So I know that there are loads of upgrades for nitro engines on cars but what, if anything, can I get for my .46 evolution engine to mak it run better/better performence/ all that pizzaz.

(UPDATE)- Ok alot of people are saying switch to a 2 bladed prop, toss the fly wheel, and pull the limiters. All this change in the engine makes me a little nervous so I want some answers first guys. What exactly does the flywheel do? If I remove it will it off-balance anything? Also if I switch the prop what size should I get for my 40 size plane? Do I need a different spinner? (one with slots for just two blades or can I just use the one I have now that has 3 slots).

(UPDATED AGAIN)-thanks guys I really appreciat the awsome replys. I am now convinced that it is safe to do all this and im gonna buy a new prop/spinner on sunday. For my next plane I am planing on getting it in ARF version so I can have some freedom with my parts and such. I also plan on keeping my JR propo radio system since i know that radios do cost hundreds of dollars and I want to spend that much on a nicer 4 stroke engine. What would you recommend to put on a H9 corsair or a H9 p-51? (not the PTS version). Thanks again guys. Tyler

Yeah, I can recommend an upgrade. Get an OS AX engine. You will never regret changing over to OS. I've had three evolution engines. Hated them all. I could never get any of them to run well enough to use them. OS engines, especially the new AX series, will run right out of the box.

CGr

I know that car engines have "upgrades", but we really don't do that for planes that much. About the only things you would do to change the performance of the plane is change the muffler, change the fuel, and change the glow plug.

Ken

CGRetired:

Heh, but tell us how you REALLY feel!



Rockerdude22:

Short of putting a tuned pipe on it, there is not a lot to be done.

Most plane engines are already pushed quite a bit.

You could always play around with props to either get more airspeed, or more climb rate, pick one.

... or you can substitute in a larger engine and use your .46 on a smaller plane.

Yeah,I upgraded my .61 evolution real quick by and "as is" sale,lol. God that motor was a piece of junk. The ONLY thing it did well was start. The rest was a nightmare. Its a good thing the Evolution engine company people put tons of money into thier advertising campaign and making the coolest LOOKING engines,because if they had to depend on consistant quality engines........they wouldnt have jobs anymore. It just blows my mind evolution is moving onto gas engines and stuff when they cant even build a glow engine yet.

The thought of even messing with another evolution gives me the willies! [:'(]


....just my opinion(and many others),lol. t

I have two evo .46, one evo 1.00, and one evo .52 and I absolutely love them all. They have all ran great out of the box, and none of them have ever given me a lick of trouble. I also own a 46 AX, and it too has never given me any trouble. Overall the AX is much stronger than the evo, but for the money I find nothing wrong with evolution.
I will recommend this, though. If you have one of the trainer evo's, then take the flywheel off of it. That will get rid of some rotating mass, making transitions a little faster.

Is there any trick to taking off the flywheel?

2Slow brings up a good point: do you have the Evo set up with the 'trainer power system'(TPS)? And are you using the 3 bladed prop that comes with Evo trainers? The TPS uses that flywheel which you can take off for more performance, and the 3 bladed prop they use (not all 3 bladed props) is designed for training purposes and is not as sporty as most other props.

My 3 blade prop was complete CRAP. It was so out of balance the engine wouldn't even run right. My alpha 60 went from not having enough power at full throttle to having more then enough at half just by switching to a normal prop.

Except for the 1.00NX, all of my Evolution engines have run just great, once I've removed the $@$*% limiters!!!

The worst thing about these engines is the limiters. Remove them, and you end up with a reliable engine.

The worst thing about the 1.00NX, is that it's a 1.00NX.... pos...


The PTS prop is low pitched and "slow" for a reason.

Fly the Alpha as it was designed with the prop, and it's a great trainer with very docile characteristics.

Newbies are ill advised to swap the prop out right away.




To eliminate the flywheel, remove the prop hub, heat the flywheel a bit, and then lightly bang it out.

However you can also just buy a new hub, so you can switch back and forth as needed.

If you ever need weight in the nose, it's nice to have it on the flywheel so you get some additional benefit out of the weight.

