Well, seeing as how tomorrow is going to be the only nice day we have had in a month, I should be able to get out to the field tomorrow, I need to break in my FX 61 though.

However, with the holiday weekend, all the instructors are gone. I do not intend to fly, just want to break the engine in, by myself. But I need a decent and comprehensive set of directions. I read the manual, and I read my flight manual, but they somewhat conflict and are not very comprehensive. I think they were written at an intermediate versus beginner level.

So, is this something I can do by myself?

Is or can someone give me a comprehensive set of directions?

dont go to the feild a start the engine by youself (because you mite hurt your self with no one around ) .....so bring someone any one and run a gallon of fule through it. I dont know too much about the engine so someone els can give you a better brekin instuctions.

Ideally it should be run in lightly loaded at full throttle and with the mixture set so it's just barely leaner than the point it switches from 4 stroking to clean 2 stroking (in other words, as rich as it can be but still 2 stroking). An 11x6 prop would be fine for light loading on your 61 and make sure the fuel has some castor in it.

The trick with the mixture is that what the manual says (maybe 1 1/2 turns open) is only a guide. You're far more likely to cause damage running lean than rich so open the needle to maybe 2 1/2 or 3 turns. Then open the throttle (don't hook up the plug just yet) and block the carb with a finger. Turn the prop over about 3 times to draw fuel from the tank and prime the engine. Flick the prop quickly and see if it starts to sound slightly "wet". If it does, then close the throttle until there's maybe a 1/8" gap at the widest point down the barrel and connect the plug.

This next bit you can either do or not, depending how you feel about it. Grasp the prop firmly and turn it moderately quickly over compression and if you feel a bump then it's ready to go (the bump is combustion of some of the mixture inside). Now use the starter and it should fire up quickly. Don't rush, but put the starter safely aside and then open the throttle completely. Chances are it'll be running rich in a 4 stroke so go behind the prop and slowly start winding the needle in until it just makes that clean high pitched 2 stroke sound. That's the setting you need for the running in. If it goes straight into 2 stroking then wind the needle out until you hear the note change to the duller roar of 4 stroking then back in to that 2 stroke. Disconnect the power from the plug and let it run for a minute or so then shut it down to let it cool. It doesn't need to get icy cold, warm is fine.

Restart it (you most likely won't need to prime it this time) at a low throttle and then go immediately back to full throttle. Run out a full tank with these short runs then give a couple of tanks and going a click or two leaner each tank. The thing to avoid is going lean at any time so to make sure you're not getting near the peak setting just give the fuel line a quick pinch and listen for a rev rise. If the revs rise then you're still a little rich which is good. If the revs don't rise then open the needle a bit. Don't listen for a barely noticeable rise, you want a definite rise in revs when you pinch the line.

Now sit back and wait for 129 more different ways to do it

Just follow the directions that OS supplies with the engine.

Just open the high end needle up a couple turns and start it up.
Then go wide open and slowly close it until you get the high rpm peak. The open it back up a bit (maybe 1/4 turn) until the engine sounds rich and looks for a nice smoke trail out your exhaust and run it like that for a tank or two.
I have always broke my engines in on the plane and in the air. Test stands are nice but a waste of time.

Stick Jammer, Thanks for the reply but as my original post stated, I have read the instructions supplied with the engine, as well as my RC Flight Manual, and the culmination of both did not give me a clear picture, as I have never done it, seen it or been exposed to proper instruction on the process.

esanger,
Downunder gave you good advice. I'd point out one thing though. ABC engines have a different break in routine than non-ABC.

Is the 61FX an ABC engine? If its not, I'd run the first couple of tanks between "4 cycling" and "2 cycling" (rich and lean settings). You can tell the difference by the sound of the engine. 2 cycling (the way the engine is designed to run once broken in) sounds like a fairly high pitched whine at full throttle. 4 Cycling on the other hand, sounds like the engine is skipping. Kind of a "blubbering" sound (at full throttle).

When 4 cycling, combustion of fuel is only happening on every other stroke. The non firing cycle provides a lot of extra raw fuel and oil which keeps the engine from getting too hot and causing excessive wear to the piston, ring and sleeve.

The design of ABC engines however, require a hotter break in. So ABC engines should be broken in with a series of strictly 2 cycle runs. You want the engine to remain slightly on the hot side while running, then allow for a cooling off period every few minutes.

