another beginner building question...
#1
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From: private, IL
I'm building a Sig Kadet 25, and I've already made a mistake early in the construction of the left wing panel. To me, it seems minor, but what do I know?? Anyhow, I don't know if this new forum has the capability for photo attachment, but I'll give it a try. Basically, I didn't look at the illustration in the manual close enough and I didn't cut a piece of balsa sheeting to the specified size. it's supposed to fit between the leading edge and the top main spar, and from the root rib to the 4th rib lenghwise. The actual piece fits between the leading edge and the main spar, but I cut it to match the width of the other sheeting, which only goes to the 3rd rib. (see photo). Since the forward spars are plenty long, I was going to glue them in as i've placed them in the photo. What do you guys think?? Also, If I vary from the plans in this way, should I do the same thing to the other panel in the interest of balancing everything out??
Thanks for any input.
Darren
Thanks for any input.
Darren
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You've not glued it on? No problem. Set the impropery cut piece aside, and cut the correct piece of sheeting, trim the turbulator spars ( the 2 smaller ones on top of the forward 1/3 of the wing) and don't forget ti inset them into the sheeting as illustrated (4 to 10 times the strength of a butt-joint)
The miscut piece will work as a piece of sheeting on the other wing... the portion behind the main spar uses narrower sheeting. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Don't short-change structure on the wing, especially near the center.
The miscut piece will work as a piece of sheeting on the other wing... the portion behind the main spar uses narrower sheeting. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Don't short-change structure on the wing, especially near the center.
#3

Hey FHH... that was a great analysis of the situation: didn't even waste any balsa. What a solution!
And that's a nice looking building job on your part, Snoopy -- I was trained by a master carpenter who told me that the real essence of creating a master work is NOT being able to do it without mistakes, it's being able to do it so that nobody knows you made a mistake. Coming out and asking for advice was a good move... you're on the right road and moving along just fine!
And that's a nice looking building job on your part, Snoopy -- I was trained by a master carpenter who told me that the real essence of creating a master work is NOT being able to do it without mistakes, it's being able to do it so that nobody knows you made a mistake. Coming out and asking for advice was a good move... you're on the right road and moving along just fine!
#4
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Actually, no, the balsa sheeting which was improperly cut IS glued in place. (if it wasn't, I wouldn't consider it a mistake) Do I need to remove this piece and start again (how do I do that?).
Thanks for your replies.
Darren
Thanks for your replies.
Darren
#5

Honestly, I would, but I'm also known to be a terrible fuss-budget.
I would write off that bit of balsa -- not trying to save it will make it not too hard to remove it in pieces without hurting the turbulators and such. I'd slit along the main spar and the leading edge stock with a single edge razor blade (I'd use that because it's a fair balance of stiffness vs.thinness -- you could use an x-acto or such if you prefer). I'd then slit parallel to each side of each turbulator, but a little way away from them... that should liberate most of the wood and make it so you can see exactly where the turbulators are. From there, it'll be easy to trm close to the turbulators, then carefully shave off the part that's glued to the tops of the turbulators...
That's it, from there you're ready to shift back into drive and press forward again.
I would write off that bit of balsa -- not trying to save it will make it not too hard to remove it in pieces without hurting the turbulators and such. I'd slit along the main spar and the leading edge stock with a single edge razor blade (I'd use that because it's a fair balance of stiffness vs.thinness -- you could use an x-acto or such if you prefer). I'd then slit parallel to each side of each turbulator, but a little way away from them... that should liberate most of the wood and make it so you can see exactly where the turbulators are. From there, it'll be easy to trm close to the turbulators, then carefully shave off the part that's glued to the tops of the turbulators...
That's it, from there you're ready to shift back into drive and press forward again.



