

Hi!
What you do is this...you put a neopren rubber collar on the neck! That way the tubings will not touch the engine backplate.
...You must be joking! A .91 two stroke on a high winged trainer!!! And your a newbie! This plane is more suited for a .40 engine, at least at sea-level!!
Forget about throttle management when your a newbie! It doesn't work!
Choosing the correct size engine is what is important! People new to this hobby always think that putting in a too big engine can be compensated for by using throttling management...it isn't so (that easy). Been flying R/C and training newcomers for 32 years.
What you do is this...you put a neopren rubber collar on the neck! That way the tubings will not touch the engine backplate.
...You must be joking! A .91 two stroke on a high winged trainer!!! And your a newbie! This plane is more suited for a .40 engine, at least at sea-level!!
Forget about throttle management when your a newbie! It doesn't work!
Choosing the correct size engine is what is important! People new to this hobby always think that putting in a too big engine can be compensated for by using throttling management...it isn't so (that easy). Been flying R/C and training newcomers for 32 years.
#36
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From: Las Vegas,
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Jaka,
You would be surprised at how well this engine works in this plane. As a newbie I never had a problem training with this plane and this engine. No urge to "floor it". If anything my instructor had to tell me to give it more throttle so I could get over the landing area.
Has anyone put a bigger tank in this plane or know a past thread dealing with it?
Thanks!
EDIT: If I could figure out how to put some dvd video of me flying this plane online I'd post it. I did my solo flight on this plane with this engine and you'd be surprised how well this thing flys.
You would be surprised at how well this engine works in this plane. As a newbie I never had a problem training with this plane and this engine. No urge to "floor it". If anything my instructor had to tell me to give it more throttle so I could get over the landing area.
Has anyone put a bigger tank in this plane or know a past thread dealing with it?
Thanks!
EDIT: If I could figure out how to put some dvd video of me flying this plane online I'd post it. I did my solo flight on this plane with this engine and you'd be surprised how well this thing flys.
#37
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From: Lake View Terrace,
CA
If you have to keep it that short there are three clamping methods
1. cut a Short piece of hose, expand it with a set of forceps or small needle nose pliers and slide the fuel line in that piece then put it back on the tank.
2. use a small cable tie on them and pull them as tight as you can to clamp the tubing on the nipples.
3. wrap a piece of single strand wire around it and twist the wire tight but not tight enough to cut the hose (this take practice)
any of those work well, I have done a few planes where the plug and tank nipple have extended through the fire wall and not had a lot of room. Like putting a 120 in a 60 size war bird, 100 on a magic extra, etc.
Have fun flying your toy when you get it done.
1. cut a Short piece of hose, expand it with a set of forceps or small needle nose pliers and slide the fuel line in that piece then put it back on the tank.
2. use a small cable tie on them and pull them as tight as you can to clamp the tubing on the nipples.
3. wrap a piece of single strand wire around it and twist the wire tight but not tight enough to cut the hose (this take practice)
any of those work well, I have done a few planes where the plug and tank nipple have extended through the fire wall and not had a lot of room. Like putting a 120 in a 60 size war bird, 100 on a magic extra, etc.
Have fun flying your toy when you get it done.
#38
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From: el centro, CA
you can try hardware stores for the brass tubing.
but as it is i don't really that big of a problem with it.
Just make sure the tubing you have don't come off..use culking glue or what have ya.
you're not going the want the tank to be sitting up against the fire wall anyways
not sure if you're planing on wraping the tank with foam...I do. That pading
is going to move tank further back so the tubbing is not going to kink.
Leave it long and slice it back a little bit at a time.
plus I think you're going to want to move the tank back as far as you can
having a heavier engine on the nose. it's not as if you're going to move it back a foot.lol
you should have extra fuel tubbing laying around anyways
I don't know...a couple pair of needle nose pliers are nice to have. that's what
i use for tight spots. A .40 is going to give me what ?...a hair more worth of room.
you can always use a different size prop or pitch..if you think the engine has too much power.
it's just fuel comsumptions that's all.lol yeah wake up the left thumb.
but as it is i don't really that big of a problem with it.
Just make sure the tubing you have don't come off..use culking glue or what have ya.
you're not going the want the tank to be sitting up against the fire wall anyways
not sure if you're planing on wraping the tank with foam...I do. That pading
is going to move tank further back so the tubbing is not going to kink.
Leave it long and slice it back a little bit at a time.
plus I think you're going to want to move the tank back as far as you can
having a heavier engine on the nose. it's not as if you're going to move it back a foot.lol
you should have extra fuel tubbing laying around anyways
I don't know...a couple pair of needle nose pliers are nice to have. that's what
i use for tight spots. A .40 is going to give me what ?...a hair more worth of room.
you can always use a different size prop or pitch..if you think the engine has too much power.
it's just fuel comsumptions that's all.lol yeah wake up the left thumb.




