chrisp32

so i got a model that is pretty cool and i have to build my own servoe mouts in the wings, for some reason they are not built in from the manufacturer and i am wondering if it is correct to make the servos square to the wing cord or to the aileron hinge line? or does it matter? thanks for the advise in advance.

Chris

blvdbuzzard

Left Right on their sides. What ever makes it easy for you. For the most part, the long side is front to back. You could make a cover that holds the servo, then you screw the cover to the wing and your servo is hidden and attached.


Dru.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

What do the instructions say to do???

Ken

Spacemonkey71

This is how I have mine mounted on my Senior Falcon (which is supposed to use a center "bellcrank" servo, but the bellcrank system just doesn't work right in this plane). I outlined and cut 2 "slots" out of the wings in line with the control horns (and used the existing control rod exit point as a reference). Then I chopped out the internal foam core and stuck the servos in. I later added 2 small peices of wood glued to the wing to screw the servos into for extra support.

I don't know how well it's going to do as I haven't gotten it airborne yet.... my new tank should be here this week and ALL the peices will be in place

..... but Mac's right, what do the instructions say? I've seen wing servos that were mounted sideways inside the wing and the wing panel was bolted on top of it with JUST the servo horn sticking through and I've also seen them bolted on sideways. Which way is the "right" way is probably dependant on what kind of plane you're flying. Mine is a 70" wingspan "trainer" style, so a little extra near the fuselage on each side isn't going to matter much. On the other hand, if this was a sport or aerobatic plane, it might make a HUGE difference in handling....

I'd follow the instructions. If you can't find anything in the instructions, contact the manufacturer (find them on the web, there's always a "tech support" email or phone number). They'll point you in the right direction and they're USUALLY happy to help. ( I even got ORIGINAL decals for my Falcon for FREE from Goldberg just because they were probably SHOCKED to see one still flying after 30 years!)

OzMo

My Feedback: (3)

Hi,
I think there is more than one good answer or approach to this question. One good method is to make a hatch or door or panel that has the servo fastened to it on the inside. The servo arm sticks out and the clevis and pushrod are external. The SIG Four Star Sixty
uses this technique. A slightly longer servo arm may be helpful.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Answer Kens question!! If it's something you just don't want to do I can take some photos of A couple of different mounting types. What plane is this?? Is it an ARF or A kit?? Was it designed for the two servos or just one?? How thick is the wing?? Is it A 40 size or A 40%?? Information is A big help.

chrisp32

hi it is on a plane called the diablo top it is from the czech republic and it has no instruction it is a 40 ish size plane and i quess is supposed to have one servoe per wing as the the attach to the sides of the plane the wings look like those on an edge 540 or extra 330 kinda thing wear the rear draws forward

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

It really doesn't matter whether the servo itself is mounted square to the wing chord or the aileron hinge line. What will matter is where you attach the aileron control horn. If you attach the horn such that the connector between the servo and the hinge line is not perpendicular, you can introduce mechanical aileron differential, which can affect performance. I normally set them up so the control rod is perpendicular to the hinge line. The next effect is where the servo neutral position is. You can normally rotate the servo arm on the servo to put it in position that the neutral position is perpendicular to the hinge line. Again, you can adjust this alignment to provide any aileron differential you may desire.

I normally mount my servos such that they are aligned with the wing chord simply because its easier to cut at fit the servo mounting at 90 degrees.

Bottom line - do what works for you.

Brad

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

OK, I took A shot of A plane I'm starting to recover, this should sort of give you some ideas. The hatch is an easy way to mount the servos, how you mount the hatch is up to you, I use corner gussets, beams and anything I can think of, all depends on the plane and how much room I have to work with. First shots are the normal old hatch with beam mounting. There is rib cap stock around the hatch so I have something for the covering to go onto. Very easy way to do it. The big red wing is an ARF, I haven't A clue as to who made it. The servos are mounted inside the wing straight down/in and also an easy way to do things. There are just two hard points glued/epoxy in the wing for the servo to mount into fore and aft. The fuse you see is another easy way to mount servos on A sheeted surface. This is A Giant Scale plane that the ARF people decided only needed one servo in the fuse to operate the two giant elevators with A stick and two wires to operate each side?? I just cut out the fuse, added some ply on the inside of the holes for the screws and mounted A servo on each side. I have done stuff like this on wings too. Just let your mnd wander A little and you will come up with something. When I set up the plane OZ is showing you it was designed for two wing servos but it was almost the same as the first two photos I'm posting. As I recall the servo hatch just mounted A little different and I did use after market servo arms on it too, sometimes you just have to use them. SIG gives you the hatch but you have to epoxy in the mounting rails for the servo size you are going to use. Hope this helps some.

chrisp32

thank you for the info, so it doesnt matter how the servo is mounted as long a the linkage is perpindicular to the hinge line and the control horn is perpindicular to the lincage ( parilel to the hinge line ) correct thank you for the help

Campgems

I, personally, like to keep the servo arm and the control horn on the same plane, in alignment, equal length and a line between them at 90 degrees to the hinge line. That provides the cleanest transition of power from the servo to the control surface. Do the best you can to make the movement of the control surface mimic the movement of the servo.

Don

TedMo

Nothing really wrong with what you did Spacemonkey. Except you should have located the servos much further out on span of wing. Perhaps about 1/2 way.A bit more work, you would have had cut a tunnel through foam and get extension wires for servos. Cutting tunnel is described in another post.