AccuThrow Deflection Meter
#26
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: summerwind
have to dissagree with you da Rock on 2 things here in regards to Chineese ARFs.
1 is CG, i have seen a few ARFs other than Horizon's or Great Planes where the reccomended CG was too far aft, and a couple that were grossly nose heavy.
2 is the throw thoery of "get it close".............if it's spelled out as "5/8", and with some CG's not being perfect as said above, the throw can have a major roll in getting the plane up and down from the first flight safely.
not saying that the throw meters will save the day here, but for a beginner who doesn't have the skills to use a ruler in the traditional sense would indeed benefit from have a meter as they do make setup a lot more accurate, not to mention they do save time by freeing ones hand for making the adjustment with the Tx during setup.
we are only talking about $10.00 here right?.....................
have to dissagree with you da Rock on 2 things here in regards to Chineese ARFs.
1 is CG, i have seen a few ARFs other than Horizon's or Great Planes where the reccomended CG was too far aft, and a couple that were grossly nose heavy.
2 is the throw thoery of "get it close".............if it's spelled out as "5/8", and with some CG's not being perfect as said above, the throw can have a major roll in getting the plane up and down from the first flight safely.
not saying that the throw meters will save the day here, but for a beginner who doesn't have the skills to use a ruler in the traditional sense would indeed benefit from have a meter as they do make setup a lot more accurate, not to mention they do save time by freeing ones hand for making the adjustment with the Tx during setup.
we are only talking about $10.00 here right?.....................
Actually, we agree on the CG. I tried to get across that the Chinese arf's recommended CGs are apt to be unreliable. And about as valuable info as their recommended throws.
And that CG's have a range within which any specific locations is as safe as any other, just as throws have a range.
And I agree with your second deal. For sure, if the CG is bad, then elevator throw can certainly be deadly.
But neither CG location nor throw amounts predict perfectly. Noone can predict ahead of time the location of the perfect CG, nor can they predict that actual effect of a 5/8" throw on a mass produced product. And neither CG nor throws usually have a deadly consequence when placed where a consientious designer places them, after perfecting the design through use.
But I don't see the danger of getting close with a ruler. Nor any compelling need for accuracy beyond tenths.
And agree wholeheartedly that $10 is no savings if you want the sucker and will use it. And you nailed it with the sentence I just highlighted. Spot on.
#27

My Feedback: (1)
You're right, Sumerwind. The key is not to have TO MUCH throw or to little throw.. to follow what the manufacturer states as a starting point, then adjust from there. To much throw can make it a tad bit difficult to handle, and to little makes it unflyable, or unable to do basic things, such as take off, land, or turn appropriately.
Good point.
CGr.
Good point.
CGr.
#28
well then again i have to look at it from another standpoint as in the ART of the trade...............most of us old timers (yeah i'm 52 now) were taught how to do things without fancy tools, and certainly didn't have radios with end point adjustments.............we did everything mechanically. doing things with a ruler is easy enough if you've done the setup this way over and over, but the meter does make things easier.............it just doesn't teach a newbie anything. with all the new ARF's and interest from new fliers has come the development of gadgets to get them in the air, but doesn't really convey any of the secrets.
i'm finding a lot of things have changed these days.........ask most newbie carpenters what 3-4-5 means.................they'll look at you with dazed and confused eyes.
gadgets are here to stay............may as well own em
i'm finding a lot of things have changed these days.........ask most newbie carpenters what 3-4-5 means.................they'll look at you with dazed and confused eyes.
gadgets are here to stay............may as well own em
#30

My Feedback: (8)
I have a related question:
The stabilizer on my Nexstar is a flat-bottom design, while the elevator is tapered on the bottom and on the top. Is the proper way to set up the neutral position of the elevator with the bottom edge on the same plane as the bottom of the stabilizer, or with the rear edge of the elevator centered between the top and bottom edges of the stabilizer?
Thanks.
The stabilizer on my Nexstar is a flat-bottom design, while the elevator is tapered on the bottom and on the top. Is the proper way to set up the neutral position of the elevator with the bottom edge on the same plane as the bottom of the stabilizer, or with the rear edge of the elevator centered between the top and bottom edges of the stabilizer?
Thanks.
#31
ORIGINAL: FatOrangeKat
I have a related question:
The stabilizer on my Nexstar is a flat-bottom design, while the elevator is tapered on the bottom and on the top. Is the proper way to set up the neutral position of the elevator with the bottom edge on the same plane as the bottom of the stabilizer, or with the rear edge of the elevator centered between the top and bottom edges of the stabilizer?
Thanks.
I have a related question:
The stabilizer on my Nexstar is a flat-bottom design, while the elevator is tapered on the bottom and on the top. Is the proper way to set up the neutral position of the elevator with the bottom edge on the same plane as the bottom of the stabilizer, or with the rear edge of the elevator centered between the top and bottom edges of the stabilizer?
Thanks.
#32

My Feedback: (8)
ORIGINAL: summerwind
yes if the stab is a symetrical airfoil, then the trailing edge of the elevator would be centered.
ORIGINAL: FatOrangeKat
I have a related question:
The stabilizer on my Nexstar is a flat-bottom design, while the elevator is tapered on the bottom and on the top. Is the proper way to set up the neutral position of the elevator with the bottom edge on the same plane as the bottom of the stabilizer, or with the rear edge of the elevator centered between the top and bottom edges of the stabilizer?
Thanks.
I have a related question:
The stabilizer on my Nexstar is a flat-bottom design, while the elevator is tapered on the bottom and on the top. Is the proper way to set up the neutral position of the elevator with the bottom edge on the same plane as the bottom of the stabilizer, or with the rear edge of the elevator centered between the top and bottom edges of the stabilizer?
Thanks.



] wish I started earlier.. 9 years later, I'm still learning. 
