Any ideas on how to start the glow plug on a os 25??

I'm assuming you mean how to power up the plug to start the engine...

The plug heats on about 1-1/2 volts... for O.S. engines, it will glow orange at the proper temperature. The plug can be connected to a power panel (which is a thing that manages power for all your field needs) or to a 1-1/2 volt dry cell with a lead and a glow plug clip, or it can be powered with a self-contained battery unit that includes a connector and perches right on top of the plug.

If the engine doesn't seem to fire, you can check the plug by watching the current draw on a power panel (there should probably be an Amp and a half or so going through it if I remember right) or by removing the plug and looking for the orange glow when it's connected to power. If the element glows red, then it is too cool, and if it's very bright or almost yellow, then it's too hot... if it doesn't glow then you've got a bad connection, a bad power source, and/or a bad plug.

There's not that much more you'd need to know about the glow plug initially, but there is a good bit more to know about starting and running an engine. Is that what you needed to know? Is anybody able to help you get the engine running? It can be frustrating until you get to know the individual engine upclose and personal.

Which O.S. .25? SF, FP, FX?... (several others...) And what problems are you having with it?

If possible, get in touch with some experienced modelers, who can help you learn safe starting proceedures. It'll save you a lot of cuts on yor fngers. (maybe save you from losing a finger...) It'll also help you to operate the engine efficiently and to get the best operating life you can from it. 9which can be over 20 years... I've got a .25 SF that's close to 20 years old now, and still running almost like new.)

It is the os 25la blue. I have a clip off and old cox.049 and was wondering what size/type of battery I needed.
Thanks for the help.

I think you've got the wrong 'glow igniter'. The little cox engines, the whole head is teh plug, whereas these 'larger' engines have a separate plug that screws into the cylinder head. If I remeber correctly, the cox clip is just that; a two part clip that slips on the little nub at the top, and grabs teh 'head' a little further down, in between the cooling fins.

If that's the case, you'll need to get yourself a 'glow igniter. It's a little tube type thing that pushes on the actual glow plug itself. they come in two styles: one that plugs into your control panel, and teh other is a self contained unit, with a (usually) recharcheable battery. Typically, you need only about 1.5 volts.


Head out the the local feild, and ask to borrow/see one.

Yo CAN use the Cox glow plug clip... I don't recommend it. That's about the most inconvenient glow plug clip short of using 2 aligator clips.

There's quite a range of batteris that will work. Anything from a single C cell alkaline to one of th appx 9 inch tall 3 inch dia "telephone" (old hand crank-ringer phones used 2 of them) dry cells will work. The C cell alkaline will give about 10 engine starts. (If the engine is not hard to start...)

What I recommend is to get one of th C size NiCd "Glow Ignitor" kits which includes a charger. These can hold enogh power to start the engine a bunch of times. (whcn flying a LOT I charge mine once a month) Its a bit expensive initially, but it'll save n the long run vs disposable bateries. Also, the glow ignitor doesn't have wires to get caught in the prop while you are starting the engine.

You REALLY do need to contact a local modeler and get help.... Not even knoing what battery to use for starting the engines, you don't know enough to safely start th engine an you won't know how to adjust it.

Thanks guys.

There is no local modelers that I know of. I bought a starter kit for my .049 a few years ago, but the battery died. And was wondering if I could use another type of battery or if there was another method for starting it.

Next time I go to the hobby shop I will see if they have anything.

Thanks again

Where do you live? Some of us who are more familiar with the search for R/C clubs may be able to help you connect with one...

And, of course, you're already headed to the best source of such info -- the hobby shop should know about any clubs or rabid independant R/C operators in the area. One thing I have found on that, tough, even at a good hobby shop, I've sometimes talked with somebody other than a guy who knows the R/C flying community, so if the shop you use serves a variety of interests, it may be good to follow any negative response up with a conversation with a different person.

The blue enamel on the engine might be preventing the proper contact to finish the 'loop' [circuit]..

I am in gravenhurst ontaio Canada.
The problem with the hobby shop is it's about an hour away and I am the only one(that I know of) from my area who goes down there.
They deal mostly with aircraft. They have a huge selection, but they serve their local area and south.

I might never get into the air:-)

"WOGS"
blue enamel? Its anodized blue, and wont affect the current
d

Hmm, could've sworn it was coated, it dosen't look 'normal' for anodizing, more shiny than anything..

My mistake!

Where's Gravehurst? Are we talking north, like North bay? Sioux Lookout? Espanola?

Gravenhurst is about an hour and a half north of Toronto.

I think the coating on the blue LAs is a powered coating, not anodize. However, anodize is non-conducting as well.

RCPAUL

You are better off with a pair of aligator clip test leads than the Cox connector when dealing with a non-Cox engine. One clip goes to the post on the glow head, and its wire leads to the + post on the battery. The other lead goes to an engine mounting lug, or any un-painted metal part on the engine. (the mountng screw will naturally ground through the anodized coating 90% of the time.. so should be no problem) You can even connect the clip to the exhaust outlet opening if no other pont is convenient.

Radio Shack sells the test leads n packs of 6 dual ended leads, appx 2 ft per wire.

There are several 1.5 V batteries which will work... there's a square cell that looks like the 6 V lantern battery, but is 1.5 v. There's the tall round cell... you can place a pair of C or D cells in parallel (connect + to + and - to - Cox had a starting kit that used this methd.) Anything that gets 1.5 V and holds it under the load of the glow plug is fine.

I'll assume you had some success with the Cox engines...

The larger engine does not have a spring starter, so you need to learn the safe starting method... r get an electric starter to keep your fingers out of the prop. The larger engines tend to start easier than the Cox engines. (YEA!) But they break your fingers instead of just whacking them and making the finger sting for a while. (The .25 CAN cut your fingers OFF!)

Make sure no wires will get in the prop whaile you are starting the engine. The prop can cut the wire and send a clip or cnnector off almost like a bullet.

Follow the engine instructions for setting it up. (needle setting, mounting...) With glow DISCONNECTED, fill the fuel tank, double check all fuel line connections. Open the carb with the transmitter. Cover the intake with your thumb and rotate the prop forard until you see fuel get to the carb, then 3 more turns of the engine. (glow still off. It can kick back and cut you BADLY if golw is on at ths point) Reduce throttle to 1/3 open. Now connect the glow power, and apply the starter to the engine. It should start right up. Needle adjustment is very similar to the Cox.. but you have to have the carb at full throttl wen adjusting the main needle. Ignore the idle needle for the first couple of tanks of fuel. (Its an air bleed carb and idle won't be too far off as it shipped from the factory.)

Hand method is similar to above, but requires in person demonstration to show how to do it SAFELY.