Pushrod Glueing- Having a problem
#1
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From: Alexandria, VA
Near my servos on my Kadet Senior, I had to move one of the nylon or plastic tubes that the control rod rides in down in order for it to function without binding. I have tried CA, Epoxy, and Silicone, nothing will hold it permanently. Anyone know how or what to use to secure this? Nothing seems to stick to it at all.
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From: Beaumont,
TX
When I have too secure outer push rod tubes. I mix a lil epoxy and let it sit until its about to harden then i spread it onto the rod I am trying to secure. It usually works..
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From: Coral Springs, FL
You mak also attempt to place a small piece of balsa in there drill a hole for the rod to go through, or use it as a spacer to seperate the rods... I do this on almost every plane makes the controls nice and tight... epoxy is the way to go.
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From: Tularosa,
NM
Esanger,
The best method Ive found is to make stand off blocks by drilling a slightly snug hole in some 1/4 balsa scrap and running the outer tube thru it epoxy both sides , and epoxy the block to the fuse , sometimes it even helps to relieve binding on the control rod.
I put two of them on the throttle tube and two on the nose gear .
they worked great in my markII
Highlander
The best method Ive found is to make stand off blocks by drilling a slightly snug hole in some 1/4 balsa scrap and running the outer tube thru it epoxy both sides , and epoxy the block to the fuse , sometimes it even helps to relieve binding on the control rod.
I put two of them on the throttle tube and two on the nose gear .
they worked great in my markII
Highlander
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From: Alexandria, VA
One thing that is bothering me is that it seems that if the front tube (meaning the one near the nose wheel) is not able to move (if I were to glue it in place) I would get some major binding..
Any fixes?
Any fixes?
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From: Tularosa,
NM
the outer tube really needs to be solidly glued!!!
if the control rod binds then maybe a different type of material should be used ,
I use cable on the nose wheel , not only does it turn curves nicely , but should the nose wheel make hard contact with something , it flexs some , not so hard on the servo.
if the control rod binds then maybe a different type of material should be used ,
I use cable on the nose wheel , not only does it turn curves nicely , but should the nose wheel make hard contact with something , it flexs some , not so hard on the servo.
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From: Alexandria, VA
Well, it just so happens that yesterday in yet another trip to the LHS to buy things I probably don't need, I picked up a sullivan Flexible cable. Will this work? I bought it for another project, but only need like 8" of the 36" cable I bought..
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From: Tularosa,
NM
Esanger.
That is what I use, will the cable fit in the tube you have already installed ? if it does it will work just fine
if not , hate to see you go thru the trouble , but I would change it
Highlander
That is what I use, will the cable fit in the tube you have already installed ? if it does it will work just fine
if not , hate to see you go thru the trouble , but I would change it
Highlander
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From: Alexandria, VA
Actually, it is not much trouble at all! There is SO MUCH ROOM on the inside of the Kadet Senior, there is no problem doing things like this.
I bought the cable because I bought a .40 size pilot, and am going to hook him up on a shaft to actuate off of the rudder servo. So when the rudder turns, the pilot turns..
I have WAAAAYYYYY too much time on my hands..
I bought the cable because I bought a .40 size pilot, and am going to hook him up on a shaft to actuate off of the rudder servo. So when the rudder turns, the pilot turns..
I have WAAAAYYYYY too much time on my hands..
#11
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Ok, I think I see what's happening here.
The outter rod needs to be securely glued (BTW, scuff the surface with sandpaper and use CA. Epoxy doesn't stick to plastic [that's why plastic coffee can lids make good epoxy mixing trays]) If possible, surround the rod by either running it through a hole in a piece of scrap, or just attaching it to a former with a "V" shapped scrap.
BUT!!!!
Do NOT secure the outter rod too close to the servo! As you know, as the servo arm swings back and forth, it also swings somewhat side to side. The outter rod needs to swing with it. See pic.
The outter rod needs to be securely glued (BTW, scuff the surface with sandpaper and use CA. Epoxy doesn't stick to plastic [that's why plastic coffee can lids make good epoxy mixing trays]) If possible, surround the rod by either running it through a hole in a piece of scrap, or just attaching it to a former with a "V" shapped scrap.
BUT!!!!
Do NOT secure the outter rod too close to the servo! As you know, as the servo arm swings back and forth, it also swings somewhat side to side. The outter rod needs to swing with it. See pic.




