AccuThrow Deflection Meter
#1
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From: San Antonio,
TX
I don't have one of these, but I think I need some way of measuring the throw on my control surfaces. Any ideas to alternatives? I'm supposed to maiden a plane this weekend, or trying to anyway. 
thanks,,
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK260&P=ML

thanks,,
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK260&P=ML
#2

Many planes give throws in inches. Got a ruler?
If the throw is in degrees, make a good guess. You'll be close enough for a starting point which is all the manual gives anyway.
Not rocket science. Don't make it harder than it really is.
If the throw is in degrees, make a good guess. You'll be close enough for a starting point which is all the manual gives anyway.
Not rocket science. Don't make it harder than it really is.
#4

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I make up my own degree meters and they are great, before that I used the AccuThrow and before that I used the good old steel rule. For setting up A pattern plane the degree meter was A must and I just got used to using them on everything now days.
Like Ken said, the good old ruler is just fine and as good as the AccuThrow.
Like Ken said, the good old ruler is just fine and as good as the AccuThrow.
#5

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A while ago, perhaps two or so years ago, someone on RCU sent me a pair of inexpensive lasers that are powered by a standard 4.8 volt receiver pack. These can be mounted on a control surface, let's say an elevator, and then a surface with a lined ruler is placed perpendicular to the movement of the elevator, directly in the rear of the elevator. The laser transmits a red beam to the ruler, then the elevator is "zero'ed" up with a line drawn on the ruler. Then as the TX sticks are moved up and down, the deflection is measured both up and down on the ruler.
This is a pretty accurate method, however, there are factors involved that make this a bit of a pain in the butt, the least of which is the proximity of the ruler to the surface being measured. The further away it is, the greater the perceived movement is, which gives inaccurate readings unless that distance is taken into account when making the measurements. This works, but it is way to complicated for the average RC'er, me included.
Ken's ruler method is what I use and seems to always win out as being the simplest and easiest method that gets the surfaces to the 'close enough' throw. I also have two different 'throw meters' and used them once. I always go back to the ruler method which works just fine.
CGr
This is a pretty accurate method, however, there are factors involved that make this a bit of a pain in the butt, the least of which is the proximity of the ruler to the surface being measured. The further away it is, the greater the perceived movement is, which gives inaccurate readings unless that distance is taken into account when making the measurements. This works, but it is way to complicated for the average RC'er, me included.
Ken's ruler method is what I use and seems to always win out as being the simplest and easiest method that gets the surfaces to the 'close enough' throw. I also have two different 'throw meters' and used them once. I always go back to the ruler method which works just fine.
CGr
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From: Philadelphia,
PA
A simple guage can be made by glueing two sticks together and marking a scale on one of them. I use this more often than the store-bought one.
#11

