The manual for the Magnum 46 ABC engine says to use a fuel with 20% castor oil during the break-in process. I've read elsewhere that you can use the same fuel for break-in on ABC engines that you would fly with.

Any thoughts?

Use the fuel you'll be flying with. ABC/N engines need a synthetic/castor mix like Morgan's Omega. Break in an ABC/N engine in only a SLIGHTLY rich two cycle. Due to the design of the piston/cylinder liner, ABC/N engines need to get up to operating temperature to properly break in.

Dr.1

One thing that DarZeelon and I agree on is that a lot of oil is best when running in an engine. Both of us use 25% oil, for myself I use all castor. Maybe it's peace of mind, maybe it extends the life of the engine. But the running in is the most crucial part in determining how good the engine ends up so I don't skimp on it. And SLIGHTLY rich to me is just into a clean 2 stroke, not the couple of hudred revs below peak some recommend. At that setting you might just as well take it out of the box and go fly.

Well "downunder", all I know is what's worked for me for over 15 years of flying ABC/N engines almost exclusively. It's also what a lot of recognized engine gurus say.

Dr.1

I plan on using Tower Power fuel, at least to start; unfortunately they don't say what the blend is, only that it meets O.S. max specs.

Nothin' like an oil debate to bring out opinions. Visit the gas engine some day and ask about amsoil vs generic 32:1. Heh.

Break in with what you'll fly. If you're really concerned, add an oz or 2 of castor oil to the engine's first gallon to add a measure of protection. I do this for my 1/2a engines, but don't bother with the 25 and ups. More critical is that you don't over-lean the engine, ever, but especially during that first gallon.

Run a tank or 2 or 3 on the ground, and once you get reasonably reliable running, finish the break in in the air, where it'll be done best, at varying RPM's and power settings. Just run a tad rich, and avoid prolonged nose-up situations (avoid hovering!)

Nothin' too it really, have fun! There's a dozen ways to do it, most work well, some are more trouble than their worth. That engine will be killed by the ground or a lean run eons before you wear it out in normal use anyway.

J

To me, that would be like purchasing food for your family with no idea of what the ingredients are - it's just labled as meeting FDA requirements.

If I spend $100 or more on a model engine I want it to give me the best performance and longest service life possible.

Would you get your car oil changed using a plain container of oil which simply says, "Oh, we're good enough?"

If a fuel manufacturer wants me to buy their product, they'll spell out exactly what the oil content and makeup is.

For break-in purposes, I wouldn't use anything under 18% total oil and it better be at least 80/20 synthetic/castor, preferably 50/50 synthetic/castor. The only major fuel manufacturer who produces a 50/50 blend with 20 or even 25% total oil is Sig.

Talk to the control line engine builders. They see LOTS of engines come in which have been run on RC fuel labled as using only "the finest ingredients". What they see is serious scoring of the crank pin, piston pin and other high load wear areas of the motor.

Key item for initial break-in (and modern engines don't require a lengthy break-in) is to keep the engine unloaded by running a prop one size smaller than recommended. Instead of a 10-6 flying prop, use a 9-6 and run the engine in short runs at a very fast 4 cycle setting. You NEVER want to fully lean a new motor out nor do you want to run an ABC or ABN engine in a blubbering slow 4 cycle.

I agree with PipeMajor on this one. Don't buy fuel that doesn't tell you what's in it.
I run 18% oil with castor blend. Same fuel for break in as for flying.
Oh and PS:
I think it was someone else that I warned about the price of Tower fuel so I will make my speach again.
Tower currently sells fuel by the quart @ $6.99 to avoid surcharge on shipping. at that price plus towers shipping cost you are pay well over $30 for a gallon of fuel. Double what you would expect to pay at most local hobby shops. You will burn through the fuel, a quart won't last long. Find a hobby shop within an hours drive and buy a couple of gallons and it will be worth the trip. I buy my fuel by the case, 4 gallons, and pay about $12 per gallon.

Where do you get Castor oil, and how much does it cost? I got 3 quarts of Tower fuel (needed to add an extra $5 to my 3 orders to get the $25 off) which are 18% synthetic (this is what O.S. max minimum requirements are), so maybe I can add some Castor to these then buy better fuel from now on.

Caster oil is cheap, you can get it at most pharmacy's.

Your hobby shop can order it too. I've not seen any problems with the drug store castor. Downunder's advice is good for your engine, imo.

I'll agree 100% with "PipeMajor" and "missleman". Know what you're running. Although I've never found a need to use it, I'll also agree with using medicinal castor if you use any. It's pure and clean.

Dr.1

Thanks. Just got a jug to mix my fuel in (along with a brand new OS .46AX engine ) and will throw a little castor in for break-in, and buy better fuel when I'm done with this Tower stuff.

You can get castor from Tower
Klotz BeNOL 2-Stroke Castor Oil Pint $7.39
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS627&P=0

Before doing that, I'd pick up the phone and ask Tower what the oil content is in the fuel you bought. Why buy something you may not need?

Tower doesn't know. They 'believe' it's a castor/synthetic blend, but have no idea what the percentages would be. Actually, a little research showed that Tower brand does not have ANY castor oil. To get a castor blend from Tower, you must buy a 'premium' fuel, such as Wildcat brand. And, it's important to note that only the Wildcat Extra Premium has 18% lubrication with castor; the regular Wildcat premium is 15% to 16% lubrication, which is lower than most engines seem to recommend.

The OS manual says anything goes, as long as it is 18% lubrication (5-15% nitro, and synthetic or blend is fine).

I'd definitely get some castor and add it for break-in. I run full synthetic (20% oil content) in my ASP 61 (ABC construction)[also manufactured by Sanye] now but used fuel with castor for break-in.

i have a fuji 43el2 ,what kind of 2 cycle should i use?ans how should i break it in

That is a whole different animal. The Fuji is a gasoline engine and this thread concerns breaking in a glow engine.
I recommend you start a new thread to avoid confusion.

are you saying that I could go to wal-mart and buy castor oil. Is there a special kind?

Castor oil is from the castor plant.
The most common is what you get from the drugstore and since it is meant for human consumption it is very clean and good to use in our engines.
Here is an example:
http://www.baar.com/Merchant2/mercha...roduct_Count=0

Actually what you want is de-gummed Castor oil, which means that the drug store variety is not the right stuff. The de-gummed castors have gone through extra processes so they don't gumm up or leave laquer deposits on the top of the piston, or head. You will notice the difference on the outside of the engine too.

I've got a bottle of castor from the pharmacy does this mean I should NOT use it? Was going to just use it for break in tanks.

Fatorangekat,
No, don't use that castor oil. There is no need to add oil to your fuel for break-in. Use a good quality fuel with 18% oil content, and follow the directions in the manual for break-in and you won't have any problems with it.

Ken

K.

ALL castor is de-gummed as part of the refining process but medicinal castor has some extra purifying to ensure there's absolutely no ricin poison left in it and there may be some sugar added as a sweetener too.