I am putting my Superstar together, and the wing roots do not quite align exactly(about 1/16" off).. I am wondering, which flight surface is more important for alignment, the upper or the lower? I seem to want to say upper myself....

Do you mean to say that one root is thicker than the other?

No, the roots are the same, there is just enough of a warp in one wing to make the trailing edge and leading edge not quite align the same between the two wing halves.. while it is a very small amount since this is my first plane it leaps out at me..

Wow is that covering light weight, put a dimple in the lower wing covering trying to get my fingernail under a piece of tape.. will heat take small dimples out?

slick,
Are you sure the dihedral brace isn't slightly mis-aligned? If the leading edges are lined up, is the trailing edge off? Or are both off?

With the leading edge lined up the trailing edge is off by about 1/16th of an inch...one side higher than the other

SlickCE,

I would split the difference of off-set between the leading and trailing edges and epoxy in place. You shouldn't notice the 1/16th inch difference when flying. If you do, look for another reason such as a warped wing or mis-aligned tail-feathers, etc...

My recommendation is to finish building and go enjoy flying.

Will do..

I must admit I am dissappointed by the instructions... or maybe I am too picky... It gives directions on how to cut out the wing for the servo & servo mount installation, then when you look at the wing it is already cut out...I will trial fit the servo body before I install the mount the way they say and make sure it will fit correctly...

This sort of thing isn't all that unusual. Just be gald it wasn't the other way around. (Directions say mount servo in precut hole, which doesn't exist. )
Dennis-

Don't have the Superstar done yet, but when I dropped by the field yesterday I saw another Newbie with the exact same Superstar 60.. unflown but ready..

I asked him about the wing root alignment on his and he had the same problem... What he did was use a dowel to keep the TE aligned and pressure to keep the LE aligned while the 30 minute epoxy set up.. wish I had thought of that.

Not sure that I would have gone that route. That's injecting stress that could come back to haunt during flight. The more pressure used, the more stress, the more likely a future failure.

You did the right thing! Put it behind ya a go fly.

WING Servo
I have assembled a Superstar 40 and assume the basic assembl isn't much different than the 60 size plane. The wing servo installation is confusing if you merely try to follow the written instructions. But a little common sense will make the instructions un needed. Also, my wing halves are permanently joined (not the metal rod/temporary arrangement).
Unless you have some precision wood working tools, preparing the correct angle of the the servo tray mounting blocks is tricky to do all by hand but possible. I got an extra piece of wood stock (not balsa but harder stuff) and shaped them a couple of times until I made 2 that had a decent fit. It's critical that the angles of those blocks matches the dihedral of the wing. Test fit them on the wing to make sure both lay flat with no gaps or rocking. This will make a strong bond when you glue it to the wing.
There is an opening precut in the wing halves but I had to enlarge it slightly to allow the body of my Futaba servo to fit down enough in the opening. If this is your case, carefully shave away more wood from the already notched wing ribs. Remove just enough until the servo will fit into the hole. Make sure there enough clearance for the servo to go in. The servo wire and connector plug has to be held back outside the hole.
Using slow cure epoxy for all of this, glue the flat side of those beveled mounting blocks to each end of the flat piece your servo will be mounted to. Test fit the servo into the opening of the flat piece to assure it is large enough. If not, shave away at the opening. Allow at least overnight cure.
Next put the servo on the mount and mark where the 4 mounting screws will be located. Predrill holes into the wood (holes smaller than the screws). The screws should also screw into the beveled mounting blocks. Mount the servo. Place the assembly into the cutout in the wing. If there is Monocote covering anywhere the mounting blocks contact the wing use a marker and trace around the whole assembly. With an exacto carefully cut and remove the Monocote being careful not to cut into the balsa sheeting on the wing so you have a wood-to-wood contact. NEVER GLUE WOOD TO MONOCOTE. The joint won't hold.
Test fit the assembly. The angled mounting blocks will create about a 3/16" standoff of the flat servo mounting piece allowing plenty of room on the sides for that servo wire. Apply epoxy to all wood-to wood surfaces. Clamp or tape down and allow to cure.
Good Luck...Jim

I mounted the servo almost exactly like you described Jim... but still when I went to connect the3 pushrods I found they would not line up straight to the servo arm.. sure I could connect them but there was a lot of pressure on the servo arm.. I had no adjustment left, so I took my handy dandy wire bending block and put an angle in both of them at the same exact spot to get them to align to the servo arm correctly.

Not sure why there are "3" push rods. Not sure what the 3rd. one does on that model. There should be 2..one each to actuate each of the ailerons. Anyway, this mechanism has to be almost flawless.
Anyway, I found that the purchase of a few really inexpensive parts at a hobby shop made my assembly better than the one included in the kit....
Buy some rods that are a bit longer than the ones that came with the kit (threaded on one end). Get some plastic (nylon) clevises for the size of the torque rods that come out of the plane's airlerons (may come in something called an airleron linkage hit). If the clevises are hinged or free to pivot..all the better. The clevises aren't threaded but once you start screwing them onto the torque rods they will self tap. May seem to be hard to thread on but take your time and slowly thread them on with a small pair of pliers being careful not to get too bullish and crack or break them. They will unscrew and go back on much easier after that if necessary. Align the clevises by rotating so they are in a straight line toward the servo control horn.
Thread the threaded end of the pushrod into the other part of the hinge-type clevis piece and run it onto the pushrod as much as possible without interference of the hinged joint motion. This will give you the most amount of adjustment afterward.
Move both airlerons to the neutral position (the wing bottom is flat so place a straight edge on the wing bottom and move the airlerons by hand so they're in line with the wing bottom.
). If the clevis is a snap together type (I don't prefer the solder on type) Cut a short 1/4" long piece of fuel line and slip it onto the rod. This can later be move up onto the clevis locking point to provide some safety preventing the clevis from popping apart.
With the airleron position neutralized as described, mark the pushrods about 1/4" past the holes in the servo horn you want to use. Remove the pushrod from the clevis and make a 90 degree bend at the marked spot. Some servo control horn holes have to be reamed out slightly with a drill to insert the pushrod.
Insert the pushrod ends into the control horn hole and secure. Those nylon snap-type that lock back onto the shaft of the rod work well to secure the rod to the servo. Eyeball both airlerons to see if they both are still in the neutral position. If 1 or both need adjustment remove each pushrod one at a time from the servo and shorten or lenghten by turning left or right at the threaded point of the clevis. Repeat until both airlerons are true. Don't forget that slip-on fuel line locking piece.

I hope I haven't been too long winded in describing stuff you may already know but a bit of extra effort in the beginning can save a lot of headache and money. It's always best to keep any pushrods as straight as possible. By bending any to compensate for alignment purposes builds a natural spring into them that can drastically affect performance. Good Luck,
Jim

OOPS.......
Mark the pushrods at the hole in the control horn (servo) and make the 90 degree bend. Then cut the pushrod 1/4" past the bend.

The 3 pushrods was a typographical error.. either that or my keyboard is pissed at me and mispelling everything again