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ORIGINAL: Dsegal
A simple guage can be made by glueing two sticks together and marking a scale on one of them. I use this more often than the store-bought one.
A simple guage can be made by glueing two sticks together and marking a scale on one of them. I use this more often than the store-bought one.
ORIGINAL: cruzomatic
A ruler,,,,gezzzzz thanks guys, don't know what I was thinking.
CGr.
#12
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From: Philadelphia,
PA
> The ruler method is simple and works. <
The problem with the ruler alone is that it requires three hands! One hand to hold a straightedge against the surface, a second hand to hold the ruler and the third to work the TX sticks.
No one has mentioned using a servo driver which frees up one hand as it will hold the deflection as long as needed so that you can measure it. The driver will be useful for every plane you build and many inexpensive ones are available.
The problem with the ruler alone is that it requires three hands! One hand to hold a straightedge against the surface, a second hand to hold the ruler and the third to work the TX sticks.
No one has mentioned using a servo driver which frees up one hand as it will hold the deflection as long as needed so that you can measure it. The driver will be useful for every plane you build and many inexpensive ones are available.
#13
A servo driver may not give the same throws as your transmitter.
Not to mention getting down to end point adjustments, dual rates ect...
Not to mention getting down to end point adjustments, dual rates ect...
#14
cruz..................i've been playing with these toys for over 30 years...........i am a veteran of hardcore Free Flight gas competition where accuracy is second to none. of course throw meters are not used in setting up FF models, but for setting up and RC model, i find the Accu throw meters to be a great asset.............using a ruler works, but why not enjoy the easy to use meters?..........they make life easy, and assist you much better than using a ruler.................go for it
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From: East WitteringSussex, UNITED KINGDOM
The throw meter though most of them are in measurement / dsitance as opposed to degree's aren't they ??????
Any idea on how to accurately measure in degree's, I currently use a protractor but it takes so long especially as so many times you think you've got it just right and as you let the aileron or whatever surface it happens to be back to the starting point you realise the hand that's holding the protractor has moved by 10 degree's and it's way out !!!!!!!!!! Then you want dual rates as well !!!!!!
I'm just about to go to 2.4ghz so I'm going to have to measure all them on all my planes on both rates to know where they are at the moment as that's how I'm comfortable flying the planes and then I'm going to have to set them all up again afterwards - can't wait ????????? Maybe it's just me making a meal out of and 1/2 dozen bears before hand probably doesn't help but could do with something to simplify the process !!!!!!!!!
Any idea on how to accurately measure in degree's, I currently use a protractor but it takes so long especially as so many times you think you've got it just right and as you let the aileron or whatever surface it happens to be back to the starting point you realise the hand that's holding the protractor has moved by 10 degree's and it's way out !!!!!!!!!! Then you want dual rates as well !!!!!!
I'm just about to go to 2.4ghz so I'm going to have to measure all them on all my planes on both rates to know where they are at the moment as that's how I'm comfortable flying the planes and then I'm going to have to set them all up again afterwards - can't wait ????????? Maybe it's just me making a meal out of and 1/2 dozen bears before hand probably doesn't help but could do with something to simplify the process !!!!!!!!!
#16
ORIGINAL: Witterings
The throw meter though most of them are in measurement / dsitance as opposed to degree's aren't they ??????
Any idea on how to accurately measure in degree's?
The throw meter though most of them are in measurement / dsitance as opposed to degree's aren't they ??????
Any idea on how to accurately measure in degree's?
#17
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From: San Diego,
CA
One can be made out of a plastic protractor and pushrod lines...
Or what I was thinking of doing was sticking a small threading needle on the elevate flap (or whatever flap you wanna measure). and then just put a ruler behind the needle. This way, you will probably get a decent idea of how much throw is on each end.
Isn't the whole point to equalize the throws?
Or what I was thinking of doing was sticking a small threading needle on the elevate flap (or whatever flap you wanna measure). and then just put a ruler behind the needle. This way, you will probably get a decent idea of how much throw is on each end.
Isn't the whole point to equalize the throws?
#18

