Glow plug batteries
#1
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From: South Africa
I have recently dug up a couple of 20year + old Baby Bee Cox engines from my childhood days. They require a battery to start and although I can remember what they looked like, I cannot remember the voltage or current rating. I have been unable to source a suitable batter in South Africa so am looking to build a voltage regulator which will be powered from a 12 7AH battery. What voltage is required and how much current does it need to deliver ?
#2
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From: West Jordan,
UT
Just like the removable glow-plugs, these operate around 1.2 - 2.0 Volt. Your 12V field battery will fry it (literaly) faster than you can say OOPS. I single sub-C sized NiCd will provide over a dozen starts between charges. These days, if you buy a model with these engines, it comes with a battery case which holds 2 D-size Alcalines (in parallel).
How much current? I don't know, but I would guess a regulator which can handle 2-5 Amps should do. The glow plug will only draw as much as it needs, but the regulator has to be able to handle it without burning up.
How much current? I don't know, but I would guess a regulator which can handle 2-5 Amps should do. The glow plug will only draw as much as it needs, but the regulator has to be able to handle it without burning up.
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From: Laurel, MD,
I'm not sure about the old glowheads. If they are, in fact, 1.5v, then you can use C or D cells. I seem to recall seeing old glowheads that were a higher voltage though. You can try hooking up a 1.5v battery and seeing if it works, or looking to see if you have a bright glow or not. (heck, if they are that old, you should check to make sure they still light anyway.)
I think (not totally sure though) that a 1.5v glow plus pulls about 2amps normally.
I think (not totally sure though) that a 1.5v glow plus pulls about 2amps normally.
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From: West Jordan,
UT
Originally posted by Montague
You can try hooking up a 1.5v battery and seeing if it works, or looking to see if you have a bright glow or not. (heck, if they are that old, you should check to make sure they still light anyway.)
You can try hooking up a 1.5v battery and seeing if it works, or looking to see if you have a bright glow or not. (heck, if they are that old, you should check to make sure they still light anyway.)
Since these small engines rarely have a muffler, you can look in the exhaust port(s) to see if it glows a bright red. A dull red may not be enough to ignite the fuel. Too bright, and it'll burn out quickly.
#5

My Feedback: (1)
Cox heads are 1.5 volt rated and the 1.2 works just fine. Many people do hook a couple of small cells in series in an attempt to acheve easier starting and this is a mistake beyond the already mentioned fact that your plugs will not last very long.
The most common control we have of our glow engines ignition timing is the glow heat. A hotter plug will advance the ignition timing and a cold one will retart the ignition. Since easier starting is by retarding the timing and an advanced timing will cause starting problems. When you up the voltage in a Cox head you increase starting difficulty.
The best ignitor if you don,t have the Cox or one of the aftermarket clips is just a couple of 'C' or 'D' cells Nicd or alkaline with a short wire of at least 22AWG soldered directly to the cells in parallel and a couple of aligator clips for hookup.
Works just fine, as a matter of fact controlline team racers use a hot glove for pitstops. The pitman has a couple of cells taped to his arm and a glove with contacts attached to the index finger and his thumb. He just wraps his finger under the crankcase and his thumb on top of the plug . A single squirt with a bottle and a quick flip results in refuel and relaunch in seconds.
John
The most common control we have of our glow engines ignition timing is the glow heat. A hotter plug will advance the ignition timing and a cold one will retart the ignition. Since easier starting is by retarding the timing and an advanced timing will cause starting problems. When you up the voltage in a Cox head you increase starting difficulty.
The best ignitor if you don,t have the Cox or one of the aftermarket clips is just a couple of 'C' or 'D' cells Nicd or alkaline with a short wire of at least 22AWG soldered directly to the cells in parallel and a couple of aligator clips for hookup.
Works just fine, as a matter of fact controlline team racers use a hot glove for pitstops. The pitman has a couple of cells taped to his arm and a glove with contacts attached to the index finger and his thumb. He just wraps his finger under the crankcase and his thumb on top of the plug . A single squirt with a bottle and a quick flip results in refuel and relaunch in seconds.
John