I didn't even heat mine I just opened up a vise so that the flywheel would catch on it, but the inner hub wouldn't. Then I got a socket just smaller than the flywheel, and banged the hub out of the flywheel with a small ball ping hammer.
Voila, good as new.
It really increased the rate of transition and may have even increased the top end power just a bit as well.
You won't regret doing it.

weird.. My Evo .46 flywheel was loose, just like a backplate for a spinner. Came right off without any forcing..

Course I then upgraded to an OS .46FX and never looked back..

The flywheel adds inertia to the spinning prop what this means is that spikes/changes in RPM's will be dampened, and will let your engine speed spin up a little faster without the extra weight. I don't know how much the thing weighs, so if you take it off you want to re-check your CG.

You can try an 11x6 prop for a sporty trainer prop. You can experiment with different sizes too, but 11x6 is a safe place to start. You will need a new spinner because the 3 holes on your spinner are at 120 degrees apart, not 180 degrees. I just looked at your manual, it doesn't say anything about recommended prop range. Since people are saying that it's not the most powerful of engines, you probably don't want to go more than a 12x5 or 12x6. But play with the 11x6, 11x7, or even 11x5 first.

There are other 3 bladed props, too, but they're more expensive and there are less options.

The needle restrictors are there for someone who has no experience tuning an engine. If you let someone show you how to make adjustments and don't do anything drastic, there is no need for them. Apparently they often are not even set right for optimum performance.

If you make all these changes I think you will be surprised at the difference.

Yeah.. I've sold my 1.00 NX. I hated that engine. It gave me days of frustration trying to get it to run right through one tank of fuel. Never did, so I replaced it with an OS 1.20 AX.

CGr

1. Put a 2 blade prop on. To change from a 3 blade to a 2 blade EITHER increase the diameter by 1" OR the pitch by 1" For instance: To go from a 3 blade 10x6 you would use a 2 blade 11x6 OR a 2 blade 10x7. I suggest using an 11" diameter prop (or larger depending on how you plan to fly the plane) for a 46 to prevent over revving the engine. 3 blade/4 blade props are VERY inefficient and are primarily used for display purposes or if you need ground clearance.

2. Remove the flywheel. You will most likely need a gear puller to get the flywheel off. The flywheel minimizes any surges in engine rpm. With the flywheel removed the engine will respond faster to speeding up/slowing down. REMEMBER TO RECHECK YOUR CG AFTER PULLING THE FLYWHEEL.

3. Remove the limiters on BOTH the high speed and low speed needles. The limiters are fine for people who have little or no knowledge of how to tune/adjust an engine. Once your engine is PROPERLY tuned you should not need to change the low speed needle and, AT MOST, a 1/8 - 1/4 turn on the high speed needle to compensate for humidity/temperature changes.

4. You will need a new spinner for a 2 blade prop. I suggest getting an aluminum spinner. They cost more (about 2 - 3 times a plastic spinner), however they hold up to electric starters and "unscheduled landings" substantially better than the plastic ones. You will have to actively work at destroying an aluminum spinner.

Removing the flywheel is easy. Place it over some blocks or an open vise so that the opening will allow the thrust washer (The piece in the center) to fall through.

Find a socket (From a socket wrench set) the is slightly smaller in diameter than the thrust washer and place it on top - it's a good idea to pad it slightly with a small disc of cardboard, but it's not entirely necessary.

Tap the socket with a hammer and it will slowly work its way out.

The weighted flywheel is there to help in idle. Remember, this is supposed to be a "trainer" engine, meant to be on planes flown by beginners (i.e. alpha 40 and such). However, it is plenty capable of an engine if you want to put it on another plane.
With the added weight on the crankshaft, the theory is that the inertia will help the engine idle slightly lower, and slightly smoother. This goes along with the low pitch 3 bladed prop that comes with the PTS to help the plane slow down quickly and substantially for landings.

Take the flywheel off, as suggested above, with a socket and hammer. Put the drive hub back on, and you will NOT notice a difference in idle (eg the engine will idle just as dependably as it did before). However, you will notice a difference in spool up time.

Now, the prop. You will need a different spinnerone meant for two bladed props. They are fairly cheap, come in all sizes and colors (but you will need one in the 2.5 to 2.75 inch range), and easy to install. Put on a good 11X6 MAS or APC prop and go fly. You will think it's a new engine, I guaranty you.