ORIGINAL: n19htmare
One can be made out of a plastic protractor and pushrod lines...
Or what I was thinking of doing was sticking a small threading needle on the elevate flap (or whatever flap you wanna measure). and then just put a ruler behind the needle. This way, you will probably get a decent idea of how much throw is on each end.
Isn't the whole point to equalize the throws?
One can be made out of a plastic protractor and pushrod lines...
Or what I was thinking of doing was sticking a small threading needle on the elevate flap (or whatever flap you wanna measure). and then just put a ruler behind the needle. This way, you will probably get a decent idea of how much throw is on each end.
Isn't the whole point to equalize the throws?
#19
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From: Quebec,
QC, CANADA
I have used the CRC throw meter. See http://crcproducts.ca/crc%20throw%20meters/.
It is expensive at $53 for two. I like it better than the Accuthrow.
It is expensive at $53 for two. I like it better than the Accuthrow.
#20
Senior Member
If you are a beginner, good advice would be to understand the importance or lack thereof of measuring throws.
It's really not important to set throws with anything more than "close". It is important to start with them near the mfg's recommended throws. But with Chinese ARFs being what they are nowadays, that's getting less and less important. Actually, it would be more correct to say their mfg info is not always accurate.
The point is that getting a throw perfectly set to 5/8" before you fly the maiden flight is really not important at all. Getting it near 5/8" is.
So if you're a beginner, and you're probably assembling an ARF, don't waste time or money on tools to measure throws. Also, if you are not a "detail" kind of guy who takes notes for later study, you're wasting your time messing around with accuracy that won't be used or developed.
It's really not important to set throws with anything more than "close". It is important to start with them near the mfg's recommended throws. But with Chinese ARFs being what they are nowadays, that's getting less and less important. Actually, it would be more correct to say their mfg info is not always accurate.
The point is that getting a throw perfectly set to 5/8" before you fly the maiden flight is really not important at all. Getting it near 5/8" is.
So if you're a beginner, and you're probably assembling an ARF, don't waste time or money on tools to measure throws. Also, if you are not a "detail" kind of guy who takes notes for later study, you're wasting your time messing around with accuracy that won't be used or developed.
#21
Senior Member
If you're a beginner, there is a major reason that more than rough accuracy isn't necessary for deflections.
Deflections are just like mfg's suggested CG locations. Both are just safe starting points for products that are manufactured in large numbers. Most beginners think that there is magic to "the correct CG" location of their trainer. There isn't. There isn't just one special place for airplanes that are built to be overly stable by design. And throws for basically stable designs won't work with anywhere close to the accuracy you can use setting those throws.
Deflection meters are excellent tools. The guys who fly precision aerobatics can make very rewarding use of them. Of course, lots of those guys keep up with exactly what the throws are and what results those gave. And they test and change and record.
You know, if you're not the type that measures, records, tests, records test results and uses the info later, there is a good reason for you to save your money.
Deflections are just like mfg's suggested CG locations. Both are just safe starting points for products that are manufactured in large numbers. Most beginners think that there is magic to "the correct CG" location of their trainer. There isn't. There isn't just one special place for airplanes that are built to be overly stable by design. And throws for basically stable designs won't work with anywhere close to the accuracy you can use setting those throws.
Deflection meters are excellent tools. The guys who fly precision aerobatics can make very rewarding use of them. Of course, lots of those guys keep up with exactly what the throws are and what results those gave. And they test and change and record.
You know, if you're not the type that measures, records, tests, records test results and uses the info later, there is a good reason for you to save your money.
#22
have to dissagree with you da Rock on 2 things here in regards to Chineese ARFs.
1 is CG, i have seen a few ARFs other than Horizon's or Great Planes where the reccomended CG was too far aft, and a couple that were grossly nose heavy.
2 is the throw thoery of "get it close".............if it's spelled out as "5/8", and with some CG's not being perfect as said above, the throw can have a major roll in getting the plane up and down from the first flight safely.
not saying that the throw meters will save the day here, but for a beginner who doesn't have the skills to use a ruler in the traditional sense would indeed benefit from have a meter as they do make setup a lot more accurate, not to mention they do save time by freeing ones hand for making the adjustment with the Tx during setup.
we are only talking about $10.00 here right?.....................
1 is CG, i have seen a few ARFs other than Horizon's or Great Planes where the reccomended CG was too far aft, and a couple that were grossly nose heavy.
2 is the throw thoery of "get it close".............if it's spelled out as "5/8", and with some CG's not being perfect as said above, the throw can have a major roll in getting the plane up and down from the first flight safely.
not saying that the throw meters will save the day here, but for a beginner who doesn't have the skills to use a ruler in the traditional sense would indeed benefit from have a meter as they do make setup a lot more accurate, not to mention they do save time by freeing ones hand for making the adjustment with the Tx during setup.
we are only talking about $10.00 here right?.....................
#23

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From: East WitteringSussex, UNITED KINGDOM
The 2 people that reommended the CRC meter, looks good to me !!!!!!!!!
Is teh ailerons etc aren't necassarily "horizontal" to start with I assume you can calibrate it ????????????
Also is the maximum on it 45% ?????????
Many thanks !!!!
N
Is teh ailerons etc aren't necassarily "horizontal" to start with I assume you can calibrate it ????????????
Also is the maximum on it 45% ?????????
Many thanks !!!!
N
#24

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I make a pair of thin ply plates, about 6 inches by two inches, then undo the servo linkages, then clamp the ply plates to the wing so that the aileron/elevator/rudder is centered between the two plates. Then I tighten the clamps a bit to hold it there, then I set the servo linkage so that it is attached without pulling or pushing on the surface.
This makes the aileron (elevator or rudder) on the same flat plane as a flat bottom wing (vert or hor stab), or centered on a semi or symmetrical wing form. At least close enough to make them centered so that both sides are the same, which I believe is what is desirable. If they deflect slightly down, well, that changes lift (as flaps) or up (as spoilers) but that too can be adjusted out. It at least makes them the same and flyable.
Some may disagree with this, but it has worked for me so far. Sharing any other ways of doing this would certainly be appreciated.
CGr.
This makes the aileron (elevator or rudder) on the same flat plane as a flat bottom wing (vert or hor stab), or centered on a semi or symmetrical wing form. At least close enough to make them centered so that both sides are the same, which I believe is what is desirable. If they deflect slightly down, well, that changes lift (as flaps) or up (as spoilers) but that too can be adjusted out. It at least makes them the same and flyable.
Some may disagree with this, but it has worked for me so far. Sharing any other ways of doing this would certainly be appreciated.
CGr.
#25
i think the bottom line here is whether or not a throw meter is necessary, and the answer here is NO, but the reality is that they make life easier by freeing up one hand when setting up a model..................they also are great for making further adjustments later on.
tools are for making the job easier, and this is a tool designed for just that.
tools are for making the job easier, and this is a tool designed for just that.



thanks guys, don't know what I was thinking.