I covered the bottom of my seamaster with liteweight fiberglass and put it on with polyurethane. Does anyone know do I have to do anything special when I put the covering on. Do I use hair-spray? I am going to cover it in coverite fabric. Thanks

G''Mornin, Irish.

I usually glass in the wing joints with about six inches of glass, three inches per side, of light glass, but use epoxy resin. We had a training session at one of our meetings, more of a show-and-tell, in which our club Pro (one of them, anyway) did a demonstration of glassing the wing joint. He said that once the resin soaks into the glass, to scrape it off with something..he used an ordinary playing card (since we live near the Casino''s of Atlantic City, we can get playing cards at a discount.. often for free.. discarded, once used packs of cards). One scrape, throw the card away.. next card and next scrape.

Well, he said to scrape it down until it looked like it was dry. Then let it set. After that, we sanded the joint down smooth to remove the remaining sharp edges, then just applied the covering right over it. And, it stuck. I don''t recall what we used, Ultracoat, Monocoat, not exactly sure, but it stuck just fine.

Hope that helps a bit.

Dick.

thank you sir: Good morning. I tried the polyurethane this time at the suggestion of someone in the forum. I did scrape it down after I put the poly on. It looks really good. I put two coats on before I laid the glass and sanded in-between coats. Getting ready to cover and wasn''t sure if I would treat it like I do the plywood with the hair spray.

I''ve never use polyrethane for glassing, but I''ll put this out for discussion. The stuff doesnt really dry hard for a few days or longer. Here in California, with all our clean air laws, it may take a few weeks for our mixtures to dry hard. To be safe, I would try a test piece and the see how it holds up to the heat gun or iron when putting the covering over it. I would think that trying to cover it to quickly would result in some of the solevents in the Polyurethane trying to steam out and cause bubling in the glass and covering.

Don

Geez, Don, you guys seem to be getting more and more regulated out of a hobby. I lived out there for 9 years, in Eureka, but don''t recall it being that stringent, but then again, I left in 1986 and things were just begining to boil out there.

CGr.

I just completely glassed an Extra 260 using the Poly U and followed the instructions from Completely Scale RC. There is no scraping at all doing it this way. The last two coats I mixed the poly about 50/50 with baby powder for A filler. I used 1/2 oz glass. Almost no extra weight added at all. After sanding it turned out to be A perfect finish and so smooth it is scarry. I''m ordering my paint today, Klass Kote.
I just went out and tried some covering on A test piece for you. All I use is Ultra Cote so I don''t know how Mono would work. The Ultra went down just fine but it was sort of like going over resin, if you kept the iron on one spot too long it felt sort of like it was melting or getting soft under the iron. It stuck like it was painted on after I let it cool for A while.
Camp, if you don''t use the water based Poly it flashes dry or cures so the set time is less then an hour between coats. I gave it three coats, let it cure over night then sanded. The two final coats with the filler I let set up over night between coats then sanded.
I would never go back to using resin or epoxy again. Other then the smell this is one great method of glassing.

I haven''t tried covering yet, but it should looks nice and smooth. If the covering sticks good I will continue to use this method.

I have done quite a bit of glassing with poly,if your using the oil based version just wait for it to cure for a couple of days, so when you sand it there is a powder,if it balls up then its not ready,and needs a little more time to fully dry.
then just cover it like you would any other surface.
if its water based poly then you will need even less time for it to dry to the touch in a couple of hours,over night to sand it.
word of caution when covering over any of the poly types go easy on the heat,it will soften the material and lift the glass if you get it too hot,just enough to apply the covering material,whatever you use.
most of the time I have painted directly over the glassed surface,I did cover the floats I built for my Nextar with iron on film they came out pretty good,alot stronger than if I hadn''t for sure, I am definatly a fan of using water based poly for glassing models for paint it provides a nice base surface and is alot easyer to use than any other products I have used for this purpose.
some examples of WB poly glassed surfaces,floats are covered in ultra-coat,the Spitfire,and P-47 are both painted,on the P-47 I used all water based products glass to finish.

Not just the hobby. When we first came out here in 85 from Michigan via N.Y., I decided to paint a bathroom. I wanted an oil based paint as that was what I use in both Mich and NY. Well I got a gallon and painted the bath. It was almost two weeks before we could touch any of the paint without leaving finger prints. I complained to the pain store and was told "welcome to CA, we can''t sell any of the ''good stuff'' you were used to back east".

