I just purchased for my Kadet LT-40 Goldberg fiberglass [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001615334&I=LXHBP8&P=K]landing gear[/link] and I'm not sure how I should install it.

I purchase from the LHS four bolts, washers and nuts and some plywood to reinforce the area I want to install it.

I plan on removing the stock wire landing gear, removing all the servos and the tray to get at the area inside the fuselage, and 30 minute epoxying in a piece of plywood about 4 inches wide by the width of the fuselage and after drying, drilling the four holes and bolting on the new gear.

I figure by putting the plywood on the inside of the fuselage instead of on the outside would look cleaner but also allow me to reinstall my wire landing gear if for some reason I don't like the fiberglass gear.

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.

Epoxy two pieces of playwood of 1 1/2" by the wide of the fuse just ahead and back of the block that holds the wire landing gear (inside the fuse).

I don't know how the LT-40 is setup but maybe you can use the landing gear block that is already there.

I have used that same Goldberg landing gear in a trainer and I just used the existing block and installed some blind nuts to secure the gear. It worked out just fine.

Are you making it a tail dragger??

What ever method you use make sure that the wheel base is not changed and axles are in the same fore and aft position or this can cause various problems.

makesure you mount the gear to have proper toe in, before you drill.
Your idea is okay. You can use bind nuts and trim the nuts if you have a drimel .
So it'll clear the servo

I usually just add tri stock to the side of the fuse also

Nope.

How the heck do you get toe from drilling locations of the gear? Any toe in would have to come from the axle direction, wouldn't it? Otherwise, if you use the mounting location to get toe in on one side, it'd be toe out on the other, correct?

make some lite ply bearing blocks for each side of your plywood doubler,epoxy them in place.

Jim, you might be able to use a two bolt mounting system without adding any wood to the plane. There is already a hardwood rail running across the fuselage and it's braced pretty well.

Drill two holes in the gear, aligned with the axle centerline. Fit the gear under the plane and get it as square as possible. You can either drill clearance holes and use bolts with nuts; or you can drill for a tap size and thread the hardwood block. Use a tiny bit of thin CA to harden the threads after they are cut. If you thread the hardwood block you might be able to do everything you need to do without removing the servo tray.

Yes Cappa you are correct about the toe. Just make sure you have the gear parallel with the plane or it will run side ways down the runway during takeoff.

skeeter

Thanks, I'm thinking of doing this today. What do you mean by drilling for a tap size and threading the hardwood block? Using self tapping screws and drilling smaller holes so they tap themselves in? If so, what size and material would the self tapping screws be if I only use two? They'd have to be pretty large I would think but short so as to not hit the servos in the fuselage.

Also, someone mentioned getting the right toe in. There is no such thing, is there? I can't think of anything that would provide toe in except making sure the gear is perfectly square and toe in would have to come from the gear itself, correct?

I think he used "toe in" inapropriately. All you need is to make the gear as straight and parallel with the fuselage as possible. You can use measurements just like you did to insure that the elevator and rudder were installed correctly.

I used this same LG and I put a piece a ply in the fuse floor and a piece up each side wall then used blind nuts to screw the gear to.

I meant using something like this: http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/w...I=GPMR8108&P=0
The drill is the right size to allow the tap to cut a good set of threads in the hardwood block.
Then you use a regular bolt screwed into the threads. I used 1/4-20 nylon wing bolts (cut to a shorter length) to attach the gear to some of my planes. One has 10-32 nylon bolts, and one has two 8-32 steel bolts.

The plane with 8-32 steel bolts is a Tower Hobbies Uproar 60. It weighs about 7.5 pounds and the two screws hold the gear just fine.

All of my stuff that has nylon bolts uses three or four of them. My planes are all 60 size and weigh from 7.5 to over 9 pounds.

The gear you have will set the wheels with zero toe which should be fine. Some people will bend wire or aluminum gear to create a few degrees of toe in. I've heard that it can improve ground handling for certain taildraggers. I can't see any reason to do it for a tricycle gear model.

Well, I just removed the old gear and put in the Goldberg in place without drilling anything yet just to see how it lines up. Good thing I did.

There is a problem. The gear makes the rear of the plane under the new rear landing gear set about an inch higher, so the nose of the plane has a downward attitude.

In order to adjust for this, I tried lengthening the Fults nose gear by extending it out as far as it would go and it still has a slight downward attitude.

Not only that, but the plane sits alot higher.

Plus, the existing blocks inside the fuse are small 1/2" x 1/2" blocks just on the corners of the fuse.

So, I didn't go any further until I make sure the higher attitude of the plane won't make it less stable, ie. more wobble, on take-offs.
Plus I'm thinking there is no way I can get two bolts or screws on either side of the mount into this small 1/2x1/2 block of wood Sig provides in the ARF.

Any suggestions? Should I just use the existing gear? Thanks.

put a bigger wheel on the nose gear, for but some smaller ones on the main gear

Great idea! Thanks! I think I'll end up making this mod during the off months coming up. Or maybe not.

if you mount the gear backwards you'll have toe out...never mind. Just drill new holes in the wood.

Since you have already gotten many replies on doing what you wish I shall only add one thing for your.consideration. You mentioned that the new gear will cause you to have a very nose down attitude and where advised to just change the wheel sizes. Good idea, one thing that's good about a nose down attitude, but only a slight amount, is it will tend to prevent bouncing on landings to a large degree. We used to do this deliberatly in the old days of AMA pattern. It will require a bit more up elevator on take off but no problem.