Ok, I want some of these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD930&P=7

But the ones where the skinny bit that comes out of them is threaded and I can secure it with a little bolt, if that makes sense.

Does anyone know what they are called or can link me?

Thanks in advance

never seen one that was threaded...they're pretty reliable...but I wouldn't use one for a flight contol ...I saw one fail on a students throttle and had to fly his airplane around until it dead sticked...
they're called ez connectors

These are NOT good for control surfaces, especially Elevator and Aileron. They are ok for throttle, but I wouldn't even use them for the Rudder. The problem is that the little metal keeper that goes on the opposite side of the servo arm could fail or fall off. If that's the case, well, with the throttle, you can simply fly till you run out of fuel then dead-stick land.

If on a critical surface, (elevator or aileron), and it falls off, well, what are you going to do next?

Be very careful when using these things.

CGr.

I've never found any that are threaded but that's how they SHOULD be!
I purchased the type you have a link to but couldn't use them as the skinny bit you mentioned is fatter than the original ones that came from SIG and I didn't want to drill the holes larger.

It's not going to be used for a plane, it's just that the car guys said it's a plane part

I have a few which are threaded, both on a boat and a car
But I need more and the non threaded ones will not do

Morning CG.

No wind this morning, so I will (hopefully punch some holes in the sky). Getting My SeaMaster 120 ready to fly. It is taking a lot of weight to balance. I put two vertical stab on the tail and that added extra weight. Hope it won't be so heavy that it will just be a boat on the water with wings.

You could try these,

Forgot HC links don't work. Go to Hobby City and look at the horns and clevises section, on page 4 or 5. It's called a linkage stopper. It's a threaded EZ connector.

Central Hobbies has threaded ones also.

No they shouldn't be! That's what my World Models Skyraider came with, and the finger nut would fall off after a flight. It wouldn't stay tight because the back and forth movement of the servo arm always made it come loose. I got the dubro connectors and the problems went away.

Morning.. well, it's now afternoon... Irish.

No flying this weekend nor today. Weather.. wind, rain, thunder, lightning.. so lots of hanger time for me.

Dick.

I have some threaded ones but I do prefer to use the kind of those that are shown in the original post (I prefer Dubro Brand). Those threaded ones came on ARFs that I have (or had), you should secure the nut with lock tite. They are very helpful on the throttle rod because it easier to adjust the throttle barrel and radio from there. For other surfaces I just bend the wire and use a plastic connector, like this one:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAZC3&P=0

I would beg to differ.
to remove the metal keeper you need to use pliars and virtually destroy the retainer,and dammage the EZ connector.
to remove it,when installed properly there fine for any surface when using lock tite on the set screw and a small flat spot on the pushrod.
when I am fitting them I use the rubber retainer,suppplied with the connector also, so if I need to change the location I can with ease,when I am ready to permanently install the EZ connector I then use the metal clip.
the metal clips should be attached with the smooth side towards the servo horn,so the cup faces away from the EZ connector only once,its not for removal.
I use them on several planes with no problems at all.

There is no way that the metalic "star" keepers will fall off if the connector is even remotely installed properly on the type of connectors with the metal "ball" or bump on the very end of the pin... such as on one of these.

See: [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD925&P=7]Click me[/link]


You have to tear the thing apart to remove the connector from the arm.... as the ball/stop prevents the star keeper from coming off at all.

I fly all of my planes with them. The only added safety measure I use, is to loc-tight the cap screws to play it double safe.

I have NEVER had one of these things fail or come loose, even on my Giant Scale planes.


That said, the one pictured has a straight "pin" instead of the little "ball".

In this case the star tends to bite into the metal if it is pulled outward.... I do shy away from this type though.

Generally do not use on flight control surfaces. However, have found them to be very reliable if properly installed. Installation method: Place ez conn in item to be attached to. Place flex washer on pin. place on piece of wood, with washer and pin directly on wood. hit top end with hammer driveing pin into wood and through flex washer secureing onto pin. ALMOST impossible to remove even when trying to. If using threaded pin type, definitly use thin CA on nut.

This is basically the way I use them too with no difficulty on ALL controls. I have seen both Z-bends and L-bends break too so don't preach to me about reliability please. Soldered connections? Good, if done properly and you have room for them. I also like ball joints on the throttle arms of the carbs.

I'm glad someone mentioned these! I need a couple of these for some extra servos I have and I've been wondering what these were actually called. I'm also glad to find out which ones to stay away from because with my luck, I would have bought the EXACT wrong ones [:@]

my "Tower Wish List" is getting longer and longer!!! One day (hopefully soon after I land a new job!) I hope to be able to cobble together a DIY SPAD out of spare servos, engines, batteries, and a receiver. Last weekend I stumbled across some great documents on the web listing step-by-step instructions with pictures included on how to build a "Home Depot" SPAD plane (they're suprisingly detailed! there are 24 steps/pictures JUST detailing how to "properly" build a dihedral wing!) I took the time to cut/paste all of the steps and pictures into a single Word document so I could study them and make them a part of my "flight notebook". It looks like it would be a real blast to build and fly! The traditional SPAD 1960's design is super versatile in it's capabilities and how it can be built to fly like a "trainer" or changed around a little to turn it into an aerobatic "speed racer" plane. It's kind of a "McGuyver Plane" and, if (or when....) it gets crashed, you just visit the hardware store for new parts! That's pretty neat to me [8D]

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXE114&P=K This is the exact version I prefer. The socket head bolt allows for good tightening without a danger of slipping off and causing damage.

I like the Great Plane ones. They are square and it allows you to hold on to them while you tighten the allen bolt.