The only way to get dope here is to go to an aircraft supply and buy it by the gallon. One of our guys is quite a scale builder and he was complaining about some of his plastic work coming unglued while in the hanger. His complaint was that you couldn''t get any plastic cement with MEK in it. You can go to the hardware store and buy it by the gallon though.

I''ve thought about a weekend in Reno to pick up paint, but the axulary cost are to high.[8D]

We were out here in 75 for a year tempory assignment. We were in San Jose and I remember one day seeing Mt Hamilton. That was the only day in almost a year that it was visible because of the smog. Today, there are maybe a dozen days a year that you can''t see it because of the smog. The air is cleaner. We are spoiled here on the central coast though as we almost always have an onshore wind of clean air. Brown skies are never seen here.

I guess waiting for a couple days for paint or varnish to dry is a small price to pay for year around flying.

Don

Yes thank you. I did in fact use the water based Poly. I am going to paint the bottom of my seamaster probably a black color.

nice models by the way.

The product I used was Deft Laquer based Brushing Laquer. Use in A well ventolated area because this stuff will knock your socks off, read burn the hair out of your nose, make you sick.
Thing is it was nothing compared to the Deft Sanding Sealer, that stuff is A killer. A garage with the door opened is the place to use this stuff.
The finished product was well worth the stink and time and A great learning process.
If you live!!!!!!!!!!![]

I also used the Deft brushing laquer as a sealer for the wood before glassing with water based poly,it is a real stinker, after that everything else was WB the finish is a product called warbirdcolors paints www.warbirdcolors.com its a catalized WB paint fuel proof to 15%nitro a few drops of the catalizing agent in each oz of paint and your good to go once it drys the stuff is really hard and virtually no odor,as well its water clean up no nasty thinners to work with,if it drys a little laquer thinner takes care of the dry stuff but most of the time hot water is enough to do the job.
the building is a real rewarding part of this hobby,on the bench is a Fock Wolf 190A8 I just started to work on.

I went and looked at the WB site. I like what I see. Clean up and mixing sounds good. Not sure how an Extra would look in flat though.
I just ordered the Klass Kote today. The prices are A touch higher then WB but KK is like the old K&B type of two part epoxy paints, beat it with A hammer and it doesn''t come off.
However, it cost me over 50 bucks with shipping for only two 1/2 pint cans of paint and A half pint of the part B. That really hurt and I would have liked to have used one more color.
The prices on some of this stuff is taking the fun out of building. More then that is shipping, $10.50 for three little cans of paint.

I really try to load up when I am ordering paints that need to be shipped it cost the same just about weather or not its a Pt. or a gallons worth.
WBC is surprisingly shiney I use there low sheen clear to dull it down,I would think he sells a gloss clear as well for the asking,the owner is a nice guy and is always willing to answer questions his focus is on scale airplanes but I would think any color combo is there for future projects.

Hey, I filled up my car two days ago and it cost me more than my first car did. It would have been more but the pump shut off at a dollar amount, not when the tank was full full. I don''t drive a SUV either.

I figure that today, tomorrow will be more, that it cost me $8.00 in gas every day I fly, or go to the field and can''t fly because of the wind.

If you compare this to my first radio system, a Royal Clasic, that I soldered every component, including the servos, it is a steal. That radio cost close to $400 in 1969 dollars. An equivelant radio set today would be around $250 in 2008 dollars or around $1200 in 1969 dollars. Even toilet paper has gone out of site. Compare our hobby with say Camping, $20K for a small camping trailer and then you need a truck, $40K more, to haul it. OR a boat for $18K and again the truck. I''d say we get off OK for the fun we have.

Don

And some people live on A very small fixed income.
So, back to the question: Yes!!

a really good tutorial on glassing with WB poly and doing scale details by a top quality modeler Tom Pierce http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/index.htm he goes through the glassing process materials and there weight comparisons for any beginner scale enthusiast,or expert as well as his FW190 thread http://www.tompierce.net/190/index.htm its really where I discovered using products that I was very comfortable with and have been using for many years for other applications.
I pinch every penny I can its the only way I can build the models I have,using materials that I can pick up from H-depot or my local hardware store always saves a few bucks here and there makes for a better model in the long run.