I have used the regulators and gave up on them when I started using two batteries or the bigger Sub-C battery. As CG mentioned, it was just another item that could go wrong. I still don't use the Lipo batteries but Joe brought up A good point, if I did use them I would go back to the regulator. Servo twitch even happens with A 4.8 battery with A full charge but for me it was always my JR servos that did it. Just in the last year I read something that brought that up about the JR servos. It never caused any problems and after the first flight they quit doing it. These were/are {still using them} there high end analogs but I read that the digitals did it too?? Take it for what it's worth, just something I read, most of my high end servos are HTs and I haven't gotten any jitter with them, just my JRs.

Good point - regulators are definitely for more advanced systems, and not so much for basic sport flying.

I've now got a set of competition planes with 6 digital high torque servos in each and am just switching over to a regulated system (with integrated switches, reducing connections).

thanks guys for the info about all of this, although ive never had any problems its almost silly not to have 2 switches and batteries!

The fact that you must charge an Nixx batteries seperately is very important. Never try to charge NiCad or NiMh in parallel if you want them to both be properly charged. I agree with CGretired, I have never had a receiver/servo glitch caused by using 5 cell batteries (I use both Futaba and Hitec) when they were fully charged. I also fully endorse using the Voltwatch, properly monitored it beats a loaded voltmeter in all aspects as well as giving you warnings of any high impedance paths between the receiver and batteries such as those caused by to small a gage wire, poor switch contacts or high impedance solder joints; almost as good as having a scope on the power system.

I sometimes use the voltwatch on my smaller planes but there is A unit called the GEM 2000 that can even tell you more about what your plane is doing just by knowing what that blinking light is telling you. I use them in my more treasured planes. I think it is still being made?? I had A few in my shop and haven't run out of them yet. Something I haven't seen brought up is the make of the switches. I never use those cute little switches that come with your radio or flight pack, I had one go bad on me. I changed over to using the heavy duty JR switch with the charge jack and 16aug wires. On my 60 size and under planes I still only use one battery and switch and have never had one of these fail. I'm still using some 4.8 volt batteries in them but nothing under 1000mah. A lot of what I do still depends on the plane itself. No reason for over kill all the time.

One of the local club members lost a very nice jet last year which he eventually determined was caused by a faulty regulator. His solution? Go back to Nicad or NiMh batteries. They do a more good enough job for the application and eliminate a potential failure point.