By the way. Turning the needle valve "in" or clockwise will lean the fuel mixture. While turning it "out" or counterclockwise will richen the mixture.

I'd also recommend having someone at the field. It's hard packing stuff up and driving yourself to the hospital with a wide, bleeding gash across a finger or your hand. (Ask me how I know this.)
Dennis-

Good one! Well, I have sent out emails this morning to see if anyone is going to be there. The .61 is an ABC engine, OS phased out the Ringed engines with the FX series.

Please, tell us about your hospital visit!!! I am interested to know.

Those manuals are nice but can be confusing. Add to it everybody has their own way and they are right, to include myself. Go with what works for you. There is also some fine print in those manuals most overlook. I took them to heart a few years ago and I can perfectly tune any of these two strokes. These methods sound like "wives tales" but are actually in print.

Well, I have read the manual several times, what fine print are you speaking of? Hopefully it is something I have not overlooked, as you say!! But yes, they are confusing, and I also think that depending upon the manufacturer, the break in process changes.

I also am just trying to start my OS 61FX for the first time. It started once and ran for about 20 seconds but when I tried to start it again it has flooded every time. I have followed the procedure for clearing the engine out by removing the glow plug and closing the needle valve then using the starter to turn it over. But I have been unable to refire the engine since and am very frustrated does anybody have any suggestions I can't find any advice in the manual.
Thanks Ron

Ron,
It sounds like your engine is much too rich. You can try turning the needle valve in about one full turn to start it, but you may need to trun it back out some once started.

Is this engine mounted inverted? If so, that could also be the source of your problem. find a way of holding it upside down (so the engine is upright) and try starting it that way.

Esanger,
In my case I did not make a trip to the hospital, only went home. I was at the field by myself, and decided to fly anyway. Which in itself isn't a good idea. Well, my engine started and ran fine as usual, but when preparing for the second flight I got complacent. Instead of walking around the engine to remove the glow driver, I reached right hrough the prop.

I was lucky. The prop just barely caught my thumb, but it split the thumbnail lengthwise, right down the middle. MAN did it hurt! And it bled like the devil. I used paper towels and electrical tape to cover it, but by the time I could get everything tossed into the car and get started home, there was blood all over everything.

I soaked it in warm water and antiseptic stuff, then bandaged it tightly once home. It took a few days before I was able to use it, and a few months for a new nail to grow in.
Dennis-

Dennis,

I just got back in town after leaving my question and I am going to give your suggestion a try. I will advise for everyone else if this fixes the problem. Thanks again for the input.

Ron

I have several OS 46FX motors which should be very similar. If the motor won't run and keeps on flooding, the low speed (idle) mixture may be set too rich. The factory seems to always set this on the "very rich" side which is good for break-in but sometimes it is just too much. The adjustment screw is located at the end of the throttle shaft on the oposite side from the throttle lever. You actually have to look into the end of the shaft to see it. Get a jewelers screwdriver and try turning it in (to the right) about 1/8 of a turn and try again. If it still won't run and floods then go to 1/4 turn. This is a very sensitive adjustment so be careful. It would be best to get someone experienced to do it for you if possible. Once the motor starts this screw will probably have to be adjusted further or the motor will stumble and/or want to quit when you try to go to full throttle.

The good news is that the OS FX non-ringed motors need very little break-in. I run one tank at a very rich setting, alternating between 2 and 4-cycle operation per the manual. Then set the mixtures a little rich and the motor should be ready to fly. (This isn't true for other motors, as I recently found out with a new Saito).

Its been awhile but here it goes.

Turned out my starting problem was a weak battery in my glow plug igniter. once I replaced it she started right up but I experienced two problems right away. Fuel started coming out of every possible seam including the front shaft. I am sure that the muffler was not tight enough but didn't know that it needed to be sooooo tight. 1st question is... is this normal especially the fuel coming out the front shaft ?

2nd thing was the prop nut inside the spinner came loose allowing the engine to turn without spinning the prop (my fault again for not having it tight enough) but the problem is the spinner bolt is tight and I have nothing to grip short of the piece that the prop goes against and I am afraid to use pliers for fear of bending it out of shape. Any suggestions ?

Thanks Ron

Try removing the glow plug and then packing the top of the piston with string. Make sure you pack enough string but leave an end sticking out so you can remove it.
This should allow you to remove the spinner screw without the need to resorting to vicegrips.

As far as fuel leaking out from all the seams trying running the engine again to get it operating at normal temperature the leaks may disappear.